nike13857
04-23-2008, 04:41 PM
If you have never done bodywork before, working with fiberglass can be kind of a headache. Hopefully this how-to will get you pointed in the right direction and clear up some of those headaches. Just keep in mind that this is just a suggested way to do it. Many people prep in different ways. This is just one of many proven ways that I use.
TOOLS:
• 100, 220, 400 grit sand paper
• Sanding block (wood or rubber)
• Sanding sponges (recommended but not needed)
• High-Build primer (I like using gray)
• Basic sandable primer (different color from High-Build like black)
• Cleaner/Degreaser (Simple Green is highly recommended)
• Black Sharpie marker or similar product
• Body Filler (Evercoat Rage Gold highly recommended)
• Plastic spreaders
• Stiff carwash brush
• Grease, Tar, and Wax Remover (GTWR)
• Disposable Gloves
• Dish soap
• Bucket
• Rags
• Lint free towels
• Sponge
Upon receiving your new kit, thoroughly inspect it for any major defects. If there aren't any, then you're good to go. If there is, contact the company to see what their return policy is.
1. Now after it's all unwrapped the first thing you need to do is remove all contaminants such as grease, tar, and wax from the surfaces that are to be prepared for primer with the GTWR. If you sand first, the contaminants will move deeper into the surface to be primed. Which is a bad thing.
2. Next the piece will require an aggressive soap and water washing with a stiff brush. Then, rinse and dry. Follow by a solvent wash using Simple Green or another multi-purpose cleaner.
3. Next I like to take that 100-grit to 180-grit sand paper and lightly sand off that shiny gel coat finish. Sanding this gel coat until it is dull will give it enough stuff for the primer to bond to. Leave no shine. The entire object must be dull.
4. Finally wash with a clean rinsing and non-film forming dish washing liquid. Then rinse, and dry. Once you think you have that done, take the cleaner/degreaser (Simple Green) and thoroughly clean the entire thing again. Now inspect the piece for any shiny spots and sand then away. For the corners and tight areas is where I like to use the sanding sponges.
5. From this point on it's recommended that you use the disposable gloves to handle the piece. Oil from your skin is a contaminant to primer.
6. Pull out a can of the high-build spray primer and cover the complete piece with one even coat. Let it dry as recommended by the manufacturer of the primer.
7. Once dry I now take my marker and thoroughly inspect the piece. Here I circle all problem areas. Whether they are pinholes, cracks, high spots, low spots, and chips.
8. Now from here is where you will want to break out your body filler. Can Bondo brand be used? Yes, but it has poor sanding qualities and can actually take you longer to sand. I highly recommend Evercoat Rage Gold or Evercoat Easy Sand. Use this to fill in/repair the problem areas you outlined with the black marker. NOTE: If all you have is small pinholes, use a pre-mixed spot putty. Wal-Mart sells tubes of it (Bondo brand) for less than $2.
9. Once that is dry take the 220-grit sandpaper to smooth out the filler or spot putty.
10. Now start back at Step 4 and start the entire process over again.
11. Now keep going back to Step 4 until you notice no flaws. Once that is established, apply another 2-3 coats of the high-build primer and let it dry.
12. From here its time to pull out your guide coat primer. The guide coat is a spray application of a contrasting primer color. It is sprayed as a dusting coat that will LIGHTLY cover the primer surface. Spry the entire piece.
13. Next you need to WET sand this guide coat off with the 400-grit sandpaper. Use a small amount (about a teaspoon per gallon of water) of non-filming dishwashing liquid added to your bucket of warm water. I usually let a few extra pieces of sandpaper soak in the bucket while I'm using one. This soap will minimize transfer of body oils during sanding. You will see the heavier 220-grit scratches in the surface as you're sanding with the 400-grit and you want to sand until these heavier scratches are gone. Wet sanding will also help keep sandpaper from loading and the sandpaper will better conform to the contours of the object. This sanding guide coat will reveal areas where additional spot applications of primer may be necessary. As you begin sanding, the guide coat will reveal any deep sand scratches, low spots, pinholes, and other imperfections in the primer coat. While you're wet sanding, you know you're finished with an area when it appears foggy and water doesn't bead up on the surface. Wipe the area with a soaking sponge while sanding to inspect the surface for defects. Remember to keep dipping the sandpaper in the bucket. Once you're done with a section, switch to one of the fresh pieces that have been soaking in the bucket.
NOTE: Never final sand with finer than 400-grit or adhesion of Basecoat will be impaired.
14. Once that is done and no imperfections were found move to next step. If imperfections were found go back to Step 8.
15. That's it!! Your now finished. From here if you want you can purchase an automotive primer sealer. This also comes in a spray can. Apply 2-3 coats of this. This sealer won't allow any contaminates to affect the product (especially while transferring to a body shop) and is a great adhesion promoter for paint.
On a side note, if your piece is fairly thin and flimsy I have had some success of stiffening kits by spraying a coat of the spray-on undercoat stuff on the underside (back) of the fiberglass pieces. You know that black smelly rubber textured stuff. This is done before any primer coats and sanding. This protective layer basically adds durability to the fiberglass.
Written by: SeRiousZX2
TOOLS:
• 100, 220, 400 grit sand paper
• Sanding block (wood or rubber)
• Sanding sponges (recommended but not needed)
• High-Build primer (I like using gray)
• Basic sandable primer (different color from High-Build like black)
• Cleaner/Degreaser (Simple Green is highly recommended)
• Black Sharpie marker or similar product
• Body Filler (Evercoat Rage Gold highly recommended)
• Plastic spreaders
• Stiff carwash brush
• Grease, Tar, and Wax Remover (GTWR)
• Disposable Gloves
• Dish soap
• Bucket
• Rags
• Lint free towels
• Sponge
Upon receiving your new kit, thoroughly inspect it for any major defects. If there aren't any, then you're good to go. If there is, contact the company to see what their return policy is.
1. Now after it's all unwrapped the first thing you need to do is remove all contaminants such as grease, tar, and wax from the surfaces that are to be prepared for primer with the GTWR. If you sand first, the contaminants will move deeper into the surface to be primed. Which is a bad thing.
2. Next the piece will require an aggressive soap and water washing with a stiff brush. Then, rinse and dry. Follow by a solvent wash using Simple Green or another multi-purpose cleaner.
3. Next I like to take that 100-grit to 180-grit sand paper and lightly sand off that shiny gel coat finish. Sanding this gel coat until it is dull will give it enough stuff for the primer to bond to. Leave no shine. The entire object must be dull.
4. Finally wash with a clean rinsing and non-film forming dish washing liquid. Then rinse, and dry. Once you think you have that done, take the cleaner/degreaser (Simple Green) and thoroughly clean the entire thing again. Now inspect the piece for any shiny spots and sand then away. For the corners and tight areas is where I like to use the sanding sponges.
5. From this point on it's recommended that you use the disposable gloves to handle the piece. Oil from your skin is a contaminant to primer.
6. Pull out a can of the high-build spray primer and cover the complete piece with one even coat. Let it dry as recommended by the manufacturer of the primer.
7. Once dry I now take my marker and thoroughly inspect the piece. Here I circle all problem areas. Whether they are pinholes, cracks, high spots, low spots, and chips.
8. Now from here is where you will want to break out your body filler. Can Bondo brand be used? Yes, but it has poor sanding qualities and can actually take you longer to sand. I highly recommend Evercoat Rage Gold or Evercoat Easy Sand. Use this to fill in/repair the problem areas you outlined with the black marker. NOTE: If all you have is small pinholes, use a pre-mixed spot putty. Wal-Mart sells tubes of it (Bondo brand) for less than $2.
9. Once that is dry take the 220-grit sandpaper to smooth out the filler or spot putty.
10. Now start back at Step 4 and start the entire process over again.
11. Now keep going back to Step 4 until you notice no flaws. Once that is established, apply another 2-3 coats of the high-build primer and let it dry.
12. From here its time to pull out your guide coat primer. The guide coat is a spray application of a contrasting primer color. It is sprayed as a dusting coat that will LIGHTLY cover the primer surface. Spry the entire piece.
13. Next you need to WET sand this guide coat off with the 400-grit sandpaper. Use a small amount (about a teaspoon per gallon of water) of non-filming dishwashing liquid added to your bucket of warm water. I usually let a few extra pieces of sandpaper soak in the bucket while I'm using one. This soap will minimize transfer of body oils during sanding. You will see the heavier 220-grit scratches in the surface as you're sanding with the 400-grit and you want to sand until these heavier scratches are gone. Wet sanding will also help keep sandpaper from loading and the sandpaper will better conform to the contours of the object. This sanding guide coat will reveal areas where additional spot applications of primer may be necessary. As you begin sanding, the guide coat will reveal any deep sand scratches, low spots, pinholes, and other imperfections in the primer coat. While you're wet sanding, you know you're finished with an area when it appears foggy and water doesn't bead up on the surface. Wipe the area with a soaking sponge while sanding to inspect the surface for defects. Remember to keep dipping the sandpaper in the bucket. Once you're done with a section, switch to one of the fresh pieces that have been soaking in the bucket.
NOTE: Never final sand with finer than 400-grit or adhesion of Basecoat will be impaired.
14. Once that is done and no imperfections were found move to next step. If imperfections were found go back to Step 8.
15. That's it!! Your now finished. From here if you want you can purchase an automotive primer sealer. This also comes in a spray can. Apply 2-3 coats of this. This sealer won't allow any contaminates to affect the product (especially while transferring to a body shop) and is a great adhesion promoter for paint.
On a side note, if your piece is fairly thin and flimsy I have had some success of stiffening kits by spraying a coat of the spray-on undercoat stuff on the underside (back) of the fiberglass pieces. You know that black smelly rubber textured stuff. This is done before any primer coats and sanding. This protective layer basically adds durability to the fiberglass.
Written by: SeRiousZX2