ATX to MTX Swap [Archive]

ZX2Fast

04-17-2008, 03:45 PM

This is the original text from 2005. If you find something that needs an update, please let me know. I'm really glad I saved this one, I didn't want to type all of that out again.

I want to make it clear. If you use this as a guide, for parts or step-by-step, for any profit in any manner then I expect payment. I put a lot of time and effort into getting this done. I can't have everyone else going around making money off my labor. So, if you did use this then I expect 10% of your profit. If you use this for your personal use, then I expect nothing in return. That is, after all, why I wrote this. So the average tuner that doesn't have a lot of cash can do this swap without taking it to someone and spending all that money.

**Note, I do offer to perform this swap for a resonable fee. Contact me for more info.

Steps with an '*' next to them are used only if you plan to remove the engine for this swap. Some people plan to do many other mods at the same time that would be easier to do with the engine out.

Where to start? Well, make sure you have all of your parts before you get started. Don’t get it halfway done and then have to wait for someone to ship you a part. You won’t like the waiting. Here is a rundown of the parts list you will need. If you can find a wrecked ZX2 MTX with a good tranny for $500 or so, buy that. You will also need to have the A/C system emptied before you start this swap.

PARTS
Shifter housing (the shifter sits inside of it and connects to the tranny)
Shifter rod (connects the shifter to the tranny)
http://a771.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/112/l_103ea4b2590ee415c605b4f2b8780e8a.jpg
Shifter inserts (small plastic inserts in the bottom of the shifter, without them, the shifter will be sloppy. Also, at the other end of the shift rod where it meets the tranny)
Shifter retaining clip (holds the shifter into the housing from the top)
Shift boot
Shift boot hold down (plastic peice that bolts to the bottom of the console to hold the boot in place)
http://a685.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/14/l_36235b5b36e11944ac50d7bf7fa92a6c.jpg
Shift knob
MTX Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
MTX PCM (you can find them on Ebay cheap, make sure the code you get is chippable by emailing a chip dealer and give them the code. This only applies if you plan to chip it.)
Brake and clutch pedal assembly (they are both on the same bracket)
Transmission (find one with the lowest mileage possible.)
Transmission-to-engine block spacer (ATX has the same spacer as the MTX, but the MTX has one additional spacer)
http://a94.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/93/l_7ae8caca8c733d59615e11df2828ea15.jpg
Front and rear tranny mounts (these may come with the tranny)
Tranny top mount (the very top part on the ATX is the same, but there is a lower part on the MTX that is needed)
Brake master cylinder from MTX
http://a197.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/23/l_0375e98407f8124f7c5c04c080cac6ec.jpg
Clutch master cylinder (attached to the brake master cylinder by hose)
http://a395.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/69/l_12c50e035978351b587975c9804bcbe2.jpg
Clutch slave cylinder (goes on top of the tranny)
http://a720.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/69/l_dcbfdb2e168abe6d3c6c8c6e55db9957.jpg
Clutch release lever (should still be in the tranny, the clutch slave cylinder pushes this to release the clutch pressure, it may be installed on the transmission already)
http://a213.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/98/l_ca4832cb960731fbab2402f42578ce4c.jpg
Clutch kit with throw-out bearing and pilot bearing (most kits come with both bearings)
http://a609.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/66/l_1f62d433450bd8fa556903d17c01a208.jpg
MTX flywheel (if you buy a used one, be sure to have it resurfaced)
MTX crank position sensor with housing (the sensors are the same, but the housing is different, the picture has the part number of the housing if you need to order it from Ford)
http://a870.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/5/l_7f64f44082323f27e35e817340e663f5.jpg
Inner half-shaft for passenger axle (this is the part with the bracket)
http://a288.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/20/l_3136d1d02baabbccb26f75c3ddf546ef.jpg
Both axles
http://a936.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/87/l_c3e1fd07e269edf4a97516909fd59297.jpg
Axle nuts
Bolts for the passenger axle bracket (they are the same thread pitch as the tranny-to-block bolts, but they need to be about ½” shorter)
If you have more pictures please share them.

TOOLS
You need a good set of assorted tools. Sockets are your friend. All these bolts are metric so a good ½" and 3/8" drive socket set is a good idea. A ½" drive breaker bar comes in handy. A cheater bar can be your friend to. This will be much less of a hassle if you have a good impact gun. You need a torque wrench with foot pound readings to. You’ll be doing a bit of rewiring to, so some wire strippers and tape will be needed. Find or borrow a cherry picker (engine lift) This can be done without one, but much easier with one. A good floor jack and some jack stands will be needed.

GETTING STARTED
A garage will make this easier. At the very least a concrete surface.
*1 Start by removing the hood
2 Remove the front wheels and un-stake the nut. You can see a dent in the outside edge of the nut. It goes into a groove on the axle, you won’t be able to remove it with this dent. Knock the center cap out of the wheels and put them back on the car. You only have to put two lug nuts back on, you’ll be taking the wheels back off soon. Put the car back on the ground.
3 Use the breaker bar and a 32mm socket to remove the axle nuts. This is where a cheater bar comes in handy. If you have air tools, this would be a good use for them.
4 Now jack the car back up to remove the axles from the spindles. I just undo the spindle from the strut and pull the axles out that way. It helps to remove the clip that holds the brake hose to the strut, this gives you more room to work with.
http://a363.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/52/l_5d3ab13e2adbf0707fa4384555eb37f2.jpg
The spindle is held to the strut by two bolts and nuts. After you remove the axle from the spindle, put the bolts back in and finger tighten the nuts. You won’t need to tighten the bolts for the spindle to strut because you will have to remove them again to install the new axles. Put the wheels on and put the car back on the ground.
5 Remove the battery and battery tray. The tray is held in place by four 10mm bolts.
*6 The negative battery cable is also bolted down with a 8mm bolt, remove this.
7 Remove the cooling fan, three 10mm bolts and one electrical connector.
*8 Drain the radiator coolant, there is a drain cock on the bottom driver side of the radiator.
9 Disconnect the tranny cooler lines from the radiator.
10 Remove those lines from the tranny.
*11 Remove the radiator, There is one hose up top driver side and two on the lower passenger side. They are held there with spring-loaded clamps you can squeeze together with pliers. You will also have to remove the upper brackets held in place with two 10mm nuts/bolts each. Remove the lower radiator hoses from the block to. It will be easier to remove the engine with this out of the way. The small lower hose also connects to the frame with two 10mm bolts.
12 Disconnect the O2 sensors, the rear one you will have to remove the VSS sensor bracket, one 10mm bolt. Or, you can just pull the plastic clip off, but I left mine on so it would have a place to connect.
*13 Disconnect the power steering pressure line, it is above where the front O2 sensor connector is. You can loosen it up then remove the three bolts that hold the hose down and pull it apart.
*14 Remove the power steering reservoir hose from the pump.
*15 On the intake side of the engine, remove the vacuum lines from the intake manifold. I think there are three of them. Two have squeeze clips on it, one just pulls off.
*16 Disconnect the two wire harness connectors by the throttle body.
*17 Remove the heater core hoses. They are by the firewall and have those spring loaded clips like the radiator hoses.
*18 Remove the throttle cables.
19 Remove the tranny shift cable from the top of the tranny, just one nut holds it on.
20 Disconnect all the electrical connectors from the tranny.
*21 Unbolt the fuse box (two nuts) and remove all the electrical connectors from the bottom that do not run into the engine harness. Some of the wires run along the frame and some run towards the engine. The entire fuse box and cables will come out with the drive train.
*22 Undo the electrical connector from the A/C compressor, it might also have a zip-tie holding it to the compressor housing. Also undo the bolt that holds the compressor hose on. It is a long bolt and will take some time to remove.
23 Remove the axles. You might not be able to pry them out. I just pulled them apart at the boots as close to the tranny as possible.
24 Remove the oil dipstick, there is one 8mm bolt holding it to the head. It will just pull out, might require some wiggle pulls to get it out.
25 Remove the driver-to-passenger side cross-member.
26 Unbolt the cat-back exhaust.
27 Remove the heat-shield from the exhaust manni. You don't have to, but it might be easier to see what you are doing.
28 Unbolt the cat converter, there are two nuts that you will have to reach from the bottom.
29 There should also be two bolts holding the cat to a bracket mounted to the tranny. Remove the cat from the car.
**** AT THIS POINT THE ONLY THING KEEPING THE DRIVE TRAIN IN THE CAR ARE THE FOUR MOUNTS. There should not be any wires or hoses between the drive train and frame of the car. Do another look around before proceeding.
30 Remove the four nuts from the two lower tranny mounts.
31 Hook the engine hoist up to the engine and jack it up until you see it put just a little pressure on it. If you are not removing the engine, put a jack with a block of wood or thick book under the oil pan. Jack it up just enough to support the engine when you take the cross-member down.

ZX2Fast

04-17-2008, 03:46 PM

32 Remove the bolts holding the driver side mount to the frame.
Remove the three nuts on the top of that mount to.
33 Remove the nut from the passenger side top mount. Then remove
the three nuts from the top of it. This may require some fancy hoist
work and pry-bar action on the loose driver top mount, but remove the
entire mount that is now loose.
*34 Jack the engine up until the front mount pops out of the
cross-member, then remove the front tranny mount from the tranny.
*35 The rear mount likes to wedge and stick in the cross-member.
You might be able to get under the car and remove the entire front to
back cross-member now. The A/C compressor doesn’t like to clear the
front of the frame if you don’t watch it. The intake manni also catches
on the EVAP canister.
*36 Now that we have the engine out, time to remove the tranny. Remove the starter bolts, there are three. Remove the starter from the wire harness. You can leave it on if you tie it to the intake manni with some wire just so it doesn't get in the way or hang from the wires.
37 Remove the rest of the tranny bolts.
38 You may have to use a pry bar to get the tranny broken free of the block. The ATX is heavy so have a helper. It may be helpful to perform step 39 first.
39 Remove the torque converter. There are four nuts holding it on. I used vice-grips to hold the flex-plate still while I remove the nuts.
40 Remove the flex-plate by removing the bolts that hold it to the crank. Leave the vice-grips so the flex-plate won’t turn while you loosen the bolts.
41 Remove the CPS sensor housing. On the flywheel side there is a single bolt holding it in. Remove that bolt and take the housing and sensor with it. The CPS sensor has one connector to.
http://a331.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/68/l_43055b6e05aaaf912530e34538046372.jpg
42 On to the inside of the car. Remove the center console and shifter knob.
43 Disconnect the electrical connectors that are on the ATX shifter housing.
44 Disconnect the shift cable from the shifter.
45 Disconnect the key lock cable.
46 Remove the housing with the shifter, there are four nuts/bolts holding it in.
47 Remove the PCM, a single bolt holds the connector to the PCM.
48 Cut the shifter cable at the firewall in the engine compartment. Pull the rest of it in from inside the car.
49 Pull the key-lock cable from under the PCM and behind the dash. It runs into the steering column. Leave it for later.
50 From inside the engine compartment, remove the nut on the plate where the clutch master cylinder will go.
51 Inside the car, remove the clip that holds the brake rod to the pedal.
52 Remove the nuts/bolts that hold the pedal assembly bracket to firewall. There are also two nuts that hold it to the dash brace.
53 Remove the electrical connectors from the brake pedal switches.
* IF YOU CAN FIND AN EASIER WAY TO REMOVE THE PEDAL ASSEMBLY WITHOUT REMOVING THE STEERING COLUMN, FEEL FREE TO DO IT THAT WAY. OTHERWISE, FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW.
54 Remove the steering column trim and the panel that is below the column.
55 Disconnect the electrical connectors that run between the steering column and the dash.
56 Remove the pinch bolt that holds the steering column to the steering rack input shaft.
57 There are two bolts holding the steering column to the dash. When you remove them the column will fall, so be prepared.
58 Remove the column from the car, the pedal assembly will come with it, now you can take that key-lock cable off. You will need a zip-tie to hold that actuator open so you can remove the key. Make sure you have the actuator open by inserting the key and testing that you can turn the key and then remove it in the off position.
59Remove the ATX brake master cylinder.
HERE WE GO WITH INSTALLING THE MTX PARTS
1 Install the MTX brake master cylinder.
2 Wire up the reverse lights, locate the connector that you pulled from the gear selection switch, Ford calls it the Transmission Range Sensor, I call it the Park Neutral switch. It was attatched to the top of the ATX and had a large electrical connector. On your MTX there is a switch, on the front, that has wires on it. One is red/green, the other is black/yellow. On your ATX wire harness you will cut two wires. One is red/green, the other is black/white. Connect them like so, red to red, black to black. These are the only wires you will have to cut for the reverse lights. I added four inches of wire to mine so I would have room for my rear O2 sensor harness to reach.
http://a82.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/62/l_613769e1508e2847dede54b804224a31.jpg
3 To the best of my knowledge, you do not need to wire the neutral switch that is on the rear of the MTX tranny, it has two green wires on it. For reasons that could happen later, do not cut them to short to use later. Tape them out of the way.
4 In the same wire harness for the reverse lights there will be a thick red and a thick black/red wire. Cut these two wires and splice them together really good. The car will not start if you do not wire them together.
5 Install the clutch master cylinder.
6 Install the pedal assembly, make sure to put that pin back in the brake bracket and the rod on the clutch pedal will go inside the hole in the clutch master cylinder.
7 Remove the start switch loop from the connector and hook that connector into the switch on the clutch pedal. There is one more connector that goes on the clutch switch pedal, it is for the cruise control.
8 Install the steering column.
9 Install the trim you removed to take the steering column out.
10 Install the shifter housing.
11 Install the shifter, be sure to put the spacers in the shifter and the retaining clip.
12 Install the MTX PCM..
13 Install the shifter boot on the console and install the console, put the shift knob on.
14 Put the shifter rod on the shifter, there should be a shoulder bolt that goes through shifter and rod.
15 Put the MTX CPS sensor housing in the engine block. Hook up that electrical connector.
16 Install the MTX flywheel. The flywheel will only bolt up one way. The holes are off-center so you can’t install it wrong. Put some medium strength Loc-tite on the flywheel bolts. They are tightend in a criss-cross pattern to about 80 ft-lbs.
17 Install the pilot bearing. I used a deep-well socket just larger then the diameter of the bearing, I think I used a 14mm socket.
http://a295.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/91/l_6444b723f17b2681090cd43fa5a702be.jpg
http://a992.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/106/l_4bf6f434444ce6d54e65e3684db9f62f.jpg
18 Install the clutch. Be sure to use the clutch alignment tool. Make sure you install the clutch disc the correct way. It should be labeled what side faces the flywheel or pressure plate. Put the pressure plate on the pins and put the bolts in. Tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern to spec. I can't recall it now so look in your Haynes manual.
19 Put the MTX tranny-to-block spacer on now.
20 Make sure your tranny is ready to go in. Your throw out bearing is in and seated good. The lever isn’t binding on anything and the boot is seated good. Spray the clutch and flywheel down with some brake parts cleaner to get your greasy handy work off it and lets put this tranny on.
21 Put the tranny on, make sure the input shaft lines up with the hole in the clutch. There are two dowel pins. Be sure to line them up. It will save you a lot of work. Pick the tranny up and guide it in by the tail. Wiggle it and push by the tail after the input shaft is clear of the clutch fingers. It should slide easily into the pilot bearing. It works better if you can keep the engine from swinging.
22 Put all the tranny bolts in, make sure not to confuse them with the starter bolts. Make sure that bracket the cat bolts to goes back on the tranny. It goes on the bottom and two of the tranny bolts hold it on.
23 If it is not already on, install the clutch slave cylinder.
24 If it is not already on, install the rear tranny mount.
25 Install the starter and put the wires back on it.
*26 There is really no easy way to put this back in the car. I removed the lower cross-member the tranny sits on. I lowered the engine just lower then it sits in the car. Then I installed the top mount bolt. Then in installed the rear mount. Now I put the cross-member on the rear mount and then jacked the engine up and put the bolts in the rear of the cross-member. I jacked it up a bit more and installed the bolts in the front of the cross-member. Now the front tranny mount is sitting on the cross-member (the engine balancer I had sucked) I put the top tranny mount on the studs and then hammered the front tranny mount into the holes. TA DA.
27 Tighten up all the mount bolts.
28 Now this is back in the car. Hook the clutch master cylinder up to the clutch slave cylinder.

mellowness65

04-17-2008, 03:49 PM

29 The rest of the installation is the reverse of removal with these exceptions:
The rubber seals on the tranny were the axles go in and the rubber seals on the spindles where the axles go in, coat them with a thin film of high temp axle grease before you put the axles in to help keep the seals from drying out. When you install the passenger axle, you might have to remove the oil filter, make sure you replace that .5 quart of oil, you might also have to move that bastard lower coolant hose to get that one bolt in, it is 8mm holding that hose on. Don’t forget to stake down the new axle nuts. Fill the tranny through the VSS hole. It holds 3.5 quarts of fluid. Bleed the brake system before you bleed the clutch. Do not install the cooling fan until you have bled the clutch. Start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder. Bleed until you get air, trust me, its there. Do not let the brake fluid get under the minimum mark, you will have to start over. When pouring in new coolant, be sure to leave the cap off and start the engine, let it run and get hot so the thermostat will open and suck in the coolant and you can pour more in.

I hope this helped you out a bit. If you have any questions then contact me and I'll help the best I can.
-ZX2Fast
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I don't know where I got this from, obviously on the old site though.

I had to add the last step to your post.

ZX2guy19

04-17-2008, 10:33 PM

Seriously, some of you guys are fricken genius's. (Brad, John, Mike, Mech)

ZX2Fast

04-18-2008, 05:30 AM

FiReTRuCK_ZX2

04-19-2008, 08:41 PM

looking good, don't see anything yet that needs changed.

ZX2Fast

04-20-2008, 02:23 PM

I have more pictures to add. I just need time to do it.

ZX2Fast

04-21-2008, 03:49 AM

I've added all the pictures I have.

catch23.5

06-15-2008, 06:24 PM

this feels like newb question but does anyone have prices of the swap and the parts ,i just wanted to see if im getting jipped at the yard and yes im cheap,and i would like to thank you for the write up on the swap it is very very good, and i only paid 100 dallers for the tranny and it had 60,000 km ,but the rest im getting very slowly, forgive me if i put this in the wrong place, i looked but had no results

ZX2Fast

06-15-2008, 06:41 PM

catch23.5

06-20-2008, 08:21 PM

The price varies from free to $2000. It depends on how and where you get the parts. If you piece it together, expect to spend at least $1000. Many find it easier to buy a whole salvage ZX2 and swap all the parts over and then sell the rest to make back some of the money. How much is this yard charging you?

the yard charges 105 with tax for any mtx at the yard but you have to pull it yourself ,and i meen any engine out of any car and size or atx and mtx is 150 for engine and atx is 135 , man this is the best place i found for parts, i swapsed almost everything i can. interior and rsb ,disc brakes ,and soon mx3 ricaros ans also trany,since last post i got everything for the mtx swap and all this cost me 387 dallers, man ill post the addres or the website if anyone is interested in giving them a call pm me, but they are located in tilbury ontario canada, but its worth the saving
www.auto-recyclers.com and the phone number is (519) 687-2886 and ask for the you pull division if you are gona pull out the part yourself, or they can do it but for 20 dallers an hour/// you will help me out if you say that you seen the flyer at the windsor university ,becouse the boss asked me to help him advertise and if you seen this flyer than you already know

Aforce2008

07-09-2008, 07:35 AM

i really need to do this with my 98 but i dont think i am even capable of doing it myself :\

ZX2guy19

07-09-2008, 07:59 AM

Where are you located?

ZX2Fast

07-09-2008, 09:11 PM

i really need to do this with my 98 but i dont think i am even capable of doing it myself :\

**Note, I do offer to perform this swap for a resonable fee. Contact me for more info.

There are a few other members spread around the nation that may be willing to help you. But, be warned, not all of the know what they are doing or they just aren't physically capable of it. In fact, one of them has already posted in this thread.

Aforce2008

07-12-2008, 06:39 AM

yea well im either going to go all out and swap the tranny and also replace the rear struts..or im going to go find a manual zx2....which doesnt exist here for some reason.

and im located in fall river, MA

ZX2Fast

07-12-2008, 07:09 AM

A long way for me to travel. I live in Indiana. There are a few tuners up that way that should be able to help you. But, you probably won't need much help with this write-up. Many have used it with great sucess. If you can identify parts and you know how to use tools, you'll do fine. Anyway, if you do attempt this yourself and you want help, PM me your number and I'll call to walk you through it.

Aforce2008

07-13-2008, 08:27 PM

yea i have a friend who has a friend that might be able to do it for me..just im a little nervous as if something isnt done right then it will just be problems forever. If i do perform this swap though its going to be the first in a long line of mods.

if i dont do the swap then im going to save up and pick up a miata

terrydt

07-30-2008, 07:57 PM

hey im in the middle of this swap on my zx2 but we have ran into a brick wall we got the car all back together and when we went to start it up it would just roll over and wasnt getting any spark... i have power to my coil and all my plugs are good i was wondering if anyone had this same problem is it something to do with the wires????

ZX2Fast

07-30-2008, 10:41 PM

I bet you didn't change the crank sensor housing to the MTX housing. Read through the how-to, you'll spot it.

terrydt

07-31-2008, 03:13 AM

yeah i did change it we think its something to do with the wiring from the atx we followed your instructions step by step.

Slow98zx2

07-31-2008, 06:20 AM

check/change your fuel pump fuse.. mine done the same thing once and i timmed it twice b4 we noticed it wasn't getting any gas lol

terrydt

07-31-2008, 01:15 PM

pump is giving full prime, we have no fire right now

ZX2Fast

07-31-2008, 05:42 PM

Check for battery voltage at the center wire in the coil plug. You'll have to do it with the key on. Did you re-use the same crank sensor or did you use the crank sensor and housing from the donor car? Did you use a stock flywheel? Are you certain the sensor is plugged in all the way? Does the SES light up when you turn the key on?

terrydt

07-31-2008, 07:47 PM

we have power to the coil we used the crank sensor from the 5 speed car we also used the stock fly wheel.. there is no light when we turn the key.. the car will not start due to the problem of being no spark we are at a stand still and dont have a clue where to go from here. we need help we followed your instrustions all the way through went through them about 4 times checking each thing help me please

terrydt

07-31-2008, 07:48 PM

the car will roll over there is just no spark.. we were wondering if there is something in the steering coloum that would cause this problem???

ZX2Fast

07-31-2008, 10:44 PM

The sensor from the donor car could be bad. Try using the sensor you took out of the original car. Your SES (service engine soon) light should illuminate when you turn the key to the 'RUN' position. If it does not, then you need to find out if it is because of the bulb or because of the PCM. If that light is good but not coming on, you have a PCM or electrical issue. I'll have some time tomorrow evening to help you more if you want to call me. I'm not sure what your long distance rates will be across the border, though.

The only thing in the steering column that could cause this issue is the ignition switch. Check the 'ignition 1' wire for voltage when the key is in 'RUN'. This wire is under the dash on the steering column. It is the thick blue wire.

terrydt

08-01-2008, 07:56 PM

hey man we found one major problem we had the hosing for the crank sensor wrong we had the atx one in it so tonight we took the tranny back out and put it back up in and tomorrow we will no if that sloved the problem

ZX2Fast

08-02-2008, 12:10 AM

I told you that was the issue. lol

terrydt

08-02-2008, 03:32 PM

hey thanks a lot for your help i got my car on the road and it is working pretty good just have a couple of small things to work out i was told that i shouldnt spin that much cuz it is hard on the differentel is that true???

ZX2Fast

08-03-2008, 12:05 PM

I know it had to suck to need to remove the transmission again to change that damn housing.

Our stock diff only has two spider gears. They like to chatter and beat up the side gears when you get wheel spin. Wheel hop is very hard on them. Many of us have had luck with the Phantom Grip. You can get them for about $300 and I'm using one in my boosted ZX2. I don't have near as much torque steer and only minimal wheel hop under certain conditions.

ZX2guy19

08-03-2008, 12:16 PM

I got mine off ebay brand new for $269 shipped. Just search "Phantom Grip" and send a message to one of the sellers. They carry them, they just don't list them because it isn't exactly their most popular item.

terrydt

08-03-2008, 08:11 PM

i take it you have to take the tranny out to replace those

ZX2guy19

08-03-2008, 08:16 PM

Yep. You have to take the trans apart too. Like, the inside.

1newZX2

08-10-2008, 09:20 AM

dont forget to add that the * steps are only to be done when removeing the engine

MaddogZX2

09-19-2008, 02:06 PM

is it worth it to swap ATX for MTX

ZX2Fast

09-19-2008, 05:00 PM

That depends on your definition of 'worth it'. Do you want to get better gas milage and run the 1/4 mile nearly a second faster? Do you mind using your left foot when you drive? Do you have a constant need to hold a purse in your right hand? On that last one, if you do need to hold a purse, then don't do the swap.

Wogdog

09-19-2008, 05:55 PM

I will do probably when my ATX craps out. Fingers crossed, broke as hell now, no ifs because I do understand the ATX is the weak link.

Kage

09-24-2008, 09:24 AM

ZX2Fast, I'll be using this guide as soon as I get my hands on a wrecked 5spd with a good transmission. If I can get my friend's rear-ended ZX2, I'll do it this winter when I have time. I'll definitely be using this guide, but I may need to blow up your phone just from me freaking out. :P

I'll let you know when I get to this stage. Thanks for writing an excellent guide!