A/C fix..anyone?

[5spdzx2]

This thread could fit in 3 places but i picked this one.

Anyone have the old how two for the ccrm bypass to fix the a/c? Or possibly could just type it out? I was going to do it and see if it worked for me when it warmed up like it has but then it was lost in the old website. My a/c had the same symptoms the how-to explained so im thinking this will help. Thanks.

(maybe if someone has the info this could then be moved to how-to or maybe a brand new thread should just be started.)

[ChillinZX]

what was the exact topic name of it? I'll google archive it and post it here.

[5spdzx2]

man i cant remember it..maybe.. "ccrm a/c fix" someone else may know the exact name. i wish i did

[5spdzx2]

i didnt think google searching would find it..but i did find this..
http://www.ford-forums.com/ford-escort/4569-2000-ford-escort-constant-control-relay-module-ccrm.html
and this..
http://www.fordforum.com/m_2528/tm.htm
this...
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Ford-Repair-811/f_4519301.htm
lastly...you get the point and i think theres enough here to figure it out now..
http://www.automotiveforums.com/t504830.html

google search "ccrm a/c fix" (first couple listings)

[5spdzx2]

my bad for posting this since it was so easy to find, excuse my ignorance. maybe this could be transfered into the how-to though at one point for other people.

[ilarson007]

i've got a question: is there anyway to visually see that the clutch isn't engaging and know that the CCRM failed?

[5spdzx2]

Yes, just take a look at the compressor while the car and a/c is on. If the middle section of the compressor does not spin then its not engaging (you can see this from looking down into the engine bay). Then you should open the CCRM up and check the solder connection on the relay. To be honest i didnt even look at the compressor, i just opened the CCRM up and saw it was bad and fixed it. It really only takes a couple minutes to get it out. If you have a drill press you can pop those 'rivets' off in no time and your then you'll have the board opened.

After this i closed the board back up by using a few little bolts and nuts to put in place of the old rivets. You'll have to scrape away the silicon also to make a solder connection obviously, but it comes off easy. This really only took me about 10-15 minutes to do, and it saved me hundreds to get my a/c back. After two summers without it im thankful i took the little time to check it out.

[ilarson007]

ok, cool... and where is this mysterious CCRM located? do we have a how to on CCRM removal?

EDIT: That first link that was posted is definitely the best of the four... I will look at it tonight, I think (the car, that is)

[5spdzx2]

Incase the links didnt help you locate it, its right under your intake filter (assuming you havent moved it into the fender. Its that little black rectangular box. Its held on by two 5mm screws (i think thats the size, just have your 4mm 4.5mm 5mm and 5.5 mm sockets handy for this. I dont know which ones i used exactly)

[mechtech]

Our AC cycles.
You can look at it and it will not be engaged [even with the AC on].
This is normal. But it should cycle on/off if it is the right temperature out, and the system has enough refrigerant, and other components are OK.
With the CCRM mod, you basically replace the fried weenie relay with a decent one.

[ilarson007]

well, my a/c doesn't work, for a fact. max a/c with the slider on cold should not be luke warm air, lol

[5spdzx2]

Our AC cycles.
You can look at it and it will not be engaged [even with the AC on].
This is normal. But it should cycle on/off if it is the right temperature out, and the system has enough refrigerant, and other components are OK.
With the CCRM mod, you basically replace the fried weenie relay with a decent one.

As i said, if it doesnt come on at all, then it isnt working..I would not call this a mod, but more of a service and repair. Dont go out and buy a new relay, resolder the old one. If for some reason it doesnt work, make sure you made a good solder connection, if it still doesnt work then go buy a new one. No sense replacing a relay that works that has a bad solder connection. :eyes:

[ilarson007]

So, the common problem is not that the relay fails, but that the solder connection comes undone? Or is it both? Either way, It's less than $10 to fix it, so I'm happy.

But of course it would go down to 50 degrees so I can't check it...

[5spdzx2]

The common problem is wherever these boards were made they had poor quality control and one of the four connections for that relay was not soldered properly. The relay itself is fine, the connection is just bad. If you have a soldering iron and solder it will cost nothing, if not then youll have to spend the money on that and your done.

[ilarson007]

yea, we got a solder iron + solder

[ozzx2]

I just priced a new CCRM at the Ford dealer. They wanted $413 for it!!! :pissed:

I looked back through my bookmarks for the CCRM fix, incase you need to actually replace the relay:

http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=40417&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

I found this on the second page of the thread above and this Relay is 12 volt and should have the correct pinout:

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=255-1240-ND

Pinouts for the CCRM:

http://www.4s.com/fourseasons/tech_tips/tech_tips_english/AB363_97_and_Newer_CCRM_03.pdf

[5spdzx2]

yea, we got a solder iron + solder

You'll be all set then. If the connection is bad then you will be fixing your a/c for free.

[ilarson007]

schweet... i gotta make sure i have the time to do this though, before i tear this stuff apart.