dx330 and you. A dubbsmentary on prepping an engine bay for paint

[CJW]

Items:
Empty engine bay(Pain In The Rumpus)
DX330 (ACRYLI-CLEAN Wax and Grease Remover)
Rag (Your mother's favorite dish towel)
Red Scotch Brite pad (Red Scotch Brite pad)

First it stands in the engine bay. It can go under radiator support, through the radiator area, OR over the radiator support. It starts at the window and work it's way to the front.

It takes the DX330 and puts the dx330 on the pad. It lightly scrubs the painted areas with the dx330 soaked pad. It notices it's hands are turning Denim Blue(KY). It rubs the scrubbed areas with the rag every so often.

It notices that the areas scrubbed look ready(damn near stripped of prior blue paint) to be cleaned and sprayed with sealer.

It thinks dx330 is the best invention EVAR.

DX330 FTW. Your method FTL.


In non silence of the lambs:

Items:
Empty engine bay(Pain In The Rumpus)
DX330 (ACRYLI-CLEAN Wax and Grease Remover)
Rag (Your mother's favorite dish towel)
Red Scotch Brite pad (Red Scotch Brite pad)

So this weekend I decided to start work again on my 98. Engine bay was stripped a long time ago. I climbed into the engine bay and started prepping the bay for new paint.

I took my rag, pad, and dx330 into the bay withe me. I started in the windshield wiper motor area and worked towards the front.

The whole time my hands and arms are getting bluer and bluer. Rag is getting blacker and blacker. Area getting the treatment is getting primery coloreder and primery coloreder.

Little to no stink. Easy to use. DX330 for president(aka FTW)! Your way sucks(aka FTL)!

The engine bay will be ready for sealer this weekend.

[joshalabama]

The first method of applicating was pretty funny. This is good info. Where can you purchase this?

[CJW]

Anywhere that carries PPG

I bought it at BAPS Paints. Which is where I will be buying my paint from as well.

[xtremecaraudio]

Cool, sounds like some good stuff. Maybe I'll try this on the rx7's engine bay while I wait for my motor.

[CJW]

Again, I would like to warn everyone.

Taking everything out of your engine bay, cataloging every bolt/nut, every bracket, every harness, is time consuming and a PITA.

Getting the bay ready for prep takes longer than prep. I assume reassembly is going to take a while too.

[zx2loon]

What?? No pics??

Aren't you worthless....

[CJW]

ill be honest. im probably not going to post any pics until its done.

[zx2loon]

What? When the entire car gets done or the work done to the engine bay?? In other words, clairfly "done"........

[CJW]

probably not until the paintjob is done.

I don't want to start a project thread until the whole thing is done because people are annoying and I don't wat to see bump or update? every day

[yellow2000S/R]

At work we use ZEP 40 which is an aerosol wax and grease remover 1st. Then we use PPG wax and grease remover in a pump spray bottle.

We use PPG Global Refinishing System for new cars and for used cars/trade ins that need repair before going on the lot, we use PPG Shop Line clear. Shop Line clear scratches somewhat easily tho.

The Global Refinishing System seems to have a pretty good color match system. We had problems with a silver TL. The color was off quite a bit so we had BAPS come in with their color camera/gun and take 6 pics on the surface of a untouched panel and got us a custom paint blend that matches great.


I'll probably end up using BAPS when I go to paint my cars. Shop discount FTW... same with having a relative that works/delivers for them!

[yellow2000S/R]

Here is a post I made over on another forum about a guy looking for a paint job and posted up a quote for $800 from a shop. I told him about what we do at work and about another guy at the shop that does outside work for $1k including materials +.

DA sanding and hand sanding are, in my opinion, out of order.

It should be hand sanding the edges and any hard curves, then doing the flatter portions with the DA. Reason for this is hand sanding creates straight long scratches and if you press too hard they will be noticable. This REALLY matters if you are shooting a metallic or pearlescent. As the paint flows, the metallics/mica will get caught up in the scratches and stand up on end. This is BAD because it makes the scratches appear dark as you don't have the same light reflection. It's not as big of a deal with Mica as most are round, but metallics, especially depending on size, can really make scratches stand out.

I work for Sun Motorcars doing prep work and soon paint work on Mercedes, Porsche, Audi, and BMWs (Mini, and once in a while a random Honda/Acura or other car). The hole hand sanding / DA sanding being switches is a matter of personal preference I guess, but in my experience, I prefer to DA after hand. DA makes a smoother surface and if there is any chance of there being sand scratches, they aren't lines and will be little to not noticeable at all.

I'm not taking on many side jobs yet as I don't feel I have enough experience (I'm picky...) but I do know a guy that might paint take it on for around $1k including materials. You would have to bring it to him tho (Central PA, Mechanicsburg area).


Below is what we do at work... BOLD stuff is in addition to...

The red "& further Cleaning" is incorrect. If the parts aren't already clean, sanding them isn't going to make them clean either. Sanding is just going to push the dirt/grease/etc. farther into the existing finish and cause problems which could be noticeable right away, a few weeks after being painted, or a year after being painted.


Chemical Cleaning and De-waxing
- 1st is ZEP 40 - Heavy duty Chemical degreaser
- 2nd is W&G remover - removes anything left over
- 3rd if needed is a Waterborne cleaner - used if there is noticeable areas where bird poo sat for extended time.
Hand Sanded for Adhesion & further Cleaning
Dual Action Machine Sanding for Adhesion & further Cleaning
Air-blown Dust Removal
Wax&Grease Removal - Removes more dust than just blowing it off (actually wiping it down with a solvent)
Careful Masking/Taping
Pulled into booth
Plastic draped over vehicle if needed (pertains more to panel painting) and then cut out
Wax&Grease Removal - Removes anything that may have transferred on in the process of putting the masking on... such as brushing against a panel with your forearm
Tack Cloth Cleaning
Complete Exterior Primer/Sealer
3 Full Exterior Coats of Basecoat
2-3 coats clear (you specify)
Any dirt/fibers sanded with 1500 dry and 3000 wet. Then buffed with compound, swirl remover, and final glaze. Brings back the shine from the sanded areas.


Entire cars clear can be sanded if you want that smooth mirror like surface for a show car for extra $$$

[CJW]

BAPs is whats up. The person teaching me to paint has been a member for a long time and is getting me discounts. Good stuffs

[yellow2000S/R]

BAPs is whats up. The person teaching me to paint has been a member for a long time and is getting me discounts. Good stuffs

Member on here? Who?

[zx2loon]

probably not until the paintjob is done.

I don't want to start a project thread until the whole thing is done because people are annoying and I don't wat to see bump or update? every day

I understand that. One of the reasons I have never started one either. I'm just saving all my info and pics for one huge post at a very later date.

[Beodude123]

Does it then put the lotion on it's skin?

[CJW]

josh he's not on here. my dads friend/neighbor...