ZX2Fast
03-04-2009, 06:25 PM
I'll be working on this a little at a time. I'm still working on the ATX/MTX removal/installation video.
Link to video: http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&VideoID=54993698
Tools
17 mm socket
Ratchet for the socket
Short extension
C-clamp
Needle nose pliers
Hammer
Jack
Jack stand
Supplies
Rotor (part# ####)
Brake pads (part# MKD####)
Hardware kit (part# H5798)
Brake parts cleaner.
* Before getting started, remove the brake fluid filler cap. The fluid level will rise when you push the pistons back into the calipers. *
1. Jack the car up and place on the jack stand(s). If you are using a lug wrench to loosen the lug nuts, you'll want to loosen them before you jack the car up. Remove the wheel(s). You might want to remove both wheels and work on one side at a time in case you need a reference.
2. Use the 17 mm to remove the bolts holding the outer caliper on. You may have to use the hammer to help you loosen them. The upper bolt is usually blocked by the brake hose and so you'll may need to use the extension there.
3. Once the bolts are out, you can pull the outer caliper straight off. Also take the rotor off. Dis-assemble the outer caliper by removing the first pad and then taking the 'W' clip off. Then remove the retaining pin(s) (some of them use two pins and some are one long pin) then remove the second pad. Now you can pull the guide pins out.
4 Use the C-clamp to push the caliper piston back in.
5. Re-assemble the outer caliper. Put the guide pins in. Then install the pad and install the retaining pin(s). Now put the 'W' clip back on and note the orientation in the picture. Now put the last pad on. If a new rotor is to be used, be certain you spray it off with brake parts cleaner before you install it. They have an oil on them to keep them from rusting in storage. Put the new pad spacers on the knuckle, look at the picture for reference.
6. Put the rotor on, followed by the outer caliper. There are holes in the inner caliper for the guide pins to slide into. Once you have this lined up and pushed in, you can put the 17 mm bolts back in and tighten them up.
7. Re-install the wheel, put the car on the ground, and re-install the cap. If the fluid level is too high, then use a turkey baster to remove some of it.
VERY IMPORTANT!!!
Before you move the car you need to pump the brakes to build the pressure back up. Otherwise, your car won't stop the first few times you push the brakes.
Link to video: http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&VideoID=54993698
Tools
17 mm socket
Ratchet for the socket
Short extension
C-clamp
Needle nose pliers
Hammer
Jack
Jack stand
Supplies
Rotor (part# ####)
Brake pads (part# MKD####)
Hardware kit (part# H5798)
Brake parts cleaner.
* Before getting started, remove the brake fluid filler cap. The fluid level will rise when you push the pistons back into the calipers. *
1. Jack the car up and place on the jack stand(s). If you are using a lug wrench to loosen the lug nuts, you'll want to loosen them before you jack the car up. Remove the wheel(s). You might want to remove both wheels and work on one side at a time in case you need a reference.
2. Use the 17 mm to remove the bolts holding the outer caliper on. You may have to use the hammer to help you loosen them. The upper bolt is usually blocked by the brake hose and so you'll may need to use the extension there.
3. Once the bolts are out, you can pull the outer caliper straight off. Also take the rotor off. Dis-assemble the outer caliper by removing the first pad and then taking the 'W' clip off. Then remove the retaining pin(s) (some of them use two pins and some are one long pin) then remove the second pad. Now you can pull the guide pins out.
4 Use the C-clamp to push the caliper piston back in.
5. Re-assemble the outer caliper. Put the guide pins in. Then install the pad and install the retaining pin(s). Now put the 'W' clip back on and note the orientation in the picture. Now put the last pad on. If a new rotor is to be used, be certain you spray it off with brake parts cleaner before you install it. They have an oil on them to keep them from rusting in storage. Put the new pad spacers on the knuckle, look at the picture for reference.
6. Put the rotor on, followed by the outer caliper. There are holes in the inner caliper for the guide pins to slide into. Once you have this lined up and pushed in, you can put the 17 mm bolts back in and tighten them up.
7. Re-install the wheel, put the car on the ground, and re-install the cap. If the fluid level is too high, then use a turkey baster to remove some of it.
VERY IMPORTANT!!!
Before you move the car you need to pump the brakes to build the pressure back up. Otherwise, your car won't stop the first few times you push the brakes.