Jun 13 Midnight Madness

[potatoman]

it ended up being a pretty sweet. all the storms rolled out so there wasnt any delays. zx2Cambo, ahhhhwoooaaa, cody(dont rem his name on here), and i all were there.

my first time ever to the track running with the lights that just all flash yellow at once then green (kinda trickier at first). i wasnt dissapointed i guess.

1st run
r/t - .577
60' - 2.914
330 - 7.554
1/8 - 11.307
mph - 66.27
1000 - 14.493
1/4 - 17.198
mph - 83.72

2nd run
r/t - .491
60' - 2.581
330 - 7.187
1/8 - 10.938
mph - 66.49
1000 - 14.109
1/4 - 16.800
mph - 83.69

3rd run
r/t - .403
60' - 2.595
330 - 7.199
1/8 - 10.940
mph - 66.44
1000 - 14.116
1/4 - 16.818
mph - 83.26

4rth run
r/t - .440
60' - 2.651
330 - 7.254
1/8 - 11.004
mph - 66.51
1000 - 14.178
1/4 - 16.865
mph - 84.20

after my 2nd run i deflated my tires from 43 to 33 psi bc i thought it might help with wheel hop off the line. but it didnt seem to do anything. i launched from about 2k eachtime i think.

on the 4rth run my car seemed like it wanted to die as i pulled up to the line. im not sure why. the battery lights started to light up like it was going to as i staged but it was right as i was starten to brake torque it so it came alive again. not sure what was wrong. maybe loose battery connection.

mods are in the sig.

[potatoman]

noone has any comment at all?
is this good? bad? normal? im not 100% sure.

[Mike]

Good runs I guess. An MTX would help ya.

[rlbzx2]

I need to take mine out to the track...I'm curious what I would run...I have no clue :(

[Mike]

Same here. I'm sure it wouldn't be too great, but would just be great to know.

[potatoman]

yeah mtx would help. but for some reason i love racing my atx. it wasnt too much pressure lol. like it leaves the time mostly up to the planning of upgrades and not as much to the driver. maybe ill get an mtx later tho.

do u have atx or mtx rlbzx2?

[Jaybird]

What was the temp and humidity like? I forgot to check you location befor I posted this (altitude?). For an ATX not too bad. If you get SCT I bet you could be around a 16.3 to 16.2 (maybe better depending on temp). Also, if you can get that 60' down to maybe a 2.4 or 2.3 you will be rocking. Where does the car shift? Are you trying to stage just as the second set of yellows light up (gives you just a little more room to get going before the timer starts)? So many variables that can help improve even an ATX.

[potatoman]

my time slip says
temp F. - 0
Relative Humidity - 0
Absolute Barometer - 0

lol. ill try and see if i can find out what it was. i know it was hot. it got in the mid 90s that day i think but this was from like 10 until just after midnight that i raced. since im near stl the humidity is always high.

it was like 5 miles from downtown st. louis. ill check on the elavation of that too.

im getten new tires soon probably. but idk if that would help with my 60' or not. i was getten some wheel hop/spin or somethin off the line so i didnt launch at more than 2k rpms. should i go higher?

i dont rem where the 1-2 shift was. i manually shifted 2-3 at about 6.5k idk if itll go higher than that or not.

there was no second light. just both people go up. the 2 top lights light when ur good. then all yellows flash and the green goes. i would pull all the way up first (i think its supposed to be polite to let the other person get there first light lit then u go to the 2nd but i didnt lol bc i was a little nervous). as soon as the yellows flashed i let off the brake and went on the gas. not mashing it i dont think but close.

and do u really think that a SCT would help that much??? .5-.6 off? wow that would be nice. ive got a stage1/2 shift kit and ran stage 2 all night. and ive got the knock sensor unplugged and a 10k ohm resistor wired in with the IAT. i know a SCT would help alot but half a sec? i would love that.

btw jaybird, u have any issues with getten the sct (not x2 or x3) to work right on ur car being a '98? and have u ran ur car before?

[potatoman]

humidity about 87 temp about 72

[potatoman]

Elevation: 43.9
Azimuth: 196.7

[Jaybird]

I have been down the track prob about 50 plus times in the ATX ZX2 during its ten year life so far. My best has been a 16.1 I think there is still room for improvement as my SCT chips does not bump up the fuel as much as the ECT POT's mod did. As far as my chip goes, I got the 4 bank chip. I had an X2 sent to me to read the program code which was saved on the X2 and mailed back. Fortunately I have not had any problems, but I do know my computer was updated at least once from its old KVT4 to NYM1 which I am now running. With my mods the SCT gives me about a .6 of a second better 1/4 mile (I have run it with & w/out the tune). It is a worthwhile investement even for daily driving imo.

[potatoman]

i think my comps the kvt4. what do u mean updated? reflashed? i might end up getting a new maf and if i cant get my a/c to start working then there shouldnt be any problem with getten a later year pcm.

that sounds like awesome results from the tune. maybe ill look into getting one.

[ZeeEcksTwo]

my first time ever to the track running with the lights that just all flash yellow at once then green (kinda trickier at first). i wasnt dissapointed i guess.


That's called a Pro Tree when all 3 yellow timing lights go on at the same time.

[potatoman]

That's called a Pro Tree when all 3 yellow timing lights go on at the same time.

thats what i thought but i figured i wouldnt try and act like a new what i was talkin about. lol.

[Jaybird]

i think my comps the kvt4. what do u mean updated? reflashed? i might end up getting a new maf and if i cant get my a/c to start working then there shouldnt be any problem with getten a later year pcm.

that sounds like awesome results from the tune. maybe ill look into getting one.


Yes, reflashed. The bastards (Ford) have a habit of doing it and not even telling you or placing a new sticker over the old code (happend to me). Your 2-3 shift is either just fine or even a little too high as we don't really make any power up there. It does however help to place the car into a better spot in the powerband IIRC. I pretty much powerbrake up to MAYBE 1500 rpm, much more and you will either bog or spin the tires too much. You will benefit I beleive by shifting from 1-2 at atleast 6K (my SCT has it at 6500). The probelm with the ATX's is that 3rd gear is a sloth. It seems to be for the best to run 1st & second and much as possible, with my SCT I have just a marginal amount of track left when I shift into 3rd. I also do the L to D manual shifting and keep in in D until the finish (L should let you run to higher rpms in 1st). You then shift it into D before you run out of 2nd gear or you will hit the rev limiter. I noticed the humidity for you was rather high. Once that and the temp are down you should again expect a little decrease in your time. Also, if you have some lighter smaller wheels try them out along with as much weight reduction as possible. Like I said, it may be an ATX, but there is still alot that can be done.

[DominatingZX2]

there was no second light. just both people go up. the 2 top lights light when ur good. then all yellows flash and the green goes. i would pull all the way up first (i think its supposed to be polite to let the other person get there first light lit then u go to the 2nd but i didnt lol bc i was a little nervous). as soon as the yellows flashed i let off the brake and went on the gas. not mashing it i dont think but close.



You missed his point, he was telling you to "shallow" stage. When you are staging, roll in so you light the first bulb. Then, start inching forward into the second one, and at the very instant you light the second bulb, STOP. Actually, if you really do it right, the second bulb will just start to flicker as you're pulling up, and as soon as it goes solid you're good to go. Good call on wanting to wait for the other guy to pre-stage before going all the way in, though, most newbies don't know that and it bugs the hell out of me.

Purpose of shallow staging? It gives you a bit of a running start on the ET clock. The ET clock doesn't start until your tire fully clears the second beam; by staging as shallow as possible, you are carrying as much speed as you can when the clock starts. It will hurt your reaction time, but during T&T that's meaningless.

[potatoman]

Yes, reflashed. The bastards (Ford) have a habit of doing it and not even telling you or placing a new sticker over the old code (happend to me). Your 2-3 shift is either just fine or even a little too high as we don't really make any power up there. It does however help to place the car into a better spot in the powerband IIRC. I pretty much powerbrake up to MAYBE 1500 rpm, much more and you will either bog or spin the tires too much. You will benefit I beleive by shifting from 1-2 at atleast 6K (my SCT has it at 6500). The probelm with the ATX's is that 3rd gear is a sloth. It seems to be for the best to run 1st & second and much as possible, with my SCT I have just a marginal amount of track left when I shift into 3rd. I also do the L to D manual shifting and keep in in D until the finish (L should let you run to higher rpms in 1st). You then shift it into D before you run out of 2nd gear or you will hit the rev limiter. I noticed the humidity for you was rather high. Once that and the temp are down you should again expect a little decrease in your time. Also, if you have some lighter smaller wheels try them out along with as much weight reduction as possible. Like I said, it may be an ATX, but there is still alot that can be done.

only launch from 1.5k? hmmm. ill try that next time and see if it helps.
the rims ive got are stock 14s(the 5 spoke ones) i dont really have $$$ for any others at the moment.
and the humidity around here in the summer is always high.

[potatoman]

You missed his point, he was telling you to "shallow" stage. When you are staging, roll in so you light the first bulb. Then, start inching forward into the second one, and at the very instant you light the second bulb, STOP. Actually, if you really do it right, the second bulb will just start to flicker as you're pulling up, and as soon as it goes solid you're good to go. Good call on wanting to wait for the other guy to pre-stage before going all the way in, though, most newbies don't know that and it bugs the hell out of me.

Purpose of shallow staging? It gives you a bit of a running start on the ET clock. The ET clock doesn't start until your tire fully clears the second beam; by staging as shallow as possible, you are carrying as much speed as you can when the clock starts. It will hurt your reaction time, but during T&T that's meaningless.

so ur saying to just stay as far back as possibly when im staging then? i kind of did that anyways. i would light the first bulb then creep up til the 2nd one lit then stop. i figured i didnt wanna go to deep and have it turn off or somethin. lol

[Jaybird]

only launch from 1.5k? hmmm. ill try that next time and see if it helps.
the rims ive got are stock 14s(the 5 spoke ones) i dont really have $$$ for any others at the moment.
and the humidity around here in the summer is always high.

If you can go with steelies you would be even better off so long as you do not run into traction problems. Like Dominating mentioned, you want to just barely have that second set of lights go on. The only issue I end up with that are the jitters. Even though I am in an ATX I do not always have my full attention where it should be and do not line up as optimal as I could be. Once I get my 1st run in I usually settle down and concentrate better. Make sure you ask questions about anything you are unsure of when you are at the track. The majority of people there are willing to provide info and help. Keep us updated on any more passes you make too!

[potatoman]

wait why would steelies be better? arnt my alloys wheels lighter? and with the smaller size it should make for a better time with an atx.
and i dont know if i could have those 2nd lights go on much less. i would creep up there. mostly. but i wasnt aware of that whole concept so i wasnt trying to do it. ill try that next time and maybe i can go from 16.800 to 16.7** hopefully.
i probably wont run again for a while. maybe if it gets colder out but that would be in like september. and i dont have any mods im planning on adding soon that would effect my time.

[DominatingZX2]

so ur saying to just stay as far back as possibly when im staging then? i kind of did that anyways. i would light the first bulb then creep up til the 2nd one lit then stop. i figured i didnt wanna go to deep and have it turn off or somethin. lol

Exactly right.

And as far as rolling "too far" in...if you roll far enough to where the first bulb goes off, that's called deep staging. The advantage to that can be a quicker reaction time, and you basically have less overall ground to cover (even if we are just talking inches). Disadvantage: you will run a slower E.T., and most tracks actually outlaw it in competition. It can be a good weapon to throw your opponent off, though, it usually messes up their rythym if they're not expecting it.

And as Jaybird mentioned, if you have any more questions please ask. I've done this A LOT, every vehicle I have owned has made at least one pass down the track. Well, everything but my new truck, but I'm just waiting to get more than 1200 miles on it first. :twisted:

[ZeeEcksTwo]

Exactly right.

And as far as rolling "too far" in...if you roll far enough to where the first bulb goes off, that's called deep staging. The advantage to that can be a quicker reaction time, and you basically have less overall ground to cover (even if we are just talking inches). Disadvantage: you will run a slower E.T., and most tracks actually outlaw it in competition. It can be a good weapon to throw your opponent off, though, it usually messes up their rythym if they're not expecting it.

And as Jaybird mentioned, if you have any more questions please ask. I've done this A LOT, every vehicle I have owned has made at least one pass down the track. Well, everything but my new truck, but I'm just waiting to get more than 1200 miles on it first. :twisted:


I'm pretty sure Deep Staging helps the ET, while Shallow Staging helps the ES.

[DominatingZX2]

I'm pretty sure Deep Staging helps the ET, while Shallow Staging helps the ES.

Think about it again. When you shallow stage, you are starting as far back as possible. So when your front tire finally clears the second beam (thereby stopping the reaction time clock and starting the E.T. clock) you have already gained as much speed you could. You are, in effect, getting a running start on the quarter mile. Granted, it's only 1-2 mph at most, but it is something. Ever watch arena football? It's kinda like the receiver that can be moving towards the line at the snap. :lol:

And what is ES???

[ZeeEcksTwo]

Elasped Speed

I wonder why my GTI gets better times when I deep stage it, vs when I shallow stage it? Hmm. I don't race my ZX2 anymore; pointless.

[potatoman]

well ill try both next time and see which works best.
itll prob be a while tho