ZX2Fast
04-18-2008, 04:51 AM
This is a very basic remote start/keyless entry install. I cannot cover every possible situation in this how-to. Anyone that has a general knowledge of automobile electronics should be able to perform this install. I am a competent installer but I am not responsible for damage you cause resulting from this how-to. If you do not believe you can do this yourself then pay someone to do it for you. That is a better way then to end up with a burnt hunk of metal. If you need help with this then contact me by AIM, Razberry Eater.
TOOLS
I will list the tools you will most commonly need. If you do not have these things then go get them before you attempt this install.
1. Volt/ohm meter. For the love of God, do not use a test light. I don't care what dad/grandpa/mechanic/baby-sitter told you.
2. Set of sockets and screwdrivers.
3. Really good electrical tape. The 3M tape is great. You want tape that is soft and flexible. You do not want tape that is brittle and hard. If you can't afford good tape then did you steal the remote starter?
4. Some 16-14 gauge wire is handy for when the wire from the harness is not long enough.
5. Wire strippers, crimpers, cutters. You can usually get them all in one handy tool.
6. Zip ties (wire ties).
7. Quick wire splices. I use the ones that go over the wire then you put the wire you want to splice in then crimp them down with pliers. Here is a picture of them.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/365000-365999/365874_89_full.jpg
They are the red connectors in this picture. You will need blue ones (16-14 gauge) and red ones (22-18 gauge). You will see in the pictures during the install which ones I used.
8. Set of channel locks or wire pliers. Channel locks work best for me.
9. Drill with a set of good drill bits.
10. A good work light. It is dark under the dash.
11. A screw that fits into the ring terminal for the ground wire of the unit. You will use this to ground the wire to the frame of the car.
12. Sharp knife or razor for cutting insulation off of wires.
QUICK EDUCATION
You will read a bit about negative (-) and positive (+) triggers during this how-to. When you test something for a + trigger you will see 12 volts when the component or switch is operated. i.e., the parking lights are a + system. They see 12 volts when you turn the switch on. When you test for a - trigger you will see 12 volts when the component is not being operated and zero volts when it is. i.e., the door pin in the ZX2 is a negative trigger. When the door is closed, the switch will read 12 volts. With the door open the switch will test for zero volts or ground. This is usually a wire that grounds a relay to operate a device.
Now I will show you how to splice into the larger ignition wires. You do not want to cut these wires in half. You will kick yourself for it. The method I use involves making two cuts about 1.5" across the wire, just deep enough to get through the insulation. Then make a cut along the wire going from one cut to the other. You should now be able to take that 1.5" section off of the wire and expose the conductor. It will look like this.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/365000-365999/365874_79_full.jpg
Now you will use the test probe from your volt/ohm meter to split the conductor in half and insert the wire you wish to splice. Then wrap the wire around the conductor and tape it up.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/365000-365999/365874_90_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/365000-365999/365874_94_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/365000-365999/365874_93_full.jpg
Run wires along the stock harness when possible. Make certain they cannot be kicked by accident.
BEFORE YOU GET STARTED
It is a good idea to have a spare car handy incase you need to go get parts. Also, roll the windows down to avoid locking the keys in the vehicle. Make certain the light you have has good batteries (if you are not using a 115-volt light) or that you have spares handy.
You will have to leave the battery connected during the install. You have to be able to test the wires to make certain you have the right ones. Just remember to not cross wires or leave wires exposed. Be sure you have a good idea of the location of the wires you need and the color of the wires. If you need wire colors, email me and I will try to find them for you. I am including wire colors for the ZX2 below. It may be helpful to print this up and take it with you to do the install. Now do an inventory of the unit you bought and make certain it came with everything. The remoter starter and/or keyless entry are referred to as the 'unit'. The wires coming from the unit are part of the 'harness'. Unless I specify the vehicle harness you can take it as the harness from the unit. When I say 12 volts, I mean battery voltage. Not all batteries make exactly 12 volts. So long as it is in that range, 11-13 volts, it is good. I will refer to it as 12 volts because it is faster and easier then typing out 'battery voltage'.
WIRE COLORS
These are the wire colors for the Escort ZX2. These are the most common colors. I say this because Ford likes to change them between model years just to piss you off. The victim for this install is my wife's 1998 Escort ZX2. It is a manual transmission vehicle. The wires we connect in this how-to work for the MTX and ATX ZX2`s. The only exception being the tach wire (you can use it in ATX for more accurate starting if you want, but it is required for MTX) and the start wire that goes to the clutch switch. The ATX will use the start wire that goes to the harness on the steering column. The unit used in this how-to is a manual transmission safe model sold by Designtech-Intl www.autocommad.com and I have used one for years without a problem.
Start: For MTX red/white coming from the clutch switch. For ATX it is the red/white wire on the steering column. It will test for 12 volts only when the key is turned to start and the clutch is pushed in.
Ignition 1: Blue. This wire powers the things required to run the vehicle like the fuel pump and PCM. It will test for 12 volts when the key is in the start and run positions only.
Ignition 2: Black/red. This wire powers things not required to run the car, like the A/C and rear defrost. It tests for 12 volts when the key is in the run position only. Some vehicles it will test for 12 volts just like the ignition 1 wire does.
Accessory wire: Black/white wire. This wire powers up things like the stereo and cigarette lighter. It tests for 12 volts when the key is in the Acc. and run positions.
Brake wire: Green. This wire activates the brake lights. You can find it on the brake switch and test for 12 volts when the brake pedal is pushed down.
Tach wire: Light brown/red at PCM, red/light blue at the coil. To test for this wire set your volt/ohm meter to the 20 volt ac scale. Ground the red test probe and use the black test probe to test the wire. The wire will read a low voltage at idle. The voltage will increase (or decrease depending on polarity) as the engine speed increases. This wire is required for most MTX units but is an option for ATX. I like to use the one at the PCM because it is one less wire to run into the engine bay and makes for a cleaner install.
Parking Lights: Red/black. This wire shows 12 volts when the parking lights are on and zero when they are off. You can find this wire in the relay cluster or in the green connector below the cabin fuse box.
Door Pin wire: Red/white. This is a - triggered wire. It sees 12 volts with the door closed and zero volts with the door open. This wire is usually used as an alarm input or to turn on the dome light. For the MTX unit I used it is required to be connected.
Lock wire: Grey. This wire is a - trigger wire. Located in the passenger kick panel in the same harness as the unlock and trunk wires.
Unlock wire: Blue. This is a - triggered wire. Located in the passenger kick panel with the lock and trunk wires.
Trunk release wire: Green/black wire. This is a - triggered wire. Located in the passenger kick panel with the lock/unlock wires.
Horn wire: Green/orange. This is a - triggered wire. Located on the steering column.
GETTING STARTED
*Hook the ground wire for the unit up first. This way you will have a good ground for your meter when you test wires.* Drill a hole in the body/frame of the interior. Try to avoid using the dash/bracing. It is not a very reliable ground. Drill the hole just big enough for the screw you are using through the ring terminal. The screw should fit tight.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/365000-365999/365874_80_full.jpg
TOOLS
I will list the tools you will most commonly need. If you do not have these things then go get them before you attempt this install.
1. Volt/ohm meter. For the love of God, do not use a test light. I don't care what dad/grandpa/mechanic/baby-sitter told you.
2. Set of sockets and screwdrivers.
3. Really good electrical tape. The 3M tape is great. You want tape that is soft and flexible. You do not want tape that is brittle and hard. If you can't afford good tape then did you steal the remote starter?
4. Some 16-14 gauge wire is handy for when the wire from the harness is not long enough.
5. Wire strippers, crimpers, cutters. You can usually get them all in one handy tool.
6. Zip ties (wire ties).
7. Quick wire splices. I use the ones that go over the wire then you put the wire you want to splice in then crimp them down with pliers. Here is a picture of them.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/365000-365999/365874_89_full.jpg
They are the red connectors in this picture. You will need blue ones (16-14 gauge) and red ones (22-18 gauge). You will see in the pictures during the install which ones I used.
8. Set of channel locks or wire pliers. Channel locks work best for me.
9. Drill with a set of good drill bits.
10. A good work light. It is dark under the dash.
11. A screw that fits into the ring terminal for the ground wire of the unit. You will use this to ground the wire to the frame of the car.
12. Sharp knife or razor for cutting insulation off of wires.
QUICK EDUCATION
You will read a bit about negative (-) and positive (+) triggers during this how-to. When you test something for a + trigger you will see 12 volts when the component or switch is operated. i.e., the parking lights are a + system. They see 12 volts when you turn the switch on. When you test for a - trigger you will see 12 volts when the component is not being operated and zero volts when it is. i.e., the door pin in the ZX2 is a negative trigger. When the door is closed, the switch will read 12 volts. With the door open the switch will test for zero volts or ground. This is usually a wire that grounds a relay to operate a device.
Now I will show you how to splice into the larger ignition wires. You do not want to cut these wires in half. You will kick yourself for it. The method I use involves making two cuts about 1.5" across the wire, just deep enough to get through the insulation. Then make a cut along the wire going from one cut to the other. You should now be able to take that 1.5" section off of the wire and expose the conductor. It will look like this.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/365000-365999/365874_79_full.jpg
Now you will use the test probe from your volt/ohm meter to split the conductor in half and insert the wire you wish to splice. Then wrap the wire around the conductor and tape it up.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/365000-365999/365874_90_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/365000-365999/365874_94_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/365000-365999/365874_93_full.jpg
Run wires along the stock harness when possible. Make certain they cannot be kicked by accident.
BEFORE YOU GET STARTED
It is a good idea to have a spare car handy incase you need to go get parts. Also, roll the windows down to avoid locking the keys in the vehicle. Make certain the light you have has good batteries (if you are not using a 115-volt light) or that you have spares handy.
You will have to leave the battery connected during the install. You have to be able to test the wires to make certain you have the right ones. Just remember to not cross wires or leave wires exposed. Be sure you have a good idea of the location of the wires you need and the color of the wires. If you need wire colors, email me and I will try to find them for you. I am including wire colors for the ZX2 below. It may be helpful to print this up and take it with you to do the install. Now do an inventory of the unit you bought and make certain it came with everything. The remoter starter and/or keyless entry are referred to as the 'unit'. The wires coming from the unit are part of the 'harness'. Unless I specify the vehicle harness you can take it as the harness from the unit. When I say 12 volts, I mean battery voltage. Not all batteries make exactly 12 volts. So long as it is in that range, 11-13 volts, it is good. I will refer to it as 12 volts because it is faster and easier then typing out 'battery voltage'.
WIRE COLORS
These are the wire colors for the Escort ZX2. These are the most common colors. I say this because Ford likes to change them between model years just to piss you off. The victim for this install is my wife's 1998 Escort ZX2. It is a manual transmission vehicle. The wires we connect in this how-to work for the MTX and ATX ZX2`s. The only exception being the tach wire (you can use it in ATX for more accurate starting if you want, but it is required for MTX) and the start wire that goes to the clutch switch. The ATX will use the start wire that goes to the harness on the steering column. The unit used in this how-to is a manual transmission safe model sold by Designtech-Intl www.autocommad.com and I have used one for years without a problem.
Start: For MTX red/white coming from the clutch switch. For ATX it is the red/white wire on the steering column. It will test for 12 volts only when the key is turned to start and the clutch is pushed in.
Ignition 1: Blue. This wire powers the things required to run the vehicle like the fuel pump and PCM. It will test for 12 volts when the key is in the start and run positions only.
Ignition 2: Black/red. This wire powers things not required to run the car, like the A/C and rear defrost. It tests for 12 volts when the key is in the run position only. Some vehicles it will test for 12 volts just like the ignition 1 wire does.
Accessory wire: Black/white wire. This wire powers up things like the stereo and cigarette lighter. It tests for 12 volts when the key is in the Acc. and run positions.
Brake wire: Green. This wire activates the brake lights. You can find it on the brake switch and test for 12 volts when the brake pedal is pushed down.
Tach wire: Light brown/red at PCM, red/light blue at the coil. To test for this wire set your volt/ohm meter to the 20 volt ac scale. Ground the red test probe and use the black test probe to test the wire. The wire will read a low voltage at idle. The voltage will increase (or decrease depending on polarity) as the engine speed increases. This wire is required for most MTX units but is an option for ATX. I like to use the one at the PCM because it is one less wire to run into the engine bay and makes for a cleaner install.
Parking Lights: Red/black. This wire shows 12 volts when the parking lights are on and zero when they are off. You can find this wire in the relay cluster or in the green connector below the cabin fuse box.
Door Pin wire: Red/white. This is a - triggered wire. It sees 12 volts with the door closed and zero volts with the door open. This wire is usually used as an alarm input or to turn on the dome light. For the MTX unit I used it is required to be connected.
Lock wire: Grey. This wire is a - trigger wire. Located in the passenger kick panel in the same harness as the unlock and trunk wires.
Unlock wire: Blue. This is a - triggered wire. Located in the passenger kick panel with the lock and trunk wires.
Trunk release wire: Green/black wire. This is a - triggered wire. Located in the passenger kick panel with the lock/unlock wires.
Horn wire: Green/orange. This is a - triggered wire. Located on the steering column.
GETTING STARTED
*Hook the ground wire for the unit up first. This way you will have a good ground for your meter when you test wires.* Drill a hole in the body/frame of the interior. Try to avoid using the dash/bracing. It is not a very reliable ground. Drill the hole just big enough for the screw you are using through the ring terminal. The screw should fit tight.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/365000-365999/365874_80_full.jpg