The_underclassman
07-06-2010, 03:13 PM
Credit goes to Doug, aka Zetec00
To start off, the purpose of this parts list, is to inform those who want to turbocharge their ZX2, and get them started in the right direction. This is by no means a step by step how-to. If anyone has anything to add, let me know and I will add it. Also, I am always happy to answer any questions anyone may have about turbocharging our cars. Just send me a PM HERE:
http://teamzx2.com/private.php?do=newpm&u=4984
Induction - Cone filter, intake piping, silicone couplers & t-bolt clamps, charge piping, intercooler, blow off valve, maf
Fuel - pump, injectors
PCV - catch can, baffle
Exhaust - turbo manifold, wastegate, downpipe, dump pipe, exhaust
Turbo
Oiling - feed line, drain line, fittings (head, turbo, pan)
Drivetrain - clutch, motor mounts
Cooling - thermostat, fan
Tuning - Xcal, wideband, gauges
Miscellaneous - boost hoses, vacuum tees & adapters
Advice
1. The intake to the compressor inlet is pretty self explanatory. I used 2.5" charge pipes. You can use a Greddy or HKS blow off valve, but I recommend an HKS. Most people use a Ford Cobra MAF, but you will have to wire in an IAT sensor pigtail, as those have the MAF separate from the IAT.
2. Depending on your power goals, a Mustang GT fuel pump will be adequate, or if you can find an SVT Focus pump, those are even better. I would recommend just buying a set of Ford Racing 42# fuel injectors. These are the ones with the green tops.
3. You will need an oil catch can, as forced induction produces more blow by gases. If you can, try to keep the stock PCV baffle. If not, there are a couple companies that make replacements that you can use.
4. You'll need a turbo manifold with the same turbine inlet flange as your turbocharger. The most popular is the T3 variant. The wastegate is what allows exhaust gases to bypass the turbo and maintain a steady boost pressure. The downpipe, dump pipe, and connections to the exhaust system on your car will all require custom fabrication. A minimum of 2.5" exhaust is recommended for the turbo back exhaust.
5. You don't need a large turbo to get 200whp. Use a small one, and it will get you to that power level and it will spool fast.
6. Most people take the turbo oil feed from the head. There are two 1/8" NPT plugs on the driver's side of the head. One is behind the coil pack, and the other is above the thermostat housing. -3AN or -4AN is standard for the oil feed on the turbo, there are many 1/8" to -3AN/-4AN adapters available. You'll also need to install an oil restrictor, so the oil pressure doesn't blow the seals on the turbo. -10AN is standard for the oil drain from the turbo. You'll need to drain the oil from the turbo back to the oil pan or windage tray. I'd recommend just getting a -10AN bung welded to the pan or windage tray. Do it once, do it right.
7. At the very least, you'll need to install a clutch. The stock one will hold up, but only for awhile. It wouldn't hurt to install some Energy Suspension motor mounts either.
8. It's a good idea to install a 180 degree thermostat, the stock one is 195 degree. You'll also need to install a slim fan, because I doubt you'll be able to fit a turbo down there with the stock fan. Some guys have had to move their radiator to a new location, but I was able to keep it in the stock location, so it is possible that no modification is needed to the radiator.
9. For tuning, the most popular option is SCT, but Sniper also has stuff available, and some people on here swear by them. For SCT, you'll need an Xcal 2 or 3, as well as a wideband controller. I installed an Innovate LC-1 wideband, and I highly recommend it. The wiring is not that difficult, just read and familiarize yourself with which wires are for what. At the very least, you'll need a boost gauge & air/fuel ratio gauge. An oil pressure gauge is also a very good idea.
10. You'll also need boost hoses, vacuum tees & adapters to fit our intake manifold.
11. Custom fabrication will be required for a turbo project, but it is not too difficult. Find a good exhaust shop, welding shop & machine shop. All these will help you alot in the long run. Try to keep as much of the car as stock as possible! Also, unless you're making huge hp, there is just no need to change the intake manifold, port the head, or get turbo cams, etc. The turbo is the power adder, and all that other stuff is not required. The Zetec, in stock form, provides good torque at low rpms, which helps spool the turbo quicker, and by doing that other stuff you take away some of that torque down low, and you increase spool time.
Here are some good websites that I bought parts from.
http://www.atpturbo.com
http://www.siliconeintakes.com
http://www.summitracing.com/
http://focus.c-f-m.com/forcedinduction.aspx
http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/
To start off, the purpose of this parts list, is to inform those who want to turbocharge their ZX2, and get them started in the right direction. This is by no means a step by step how-to. If anyone has anything to add, let me know and I will add it. Also, I am always happy to answer any questions anyone may have about turbocharging our cars. Just send me a PM HERE:
http://teamzx2.com/private.php?do=newpm&u=4984
Induction - Cone filter, intake piping, silicone couplers & t-bolt clamps, charge piping, intercooler, blow off valve, maf
Fuel - pump, injectors
PCV - catch can, baffle
Exhaust - turbo manifold, wastegate, downpipe, dump pipe, exhaust
Turbo
Oiling - feed line, drain line, fittings (head, turbo, pan)
Drivetrain - clutch, motor mounts
Cooling - thermostat, fan
Tuning - Xcal, wideband, gauges
Miscellaneous - boost hoses, vacuum tees & adapters
Advice
1. The intake to the compressor inlet is pretty self explanatory. I used 2.5" charge pipes. You can use a Greddy or HKS blow off valve, but I recommend an HKS. Most people use a Ford Cobra MAF, but you will have to wire in an IAT sensor pigtail, as those have the MAF separate from the IAT.
2. Depending on your power goals, a Mustang GT fuel pump will be adequate, or if you can find an SVT Focus pump, those are even better. I would recommend just buying a set of Ford Racing 42# fuel injectors. These are the ones with the green tops.
3. You will need an oil catch can, as forced induction produces more blow by gases. If you can, try to keep the stock PCV baffle. If not, there are a couple companies that make replacements that you can use.
4. You'll need a turbo manifold with the same turbine inlet flange as your turbocharger. The most popular is the T3 variant. The wastegate is what allows exhaust gases to bypass the turbo and maintain a steady boost pressure. The downpipe, dump pipe, and connections to the exhaust system on your car will all require custom fabrication. A minimum of 2.5" exhaust is recommended for the turbo back exhaust.
5. You don't need a large turbo to get 200whp. Use a small one, and it will get you to that power level and it will spool fast.
6. Most people take the turbo oil feed from the head. There are two 1/8" NPT plugs on the driver's side of the head. One is behind the coil pack, and the other is above the thermostat housing. -3AN or -4AN is standard for the oil feed on the turbo, there are many 1/8" to -3AN/-4AN adapters available. You'll also need to install an oil restrictor, so the oil pressure doesn't blow the seals on the turbo. -10AN is standard for the oil drain from the turbo. You'll need to drain the oil from the turbo back to the oil pan or windage tray. I'd recommend just getting a -10AN bung welded to the pan or windage tray. Do it once, do it right.
7. At the very least, you'll need to install a clutch. The stock one will hold up, but only for awhile. It wouldn't hurt to install some Energy Suspension motor mounts either.
8. It's a good idea to install a 180 degree thermostat, the stock one is 195 degree. You'll also need to install a slim fan, because I doubt you'll be able to fit a turbo down there with the stock fan. Some guys have had to move their radiator to a new location, but I was able to keep it in the stock location, so it is possible that no modification is needed to the radiator.
9. For tuning, the most popular option is SCT, but Sniper also has stuff available, and some people on here swear by them. For SCT, you'll need an Xcal 2 or 3, as well as a wideband controller. I installed an Innovate LC-1 wideband, and I highly recommend it. The wiring is not that difficult, just read and familiarize yourself with which wires are for what. At the very least, you'll need a boost gauge & air/fuel ratio gauge. An oil pressure gauge is also a very good idea.
10. You'll also need boost hoses, vacuum tees & adapters to fit our intake manifold.
11. Custom fabrication will be required for a turbo project, but it is not too difficult. Find a good exhaust shop, welding shop & machine shop. All these will help you alot in the long run. Try to keep as much of the car as stock as possible! Also, unless you're making huge hp, there is just no need to change the intake manifold, port the head, or get turbo cams, etc. The turbo is the power adder, and all that other stuff is not required. The Zetec, in stock form, provides good torque at low rpms, which helps spool the turbo quicker, and by doing that other stuff you take away some of that torque down low, and you increase spool time.
Here are some good websites that I bought parts from.
http://www.atpturbo.com
http://www.siliconeintakes.com
http://www.summitracing.com/
http://focus.c-f-m.com/forcedinduction.aspx
http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/