Upgrade to an altenator made for a van, 130 amp

[ZX2Fast]

I think these are 130 amp altenators. The lure here is that it fits kinda easy and comes with a warranty from the store you get it from. Here is the Auto Zone part number:
http://a536.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/126/l_b4fdbe16e2bed71f842639421665e6df.jpg

You can see it looks very similar to the ZX2 altenator.
http://a705.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/100/l_7c5ade8822ceaec6175abe915fb98600.jpg
http://a504.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/102/l_7e91002cd29c7015241ccabe270ff9cf.jpg

You can see in the next picture that the new alt doesn't have the extender on it. No matter, just remove the one from your old alt and put it on the new one.
http://a526.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/85/l_16300421e28abc6564699ad20df8263d.jpg

The body of this alt is larger then the body of the ZX2 alt. You can use some spacers to clear the intake manifold. I'm not sure if you'll need a larger belt or not. If I find out, I'll let you know. All the other connectors are the same. For information on removing the altenator, see my other how-to:
http://www.teamzx2.com/showthread.php?t=248

[catch23.5]

what kinda van is the alternator of

[Open]

what kinda van is the alternator of
x2 and how much ?

[ZX2Fast]

It is from the E series and prices vary by region. You have the part number, just call and ask the price.

[fireguy]

so did you ever find out if the belt size is still the same?

[mellowness65]

did anyone ever actually try it? Several people were "going to" but I never saw confirmation of it

[Twiggy2cents]

i had it on my old car...i just used washers and my tensioner was able to stretch far enough

[fireguy]

is this 130 amps at idle? there's a high output zx2 one on ebay that's 105 at idle and 200+ at 1200rpm and that's only $200. everywhere i look around here for that e series one is $120+ new including a core charge so why not just pay the extra $80 for the high output one?

[ZX2Fast]

is this 130 amps at idle? there's a high output zx2 one on ebay that's 105 at idle and 200+ at 1200rpm and that's only $200. everywhere i look around here for that e series one is $120+ new including a core charge so why not just pay the extra $80 for the high output one?

Does that 200 amp altenator have a lifetime free replacement warranty? If you don't need 200 amps then why pay for 200 amps?

[fireguy]

Does that 200 amp altenator have a lifetime free replacement warranty? If you don't need 200 amps then why pay for 200 amps?

no, for the heavy duty zx2 one it's just a one year. the e series van ones come with a three year warranty every place in town here though

EDIT: idk how many amps i need, i want to push a 2500 watt rms sub and probably amp my speakers too. do you happen to know how to determine that? i swear there's some formula..

[ZX2Fast]

Auto Zone's Duralast are lifetime.

[fireguy]

alright, there isn't an auto zone near me. did you know anything about figuring out how much amps your alt can handle?

[ZX2Fast]

I think the stock alt is 90 amps.

[fireguy]

This was what i was lookin for:

"Q: What's the biggest amp I can hook up to my car's electrical system?

A: Your car's alternator ampere rating determines how powerful an amplifier you can install. Multiply the ampere rating by 40%, and you'll get a rough idea of how much reserve current capacity your car's system has. Next, you'll need to calculate the approximate current draw of the amplifier you're considering installing.

To calculate the current draw of an amplifier, multiply the number of channels by the RMS watts per channel (a 2 channel amp rated at 300 watts RMS per channel would be 600 watts). Double it to account for amplifier inefficiency (600 watts X 2 = 1200 watts), then divide by the average output Voltage of an alternator, 13.8 volts (1200 divided by 13.8 = 87 amps). Since the average music signal requires about 1/3rd of the average power in a test tone, divide by 3 (87 amps divided by 3 = 29 amps). The result is the amplifier's approximate average current draw.

A fast-and-nasty way to ballpark an amplifier's current draw is to divide the total fuse value of the amp by two. For amplifiers with multiple fuses, the rating of all fuses provided with the amp must be added together. This will likely produce a significantly higher estimate than using the proper formula. Although inaccurate, this will err on the side of safety.

Finally, compare the amplifier's approximate current draw to your vehicle's reserve current capacity to determine if the electrical system can support the amplifier.

If all those numbers are a bit much, here's a simpler way to think about it: an alternator capable of producing 65 amperes is usually adequate for systems up to 270 X 2 watts RMS. A compact car with a 35-amp alternator can accommodate around 150 X 2 watts of power, while a Sport Utility with a 145-amp alternator can handle a 600 X 2 watt system. A capacitor can help if your system is drawing a little too much power. Car audio competitors often replace their vehicle's alternators with heavy-duty upgrades to accommodate big power demands."

[Open]

That´s right !

If i found it, i going to replace stock.

one option is reinforce to take advantage of 95amp. (stock)

Its in spanish , i hope help you

Este tutorial es para que podamos reforzar el cable de alimentación del alternador lo cual nos ayudar a disminuir la caida del voltaje en el alternador y garantizaria que los 95 amp que ofrece el alternador estuvieran en nuestro sistema, Esto quiere decir que permitiria que nuestro sistema de audio y algunos sistemas trabajen de mejor modo, llamese vidiros electricos, luz del tablero no se baje de intensidad, etc, Además los buenos instaladores recomiendan esto por mucho y por encima de adquirir un capacitor.

Antes de iniciar asegurate de tener un desarmador, plano , dado de 10 y 8, cable 4awg, 2awg o 0 awg aprox 1.5 m

1.- En mi caso voy a reforzar el cable de corriente que va del alternador a la bateria, ¿El cable se puede substituir ? Si si se puede yo por cuestiones practicas solo lo reforze con un calibre 4 awg y le puse un portafusible

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a25/tuxopen/2c3d_1-1.jpg

Aqui para hacerlo no desmonte el alternador, solo desconectamos este conector con el desarmador plano marcado en el dibujo como No 2 (rojo) y retiramos un chupon que protege el cable del alternador No 1 (Azul), con un dado 10 pequeño y la matraca de 3/8 pues no se tiene mucho espacio.

Luego de haberlo retirado con un conector de anillo que colocamos al cable reforzado lo aseguramos ahi mismo y el extremo, claro a la bateria.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a25/tuxopen/DSC03253.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a25/tuxopen/DSC03254.jpg

2.- El paso dos es reforzar nuestra tierra, Esto igual con un cable 4awg. Aqui lo conecte a este punto y la bateria esto con el dado 8.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a25/tuxopen/DSC03359.jpg

3.- Es recomendable conectar un punto del motor a tierra , esto con un cable tambioen de 4wg

Ese aun esta pendiente y renovare el post en cuanto lo halla hecho

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a25/tuxopen/DSC03357.jpg

Saludos y comentarios o conplementos bienvenidos

[Buster]

That doesn't help.

SPEAKY THE ENGLISH!

[Buster]

is this 130 amps at idle? there's a high output zx2 one on ebay that's 105 at idle and 200+ at 1200rpm and that's only $200. everywhere i look around here for that e series one is $120+ new including a core charge so why not just pay the extra $80 for the high output one?


You usually can't return things bought from eBay though.

[zx2loon]

English! Do you speak it??

[fireguy]

You usually can't return things bought from eBay though.


From the listing:

"You may return any item purchased within 15 days for a full refund."

[OGreaTFuzzY1]

i would do this if somone did this before that knows how to really do it. I need a bigger alt due to needing the power

http://www.languagefix.com/images/EnglishSpoken.jpg

~Fuzzy

[fireguy]

dude, you guys are lazy yo.. it's close but whatever

"This tutorial one is so that we can reinforce the cable of diet of the alternator which us to help to diminish it fallen of the voltage in the alternator and garantizaria that the 95 amp that offers the alternator they were in our system, This means that permitiria that our system of audio and some systems work of better way, be called vidiros electricos, light of the panel descend not of intensity, Good installers recommend this by a lot and to acquire a capacitor.

Before initiating you assure you of having a hammer, flat, given of 10 and 8, cable 4awg, 2awg or 0 awg aprox 1,5 m

1. In my case I am going to reinforce the cable of current that goes of the alternator to the battery, ¿The cable can be substituted? If if it is able I by questions you practice alone reinforce him with a caliber 4 awg and I put him a portafusible

Here to do it he dismantle not the alternator, alone we disconnect this connector with the flat hammer marked in the drawing as Not 2 (red) and we withdraw a chupon that protects the cable of the alternator Not 1 (Blue), with a given 10 small and the rattle of 3/8 therefore does not have a lot of space.

After to have withdrawn with a connector of ring that we place to the cable reinforced we assure it ahi same and the extreme, clear to the bateria.

2. The step two is to reinforce our land, This equal with a cable 4awg. Here connect it to this point and the battery this with the given 8.

3. It is recommendable to connect a point of the motor to land, this with a cable tambioen of 4wg

That even this slope and I renewed the post as soon as finds it fact"

the last part just says "thanks, compliments and questions are welcome"

[fireguy]

ok, maybe i can't really make out much lol..

[OGreaTFuzzY1]

me sa no understand

~Fuzzy

[Twiggy2cents]

lol and guys i said earlier i did this before...i used like 4 washers per bolt and it worked fine....

[OGreaTFuzzY1]

how thick of washers

~Fuzzy

[Twiggy2cents]

lol...look at it differently use just enough washers so that it doesnt touch... i didnt mike the washers before i put them on i just used trial and error

[OGreaTFuzzY1]

ah ok well when i can get a few bucks together ill buy one or find one in the junk yard

~Fuzzy

[iceracer]

I would like to see that alternator that puts out 100 amps at idle. Must be huge.

[iceracer]

no, for the heavy duty zx2 one it's just a one year. the e series van ones come with a three year warranty every place in town here though

EDIT: idk how many amps i need, i want to push a 2500 watt rms sub and probably amp my speakers too. do you happen to know how to determine that? i swear there's some formula..

200 amps would give you 2400 watts.

[iceracer]

This was what i was lookin for:

"Q: What's the biggest amp I can hook up to my car's electrical system?

A: Your car's alternator ampere rating determines how powerful an amplifier you can install. Multiply the ampere rating by 40%, and you'll get a rough idea of how much reserve current capacity your car's system has. Next, you'll need to calculate the approximate current draw of the amplifier you're considering installing.

To calculate the current draw of an amplifier, multiply the number of channels by the RMS watts per channel (a 2 channel amp rated at 300 watts RMS per channel would be 600 watts). Double it to account for amplifier inefficiency (600 watts X 2 = 1200 watts), then divide by the average output Voltage of an alternator, 13.8 volts (1200 divided by 13.8 = 87 amps). Since the average music signal requires about 1/3rd of the average power in a test tone, divide by 3 (87 amps divided by 3 = 29 amps). The result is the amplifier's approximate average current draw.

A fast-and-nasty way to ballpark an amplifier's current draw is to divide the total fuse value of the amp by two. For amplifiers with multiple fuses, the rating of all fuses provided with the amp must be added together. This will likely produce a significantly higher estimate than using the proper formula. Although inaccurate, this will err on the side of safety.

Finally, compare the amplifier's approximate current draw to your vehicle's reserve current capacity to determine if the electrical system can support the amplifier.

If all those numbers are a bit much, here's a simpler way to think about it: an alternator capable of producing 65 amperes is usually adequate for systems up to 270 X 2 watts RMS. A compact car with a 35-amp alternator can accommodate around 150 X 2 watts of power, while a Sport Utility with a 145-amp alternator can handle a 600 X 2 watt system. A capacitor can help if your system is drawing a little too much power. Car audio competitors often replace their vehicle's alternators with heavy-duty upgrades to accommodate big power demands."

The stock alternator will put out 1140 watts.

[fireguy]

200 amps would give you 2400 watts.

awesome, now i guess that gives me an idea as to what my limits are so i'm not wasting money buying stuff the alt won't fully power. thanks

[Twiggy2cents]

I would like to see that alternator that puts out 100 amps at idle. Must be huge.

all the ebay ones are are a different regulator...at least thats what i was told...and if thats the case im sure its real hard on the alternator being that the field around it would still be the same size

[fireguy]

all the ebay ones are are a different regulator...at least thats what i was told...and if thats the case im sure its real hard on the alternator being that the field around it would still be the same size

what do you mean by all the ebay ones?

[Twiggy2cents]

those super heavy duty 200 amp ones just have a mega regulator on them i think

[fireguy]

those super heavy duty 200 amp ones just have a mega regulator on them i think

is this good/bad?

[Twiggy2cents]

well if i was told right then its bad...its working a alternator deigned for 90 amps at 200 amps

[Psychotuner]

English please

[fireguy]

well if i was told right then its bad...its working a alternator deigned for 90 amps at 200 amps

well what the hell? you should know these things for certain lol

[Twiggy2cents]

lol well i was just told this...have you actually seen a real alternator rated at 200 amps...ambulances use two to equal 200 amps and what not...so im sure something the size of the stock one is prolly gonna die soon

[fireguy]

hmm, i guess the van seems more realistic then right now.. i'll have to call the place and check i guess..

[Twiggy2cents]

im not saying they wont work its just from what im told and what ive seen i dont think they would last long

[fireguy]

gay.. well i emailed them about it..

[fireguy]

This is what I got from them:

"Its more than just the regulator that is changed. It's the rotor, stator, basically every thing internally is changed out to get 200 amps."

What do you think?

[Twiggy2cents]

its still all the original size i dont think its possible...maybe but it sounds fishy

[fireguy]

I actually bought that high output one and installed it today. I also got a new serpentine belt and that was quite a fine bitch getting on by myself.. I can definitely tell a difference (or so I think), the headlights and the dash lights seem somehow brighter (or they don't dim period) and my idle seems to be really good, although it never was all that bad.

[Tygen1]

Been trying to learn a little about alternators. It seems what seperates a 95 amp from a 130 amp is how much voltage is being used to excite the coils. It would stand to reason that the 130 amp regulator, when bolted into a 95 amp housing will give you 130 amps. In addtion, the use of a heavy duty 130 amp regulator may take care of regulator failures due to higher current. Just some thoughts that I'm looking into testing out. In 200,000 miles I've lost two alternators, so I'm looking for a way to keep mine from dieing so often.

[Twiggy2cents]

no the actual 130 amp alt is a bigger alt..the 200 one of ebay is the same size as the stock one

[ilarson007]

Does anyone have the ford part number so we can find it used at a j/y or eBay??

[ZX2Fast]

Just call Ford and ask them for it.

[ilarson007]

Ok, than what engine was it off of in the van?

[ZX2Fast]

It was from the E series van with the V6 engine. I think it was an early to mid 90 model.

[ZX2 Sleeper]

I have a alternator i pulled from a windstar, i have no idea if its the 200 amp one. I don't really need it because i took out that big gangster sound system.

[ford88mustang]

no, for the heavy duty zx2 one it's just a one year. the e series van ones come with a three year warranty every place in town here though

EDIT: idk how many amps i need, i want to push a 2500 watt rms sub and probably amp my speakers too. do you happen to know how to determine that? i swear there's some formula..

Are you running kicker L7's?

[fireguy]

i'm not pushin much of anything at the moment due to lack of funds... i had an l7 in my other zx2 and wasn't impressed, i don't think the stock alt is really good for more than 1000 rms though which is what the 15's are rated at

[Buster]

I have a alternator i pulled from a windstar, i have no idea if its the 200 amp one. I don't really need it because i took out that big gangster sound system.

I don't know about the Windstar part, but the E-150 with a V6 is the van that has the same casing as our alternators.

[Buster]

Installed it yesterday evening with no problems, except getting the stupid belt back on.

Anyone have any tips or tricks? :D



The van alt fit fine. It's barely bigger than the stock one, so I used 2 washers on each bolt hole, not sure if I needed them or not, but they're in. Only added about 1/8" anyways. I removed the extender from the old one before trading it in, but I didn't even need it on the new one. The wire reaches to the connection point on the van alternator with no problem.

Got it from Autozone for $139.99 after the $35.00 core. Lifetime warranty too.

:)

Once I get the belt back on, I'll report on how the car runs. I'm excited. :D

[droptoutzx2]

yea let us know my car struggles with the bass on

[Buster]

Mine didn't, it just died on me suddenly.

Strangely, I NEVER saw the battery charging warning light come on. The airbag light came on, radio went off, gauges dropped, car died...BUT never saw the red battery light.

I thought that was strange, because I've seen that before (this was the 3rd alt my ZX2 killed).

You should probably go ahead and upgrade. :D

I may be pulling my system out and selling it on here anyways, because with a baby I can't use it with the bass up, plus, I could use the trunk room for the stroller so I don't have to sit it on the back seat beside of him.

I doubt the system killed my alt anyways, I lost 2 of them before I put it in, plus it was only a 10 with 2 amps (one bridged for bass, one for highs).

[droptoutzx2]

oh i have 3 amps ha, 2-400watt for my subs and 1-320 for my highs, and i have a volt gauge so if i am just idling i can watch it go from 14 to almost 12.8 real quick

[Buster]

YIKES!

Have a capacitor? You need one or two. :D


I can't wait to get this belt back on and get the car running...not only did I upgrade the alt, but I pulled the knock sensor too. :D

[Buster]

UPDATE - last week when I got the belt on and started up the car for the first time, the alternator had a whining noise from the inside and smoke started coming out of the housing.

BAD ALTERNATOR from the shelf. ARRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!

I think I'll just trade it back in for a regular stock one for a ZX2. It fit, but was a little tricky to get the belt on since it was slightly larger. I just don't want to fool with it any more so I'll probably get another ZX2 alt and just slap that on. At least this was from Autozone with a lifetime warranty.

Sounded like there were bad bearings in it.

[Gregersonke]

Wow, I'm sitting pretty well with the alternators in my life.

94 cherokee with 165k on the alternator

98 firebird with 120k on the alternator

1991 honda civic with 190k on the alternator

1998 zx2 with 110k on the alternator

2001 honda minivan with 110k on the alternator though its starting to make noise.

[Buster]

Yeah, I've had bad luck.

Great luck with cars otherwise.


This van alt fit with washers and a little struggle with the belt...it just smoked and screamed the first time I started it up. ARRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHH! :D

[Buster]

Final verdict based on my "test" upgrade:


Don't get this alternator. Maybe that part number is made differently from the time it was tested by the thread starter, but this alternator will NOT work on a ZX2.

1. Housing is slightly larger. Holes line up but the slightly longer distance contributes to getting the belt back on being a major pain in the butt.

2. The pulley was HUGE compared to that in the stock ZX2 alternator. This greatly contributes to getting the belt back on being a major pain in the butt and I believe this also caused the immediate failure to the alternator that tested OK at the time of purchase due to the pulley turning at a different rate than the smaller piece on the stock ZX2 alternator.

3. Yes, the extender can be removed from the stock alt and moved to the new one, but the new one has a plastic piece that was blocking the ability to put the extender on. I could not get it off, so I had to cut it back with a dremel to fit the extender on tight.

4. Failed IMMEDIATELY on startup. Stock replacement for it was fine. For some reason, it's just not compatible with the ZX2, or at least MY ZX2. The housing mounts lined up, the connections all fit (with slight modification to the grounding connection with the bolt) but it burnt itself up on the first startup. There was a whining noise accompanied with the smoke, so I believe it was due to the much larger pulley turning at the wrong speed. I see in the original picture that the pulleys WERE identical in size, but I bought the exact same part # from Autozone and the pulley was huge, at least twice the size of that on the regular stock ZX2 alternator. When I returned it, they said that it looked like an alternator used on Explorers. Thank God it had a lifetime warranty and they exchanged it for free for the proper alternator for me. It helped that an old friend of mine was working at the counter that evening, filling in from another store. :D

That experiment wasted a TON of time for me. Oh well, live and learn.

[AZN_ZX2]

There's other people that have done this with success. (First page) So I guess it is the wrong part number or they gave you the wrong part?

[ZX2Fast]

Failing at idle can't be because of the pulley. I think it was just a bad alt to begin with. They are rebuilt afterall. Yeah, I think you got a bogus part. There is no reason the pulley size should have been different.

[Buster]

There's other people that have done this with success. (First page) So I guess it is the wrong part number or they gave you the wrong part?

I know. That's why I tried it.

I copied that exact part # and it matched on the alt they gave me.

The pulley was not the same one in the picture and it burnt itself up on startup.

They must have changed the part, or stock them with different pulleys and I got the wrong one. It was also a giant pain to get the belt on.


With all the time I wasted on it, I'm back to a stock one.

[AZN_ZX2]

I know. That's why I tried it.

I copied that exact part # and it matched on the alt they gave me.

The pulley was not the same one in the picture and it burnt itself up on startup.

They must have changed the part, or stock them with different pulleys and I got the wrong one. It was also a giant pain to get the belt on.


With all the time I wasted on it, I'm back to a stock one.

Yeah I don't blame you. I'm kind of disappointed because I wanted to run a 3000 watt inverter as well as 2 10" subs in my car and this was problem solved, but uh yeah

[yellow2000S/R]

I did this.

Some stuff I discovered/tips:

Housing is a good amount larger (like previously mentioned, just stands out more when you see it in person).

Have a 2nd person to help.

You MUST use 2 washers between alternator and mounts on engine to space it so it clears the flange for the intake manifold.

The pulley on the van alternator is around 1/8" larger in diameter (rough guess, just held them pulley to pulley) but the pulleys are the correct width and groove spacing/count.

Cut the random tab off the intake runner that is used for nothing. This will allow instal of larger alternator to be much easier. My dad did not do this and ended up scratching the strut tower pretty good.

Do this when you change your oil. It will make it MUCH easier to get to the bottom bolts for the alternator and also place the washers in between.

[yellow2000S/R]

Taking apart the alternator:


Showing ZX2 alternator

http://www.endlessmotorsports.net/Services/Alternator/1.jpg


Compared to Van alternator: You can see the red positive wire surround. A previous member decided to just dremel off the high areas... My father/I decided to remove it in case something went wrong and we have to return the alternator, we can put it back to how it came.

http://www.endlessmotorsports.net/Services/Alternator/2.jpg



Start of How-To for removing the red item:

Remove 3 housing bolts.

http://www.endlessmotorsports.net/Services/Alternator/3.jpg

http://www.endlessmotorsports.net/Services/Alternator/4.jpg


Remove 4 Torx bolts holding regulator in place.

http://www.endlessmotorsports.net/Services/Alternator/5.jpg


3rd: Once bolts are removed, grab regulator and lift outer edge 1st and then pull up and slide away from center. Once removed, take a flat head screw driver and start working around the casing to pop the rear section off. Once you get it spaced some, use another on the opposite side so it doesn't rock. There are bearings that are pressed in under the cap and the last thing you want to do is damage them or possibly bend the shaft. TAKE YOUR TIME. Dont jam the screw driver in and mess up any internals.

Once popped apart, it will look like this:

http://www.endlessmotorsports.net/Services/Alternator/6.jpg

http://www.endlessmotorsports.net/Services/Alternator/7.jpg

http://www.endlessmotorsports.net/Services/Alternator/8.jpg


Little red thing...

http://www.endlessmotorsports.net/Services/Alternator/9.jpg



Re-Assemble:

Place rear of casing back where it belongs and use a socket and lightly tap the casing back on. It does not take much.

http://www.endlessmotorsports.net/Services/Alternator/10.jpg

http://www.endlessmotorsports.net/Services/Alternator/11.jpg


NOTE: The brushes. These are what wear out most of the time in alternators. Replace these, and the alternator will probably work again.

http://www.endlessmotorsports.net/Services/Alternator/12.jpg


Take a paperclip and straighten the end and use it to align the brushes.

http://www.endlessmotorsports.net/Services/Alternator/13.jpg


Pull back on paperclip to compress the springs and slide the regulator in opposite of removal. Part way through install you will have to remove the paperclip.

http://www.endlessmotorsports.net/Services/Alternator/14.jpg


Installed:

http://www.endlessmotorsports.net/Services/Alternator/15.jpg


Put Torx bolts back in for regulator (just need to be snug) and put the 3 housing bolts back in.

Pic showing the positive post with the red piece removed.

http://www.endlessmotorsports.net/Services/Alternator/16.jpg

Compare

http://www.endlessmotorsports.net/Services/Alternator/1.jpg

[zx2loon]

Interesting stuff there Yellow....


Now, is it installed and running??

[yellow2000S/R]

Interesting stuff there Yellow....


Now, is it installed and running??

Yea, its installed and running.

The car is having a few issues, but it could be a combo of a few things. My dad took it to work today and is having issues.

A/C cuts in and out. I noticed this last night while I was adjusting the stereo when I got it done.

My father said he could be cruising along, and the A/C doesn't work unless: A - It is mid-higher RPM, and B - There is a light to mild load on the engine (ie. higher gear, higher throttle input like going up hill).

I guess I'll be measuring the output of the alternator here tonight and if its not enough, I'll be swapping a ZX2 pulley on (hopefully it fits). I'd hate that to be the reason because if he puts a UDP on the crank (he's thinking about getting a Powder UDP and hopefully ODP), that could really suck.



ANOTHER issue.

I put my XHG3 pcm in from my S/R in place of the computer that was in it. Ever since then, the radiator fan comes on after a few seconds of the car running, doesn't matter if its hot or cold startup. Idle at initial startup is close to 2k rpm and then it drops ~to 1,250, and if you rev it or just move a little, the idle drops down to the 800 range where it should be.


I'll be changing the PCM back, hoping its causing the issue since the car is a early 99 and has a 4 wire MAF... could it also be causing the A/C issue?

[perrydog]

please keep us informed...i am replacing my alt and if i can just go to autozone and grab one life will be easier

[yellow2000S/R]

Put the MTA5 back in. Car idles fine, A/C works as soon as you turn it on, idle raises and everything when A/C is on like normal, fan isnt kicking on when car is cold like it was.

Looks like everything is working great now. Something must be wrong with my XHG3 or there is more of a difference between pre mid 99 and late 99+ than just the 4 wire MAF/separate IAT sensor.

[vega]

wow thats very good news !!!

is the MTA5 is a pre mid 99 ??? (i hope it works with NGP0)

vega

[mellowness65]

yea mta's are 98 and early 99 pcm's

[perrydog]

is all well still with the alt? i plan on doin today on my 98 if so

[Buster]

I just dremeled the red piece off, but the alt didn't work in my car anyways.

[yellow2000S/R]

All is still fine.

I have yet to measure the output at idle... but the gauge lights do still dim slightly. It doesnt help that the pulley is larger than the stock ZX2 one.

[deadbuzzard]

well cant you take the pully off and stick the odp on there?

[JayS]

Yellow, how much larger is the new pulley, approx? And what are you running stereo-wise? It seems with a little work this alt. is a good idea. I know my three month old "new" not refurb'd alt is already dying from the system I have, so some comparison figures would be nice.

[Buster]

Yellow, how much larger is the new pulley, approx? And what are you running stereo-wise? It seems with a little work this alt. is a good idea. I know my three month old "new" not refurb'd alt is already dying from the system I have, so some comparison figures would be nice.

The pulley on the one I tried was significantly larger, so much that it was a major pain to get the belt on it. It was at least twice the diameter, but I did not measure it. It was a huge difference though.

The alt burned up, smoking and whining immediately the FIRST time I started the car up with it installed. Could have been a bad unit itself, but I went back to the stock alt and it was easy to get the belt on and it's been fine for several months now. Also, the lights do not dim as yellow says his do with the van alt.

[yellow2000S/R]

The pulley on the one I tried was significantly larger, so much that it was a major pain to get the belt on it. It was at least twice the diameter, but I did not measure it. It was a huge difference though.

The alt burned up, smoking and whining immediately the FIRST time I started the car up with it installed. Could have been a bad unit itself, but I went back to the stock alt and it was easy to get the belt on and it's been fine for several months now. Also, the lights do not dim as yellow says his do with the van alt.

LOL, you had the wrong pulley.

The pulley on my dads is approx 3/16" larger diameter. I'd recommend putting at least a stock pulley on..

As for system, he has:

Head Unit: Pioneer Premier DEH-P700BT with Pioneer GEX-P10HD HD Radio unit, USB to I-Pod.
Sub Woofer: RE Audio SE-12 in a custom ported box tuned to 35hz
Sub Amp: JL Audio 500/1v2
Front Speakers: JL Audio TR650-Cxi - had to cut door opening 1/2" larger and make a "spacer" out of 1/2" MDF (too deep of speaker)
Rear Speakers: JL Audio TR570-Cxi
Speaker Amp: JL AUDIO 300/4v2

[JayS]

Buster, I read about what happened with your alt., and that really sucks. But I have had bad alt's straight from the store before myself, and it's always been extremely close to what you described.

Yellow, I have a very similar system, 100 watts more total. Thank you very much for posting it up. Did your dad's car have the light dimming problem before installing the van alt.?

If I put the stock pulley on the van alt. it will reduce the output somewhat, partially defeating the purpose. The odp's for our altenators are larger than stock. I know that more than the pulley is responsible for voltage output, but want all I can get. I have a belt that is 1" larger than the one I put on with my esslinger udp, but my tensioner also has some room for adjustment. When my alt. does go out, or if I can convince autozone to let me exchange the one I have plus the difference towards the new one I will post up the results. And which belt I ended up using.

[yellow2000S/R]

His lights dim unless its revving near 3k + which is why I said a smaller pulley would help a little. At idle the rpm drops ~200 under long and low notes... I'm not in his car that much, probably under a dozen times since he bought it 3 months ago.

[Buster]

LOL, you had the wrong pulley.

The pulley on my dads is approx 3/16" larger diameter. I'd recommend putting at least a stock pulley on..
[/B]


Yeah, found that out. It came on the alt though and it was the EXACT same model # posted on that photo in this thread, so if I got one like that, it's very possible others could as well.

Glad it puked immediately since it was wrong anyways. I'm happy with my stock one, as long as it works.

Wish I had taken a picture of it...the pulley was HUGE.