ZX2Fast
04-18-2008, 04:02 AM
This covers how to install an electric sending unit for an oil pressure gauge. Since this how-to involves removal of the altenator to reach the supply in the back of the block, you can also use this to remove and replace your altenator.
I know you will need various tools, so I hope you have a set of tools. You will specificly neen a shallow and deep 10mm and 13mm sockets. You will also need a couple of breaker bars, 3", and 6" extensions. A good set of channel locks and a flat head screwdriver is always a must. I wish I could tell you the thread size, you can go to the parts store and see if they have the oil switch and get an elbow and straigt brass fitting. Your sending unit adapter should fit too. The one I used (Fazegauge) was the second largest in the box. It always helps to have a friend or a second car for trips to the part store.
Here we go!
Remove the negitive cable from the battery. Jack the passenger side up and put it on a jack stand. Remove the wheel and the splash shield. Use a breaker bar and a 13mm socket on the tension pulley to release tension from the drive belt. Take the belt off the UDP and this will give you plenty of slack to work with. Take the belt off the altenator now.
Remove the coolant overflow bottle. It is held on by a 10mm bolt and a 10mm nut. Remove the main cable from the altenator (10mm) and take the black clip off using the flat head screwdriver. There is a grey clip with a single wire. Leave it in until you get the altenator loose. It will be easier to remove then.
The altenator is held in place by 3 13mm bolts. One you can see on top. One is directly below that and the last one is directly behind (towards the driver side) of that one.
Now with the altenator loose you can see the grey clip. Use your flat head screwdriver to remove it.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/365000-365999/365874_50_full.jpg
Here you can see the stock oil switch, I'm pointing to it with my magnetic pick up tool. It has a yellow wire with red stripe. Remove it with the 15/16" socket. If you do not plan to use a 'T' fitting to keep the oil switch too then tape up this wire.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/365000-365999/365874_48_full.jpg
Here you can see that I have mine installed. If your sending unit is small enough you won't need the elbow. Just so long as it does not interfere with the oil filter. If you need the elbow just continue as such. Put the elbow and pipe in first and use the channel locks to tighten it. Put the sending unit wire on and run it inside your car.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/365000-365999/365874_49_full.jpg
Now put the altenator, drive belt, and battery cable back on and start the car. Check for leaks by looking through the intake manifold and under the car. If you have no leaks then put the splash gaurd, coolant bottle, and wheel back on. Put the car back on the ground and install your gauge. Go test drive it and make sure the gauge is responsive. This car holds between 70-90 psi when cruising. I hope this all worked out for you.
I did end up having an issue with the brass fitting breaking off. I removed all of this and put the stock oil pressure switch back in. I then used the oil galley in the head behind coil pack. It is plugged by a small allen head plug. The thread size of the galley is 1/8" NPT. I used a stainless steel line and put the sending unit away from the engine.
I know you will need various tools, so I hope you have a set of tools. You will specificly neen a shallow and deep 10mm and 13mm sockets. You will also need a couple of breaker bars, 3", and 6" extensions. A good set of channel locks and a flat head screwdriver is always a must. I wish I could tell you the thread size, you can go to the parts store and see if they have the oil switch and get an elbow and straigt brass fitting. Your sending unit adapter should fit too. The one I used (Fazegauge) was the second largest in the box. It always helps to have a friend or a second car for trips to the part store.
Here we go!
Remove the negitive cable from the battery. Jack the passenger side up and put it on a jack stand. Remove the wheel and the splash shield. Use a breaker bar and a 13mm socket on the tension pulley to release tension from the drive belt. Take the belt off the UDP and this will give you plenty of slack to work with. Take the belt off the altenator now.
Remove the coolant overflow bottle. It is held on by a 10mm bolt and a 10mm nut. Remove the main cable from the altenator (10mm) and take the black clip off using the flat head screwdriver. There is a grey clip with a single wire. Leave it in until you get the altenator loose. It will be easier to remove then.
The altenator is held in place by 3 13mm bolts. One you can see on top. One is directly below that and the last one is directly behind (towards the driver side) of that one.
Now with the altenator loose you can see the grey clip. Use your flat head screwdriver to remove it.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/365000-365999/365874_50_full.jpg
Here you can see the stock oil switch, I'm pointing to it with my magnetic pick up tool. It has a yellow wire with red stripe. Remove it with the 15/16" socket. If you do not plan to use a 'T' fitting to keep the oil switch too then tape up this wire.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/365000-365999/365874_48_full.jpg
Here you can see that I have mine installed. If your sending unit is small enough you won't need the elbow. Just so long as it does not interfere with the oil filter. If you need the elbow just continue as such. Put the elbow and pipe in first and use the channel locks to tighten it. Put the sending unit wire on and run it inside your car.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/365000-365999/365874_49_full.jpg
Now put the altenator, drive belt, and battery cable back on and start the car. Check for leaks by looking through the intake manifold and under the car. If you have no leaks then put the splash gaurd, coolant bottle, and wheel back on. Put the car back on the ground and install your gauge. Go test drive it and make sure the gauge is responsive. This car holds between 70-90 psi when cruising. I hope this all worked out for you.
I did end up having an issue with the brass fitting breaking off. I removed all of this and put the stock oil pressure switch back in. I then used the oil galley in the head behind coil pack. It is plugged by a small allen head plug. The thread size of the galley is 1/8" NPT. I used a stainless steel line and put the sending unit away from the engine.