ZX2Fast
04-17-2008, 04:34 PM
You can use this database to check your DTC (Dianostic Trouble Codes) that are pulled from your PCM.
http://www.iequus.com/support/obd2_definitions.php
DTC Team ZX2 Knowledge Base (http://teamzx2.com/showthread.php?t=39)
Most auto part stores will read the codes for you for free. Please write down the exact code (starts with a 'P') to post along will all of your symptoms and any mods or recent work that might affect the car now.
P0171
System Too Lean (Bank 1) Symptoms include stalling at idle, rough idle, poor MPG, loss of power, high pitch sucking sound from the engine bay. This is typically caused by a vaccum leak. The most common cause is a hole in the elbow at the PCV valve. It may be hard to see so you'll want to pull it out to check it. Also look at the elbow that connects the PCV hose to the intake manifold. It can get a hole there as well. This is 90% caused by a vaccum leak and not the O2 sensor. Most people (ignorant ones) will just say it is the sensor because it set the code. That code is a good sensor reporting a lean condition. Just replacing the sensor without checking for other problems first would be like replacing an entire wire harness when a light goes out instead of checking the bulb and fuse first. Other causes can be a bad sensor, bad MAF, low fuel pressure, or an exhaust leak.
My heat and/or A/C is stuck in the defrost mode.
If you recently removed the stereo, then take it back out and reconnect the vaccum lines that go on the back of the vent selector switch. Also, this issue can be caused by a vaccum leak. See 'P0171' above for details about vaccum leaks.
Battery Light Flickers or Stays On
This is a good indication that the altenator is going out. It is rarely caused by a slipping belt. Auto Zone and Advance Auto Parts do free charging system checks. Have the altenator and battery tested.
I'm losing coolant but I see no leaks.
A common issue with aluminum radiators with plastic tanks is that these two parts have different thermal expansion rates. Over time this can cause a gap where the core meets the tanks and coolant will evaporate from these small gaps only when the radiator is hot. This is why you won't find any puddles and the car will probably pass a pressure test. You can determine if this is your issue by looking at the area where the tank and core meets. You'll be looking for residue left over from the coolant escaping. It should look brown or slightly green around that area. Kind of the color of old brass or a long time home plumbing leak. It can also be leaking from the cap if the seal on it is bad.
My temperature gauge isn't working
It is unusual for the gauge itself to fail. The ZX2 has two sensors on the thermostat housing. The top one, the coolant temperature sensor, tells the PCM the temerature of the coolant and has nothing at all to do with the reading on the gauge. There is a coolant temerature switch (some still call it a sensor, even at the part stores) on the bottom of the thermostat housing that only sends the temperature to the gauge. This is the most likely problem.
My temperature gauge rapidly flucuates or my heater blows hot/cold at random.
The most common cause for this issue is an air pocket in the cooling system. This is either caused by low coolant (most common) or a major leak in the system. See the above section: 'I'm losing coolant but I see no leaks.'
My cluster lights don't come on or they are really dim when I turn the parking/headlights on.
A common fix for this issue is to just turn the dimmer switch back up. It is located on the driverside of the lower dash panel and is easy to bump when you get into the car. This will make the lights in the dash not light up or light dimly. If th is doesn't work, check the fuse in the box.
My parking brake light comes on when I accelerate.
The parking brake light comes on if the parking brake is up or if the fluid level in the resivoir is low. Make sure the parking brake handle isn't loose. It could be loose enough that it might jump up a bit and cause the light to come one. If it is loose you can adjust it by removing the rear part of the console and tightening the nut up that holds the cable. The more common cause is low brake fluid. But, brake fluid doesn't just dissappear on its' own. Either you have a leak or the pads are worn down. As the pad wear the fluid level will drop to push the pads closer to the rotors. Don't just top off your fluid. This can lead to a lot of trouble. Check your pads to make sure they aren't worn down. If they appear fine, then check for signs of fluid leakage at all of the wheels. If in doubt, many shops offer free brake inspections.
I found oil standing on top of the spark plugs.
This is a common issue with overhead cam engines since they have the spark plugs surrounded by the valve/cam cover. The problem is the seal between the cover and head has to be perfect. Often, it isn't perfect. You can purchase a new gasket kit (important that you get the bolt grommets to or it may still seep around the edges) and install it yourself. The bolt tightening pattern and torque value is in the Knowledge Base under the 'Timing Belt' how-to. Some have had luck with just the new gasket (like myself) but others can't get it to seal unless they use some premium black RTV silicone applied in a very thin layer before the cover is installed. It is very rare that this issue is caused for any other reason. It is worth checking the cover for cracks and chipping just to make sure this isn't the issue. It is also important to note that oil standing on the plugs can cause a slight mis-fire and hesitation.
I'll add more to this later.
http://www.iequus.com/support/obd2_definitions.php
DTC Team ZX2 Knowledge Base (http://teamzx2.com/showthread.php?t=39)
Most auto part stores will read the codes for you for free. Please write down the exact code (starts with a 'P') to post along will all of your symptoms and any mods or recent work that might affect the car now.
P0171
System Too Lean (Bank 1) Symptoms include stalling at idle, rough idle, poor MPG, loss of power, high pitch sucking sound from the engine bay. This is typically caused by a vaccum leak. The most common cause is a hole in the elbow at the PCV valve. It may be hard to see so you'll want to pull it out to check it. Also look at the elbow that connects the PCV hose to the intake manifold. It can get a hole there as well. This is 90% caused by a vaccum leak and not the O2 sensor. Most people (ignorant ones) will just say it is the sensor because it set the code. That code is a good sensor reporting a lean condition. Just replacing the sensor without checking for other problems first would be like replacing an entire wire harness when a light goes out instead of checking the bulb and fuse first. Other causes can be a bad sensor, bad MAF, low fuel pressure, or an exhaust leak.
My heat and/or A/C is stuck in the defrost mode.
If you recently removed the stereo, then take it back out and reconnect the vaccum lines that go on the back of the vent selector switch. Also, this issue can be caused by a vaccum leak. See 'P0171' above for details about vaccum leaks.
Battery Light Flickers or Stays On
This is a good indication that the altenator is going out. It is rarely caused by a slipping belt. Auto Zone and Advance Auto Parts do free charging system checks. Have the altenator and battery tested.
I'm losing coolant but I see no leaks.
A common issue with aluminum radiators with plastic tanks is that these two parts have different thermal expansion rates. Over time this can cause a gap where the core meets the tanks and coolant will evaporate from these small gaps only when the radiator is hot. This is why you won't find any puddles and the car will probably pass a pressure test. You can determine if this is your issue by looking at the area where the tank and core meets. You'll be looking for residue left over from the coolant escaping. It should look brown or slightly green around that area. Kind of the color of old brass or a long time home plumbing leak. It can also be leaking from the cap if the seal on it is bad.
My temperature gauge isn't working
It is unusual for the gauge itself to fail. The ZX2 has two sensors on the thermostat housing. The top one, the coolant temperature sensor, tells the PCM the temerature of the coolant and has nothing at all to do with the reading on the gauge. There is a coolant temerature switch (some still call it a sensor, even at the part stores) on the bottom of the thermostat housing that only sends the temperature to the gauge. This is the most likely problem.
My temperature gauge rapidly flucuates or my heater blows hot/cold at random.
The most common cause for this issue is an air pocket in the cooling system. This is either caused by low coolant (most common) or a major leak in the system. See the above section: 'I'm losing coolant but I see no leaks.'
My cluster lights don't come on or they are really dim when I turn the parking/headlights on.
A common fix for this issue is to just turn the dimmer switch back up. It is located on the driverside of the lower dash panel and is easy to bump when you get into the car. This will make the lights in the dash not light up or light dimly. If th is doesn't work, check the fuse in the box.
My parking brake light comes on when I accelerate.
The parking brake light comes on if the parking brake is up or if the fluid level in the resivoir is low. Make sure the parking brake handle isn't loose. It could be loose enough that it might jump up a bit and cause the light to come one. If it is loose you can adjust it by removing the rear part of the console and tightening the nut up that holds the cable. The more common cause is low brake fluid. But, brake fluid doesn't just dissappear on its' own. Either you have a leak or the pads are worn down. As the pad wear the fluid level will drop to push the pads closer to the rotors. Don't just top off your fluid. This can lead to a lot of trouble. Check your pads to make sure they aren't worn down. If they appear fine, then check for signs of fluid leakage at all of the wheels. If in doubt, many shops offer free brake inspections.
I found oil standing on top of the spark plugs.
This is a common issue with overhead cam engines since they have the spark plugs surrounded by the valve/cam cover. The problem is the seal between the cover and head has to be perfect. Often, it isn't perfect. You can purchase a new gasket kit (important that you get the bolt grommets to or it may still seep around the edges) and install it yourself. The bolt tightening pattern and torque value is in the Knowledge Base under the 'Timing Belt' how-to. Some have had luck with just the new gasket (like myself) but others can't get it to seal unless they use some premium black RTV silicone applied in a very thin layer before the cover is installed. It is very rare that this issue is caused for any other reason. It is worth checking the cover for cracks and chipping just to make sure this isn't the issue. It is also important to note that oil standing on the plugs can cause a slight mis-fire and hesitation.
I'll add more to this later.