View Full Version : Mods that DO NOT work
capitalcrew
04-23-2008, 09:06 PM
This is a list of modifications that do not work. Things that you most likely DO NOT want to do to your zx2.
Bombz cold air intake. This can be had off of ebay, the 2.5" piping one with the 90 degree bends.. it has been proven to show losses in power over the stock intake. The perfect alternative? Keman intake mod or any other intake really.
Ebay resistor chip mods. Seem too good to be true? They are. Most of the chips on ebay are NO GOOD. Unless it is SCT or sniper, it will probably not work for our car. It is simply a small resistor in a fancy box, but our PCM learns and phases out the differences in the signal. A perfect solution? SCT, sniper, or pots.
Electric turbo and supercharges. Another one of those too good to be true things. They do nothing. Don't believe me? I'm sorry. We had another member prove it with dyno sheets that it did nothing. It was lost on the last forum though, so I have no actual proof now unless he'd like to provide it. They don't work. Avoid them.
The tornado fuel saver.. does nothing! Adds no power and saves no gas. All it does is add turbulence going into the intake manifold. Don't make the argument that it helps some cars with different intake manifolds.. no one cares. This isn't a different car.
Fuel atomizer, same thing. One member said it made a difference, but the claims were a bit too extreme to be believable. Don't waste your money here. A light foot, a bit of extra tire pressure.. that is all you need on these cars.
Anything to save gas on ebay really, Fake. Avoid all of that stuff like the plague.
Cut springs.. are dangerous. Sure, they make the car a lot lower a lot, but you are riding around on nothing but the struts. Extremely bouncy, throws out your alignment, destroys the car.. absolutely terrible idea. There are some decently cheap lowering springs for this car, look into them.
Heated springs, same deal kind of. As soon as you heat a metal you change its properties. Powder would be able to tell you the word that seems to have slipped my mind. You could break a spring this way, which is never good. It seems it is called annealing. Thanks guys. This takes away the springing properties in the um... springs. That alone should be enough to steer you away! :p
MSD ignitions have been known to fail. Avoid any aftermarket coil packs. The stock one is perfectly fine, all aftermarket ones are prone to failure, and show no gains over stock. THIS INCLUDES ACCEL
If you are going to go for plug wires.. go ford racing. Doesn't take much to be wrong with a wire to get a skip going and ford racing and stock are the best quality. THESE DO NOT ADD POWER. Really, they don't. They just look good really.
The rear strut bar. I don't even think there is one made for the car. At least one member has made on custom, but it does nothing. Where our rear struts are and the way the rear decklid is.. we already have a built in strut bar basically. The rear deck comes across and ties the tops of the strut mounts together already, so, there is no need for one of these.
I will be adding more to this list as time goes on and I think of more. So don't worry. :p
capitalcrew
04-23-2008, 09:07 PM
Reserved, just in case.
scort2498
04-23-2008, 09:15 PM
what about heating your springs to shrink... would that be ok?
capitalcrew
04-23-2008, 09:16 PM
No sir, as soon as you heat metals it changes their properties. I'll add that.
TSmiley98
04-23-2008, 09:22 PM
plug wires arent a gain either other than for looks
powder
04-23-2008, 09:22 PM
Heating the springs "Anneals" them. It's basically the reverse of heat treating. Softens them and starts taking away their springy properties. Which is why you get such a bad ride from doing so.
raider
04-23-2008, 09:22 PM
the Electric turbo made 3 hp on the dyno. But he had an e-ram electric turbo.
yellow2000S/R
04-23-2008, 09:23 PM
No sir, as soon as you heat metals it changes their properties. I'll add that.
Its called annealing...
BTW, in the books in Chassis Fab class, it said cutting 1 coil off the springs is OK and depending on the method used and heat generated, can raise the spring rate up to 10%.
In reality, 10% isnt much... and I wont cut springs.
capitalcrew
04-23-2008, 09:24 PM
Yeah, so nothing basically. Waste of time, that electric supercharger is. Only comes on when you tell it to, adds 3 whp MAYBE, drains your battery..
Thank you powder, smiley, I didn't think anyone would think plugs wires made an improvement in power but I'll be sure to add it.
scort2498
04-23-2008, 09:26 PM
yea i'll be honest i thought they did something.
capitalcrew
04-23-2008, 09:27 PM
They might smooth it out a little but they add no power. I'd changed the post to show that they don't show any gains.
capitalcrew
04-23-2008, 09:28 PM
Its called annealing...
BTW, in the books in Chassis Fab class, it said cutting 1 coil off the springs is OK and depending on the method used and heat generated, can raise the spring rate up to 10%.
In reality, 10% isnt much... and I wont cut springs.
I don't think anyone is going to be finding some one who is figuring out exactly how to cut their springs to make them safe. We'll just stick with making sure every one does the right thing and buys springs. :winkyface:
JC'szx2
04-23-2008, 09:38 PM
pacesetter header $180 and blew 3 welds (i think all at once lol)in under six months waste of money!!!
capitalcrew
04-23-2008, 09:40 PM
I won't be adding that, the pacesetter head does indeed work. It shows gains. I know, I have one. It's never had a problem. I actually like it.
5spdzx2
04-23-2008, 09:47 PM
Theres both a long and short pacesetter correct? and what one do you have if so? also, good post and should be stickied for curious people
capitalcrew
04-23-2008, 09:52 PM
There is only a pacesetter shorty.
Yeah, I forgot about that. Can a mod sticky this please?
5spdzx2
04-23-2008, 09:57 PM
are you sure though? i swear ive seen a long header by them, maybe it was just a standard picture though and i never cared too look into it because it was pacesetter.
Manbearpig
04-23-2008, 10:15 PM
Front strut bar.
Pure cosmetic.
capitalcrew
04-23-2008, 10:27 PM
The front strut bar is considered a cosmetic mod but over time it will reduce minor cracks in the front end. The stiffness it adds is not noticeable nor will it help your handling but it will help the integrity of the front end over time. I suppose I'll add it too, tomorrow though.
Night people. :thingnana:
ZX2Fast
04-24-2008, 01:01 AM
There are as many cracked Pacesetters as there are good ones. A 50% failure rate isn't that bad, right?
zxtwou2
04-24-2008, 02:30 AM
i'd say the rear strut bar is useless...i actually felt the front bar on tight off ramps.
other useless things...those pills you put in your gas tank....exhaust tips have NO performance value, nor do they affect the sound of your exhaust.
capitalcrew
04-24-2008, 06:33 AM
I put gas savers as a generalization, since none of that crap works.
I am not putting the pacesetter on there. I already said that. It is is a power adder, it's just not reliable. If I put it up there, turbo goes up there too. How many turbo guys on here have blown an engine? No fast, I don't care how many miles you have on your base tune.
Rear strut bar, I'll add that right now. :winkyface:
ZX2Fast
04-24-2008, 08:44 PM
170,000+ BTW. lol
JonsZX2SR
04-29-2008, 08:48 AM
what about heating your springs to shrink... would that be ok?
If you have the capability to do this the same way as a spring shop it would be okay. Heat the springs uniformly, allow temperature to equilibrate, compress them to the desired height, allow them to relax then cool them in a controlled manner to achieve the correct temper.
Afterwards you surface treat the springs to minimize corrosion.
However, if you heat part of the spring with a torch to get them to relax, never achieve thermal equilibrium and introduce stresses due to non-uniformity it is never alright. The liklihood of a failure due to fatigue craking or corrosion is significant. If you have an accident, you run the risk of being liable and your insurance may not pay off if they investigate and find cut or improperly heat treated springs.
How many people here have the knowledge of metallurgy and the facilities to properly do metal heat treating ??
Cherokee
05-01-2008, 12:28 AM
Good Thread. I am always amazed at what people will believe,....say,...anyone want to buy some Kinoki foot pads? I'll give you a deal:lol:
DustyMNZX2
05-01-2008, 01:33 AM
canoing valve needs to go up there
as well as chrome muffler bearings
two fake gimmicks right there
usually the tell you at a shop if they think your dumb..
they tried to pull it on my sister
capitalcrew
05-01-2008, 06:34 AM
Muffler bearings are a joke, not a mod. I am talking about real things that you could buy and get screwed over on.
Boostlesszx2
05-01-2008, 10:26 AM
are you sure though? i swear ive seen a long header by them, maybe it was just a standard picture though and i never cared too look into it because it was pacesetter.
your probably thinking of the gude one that comes with the head package
Tedmx22
05-01-2008, 09:27 PM
i'd say the rear strut bar is useless...i actually felt the front bar on tight off ramps.
other useless things...those pills you put in your gas tank....exhaust tips have NO performance value, nor do they affect the sound of your exhaust.
That's the thing about "the feel" of the strut bars. I wish it was a pure unbiased feeling instead of since you put it on, you expect and believe there is a difference in feel.
For example; if I was to be told 3x (three times) separate and consecutive times, that there's been some work done to improve handling and that I should go out and take it for a spin and see if I notice any difference and I wasn't told (nor did I ask for) what was changed or to which end and my job was to go for a test-of-feel-drive. Then I was to come back and report my findings. When in actuality nothing had been done on the 1st and 3rd run of the handling tweak, but a strut bar was installed on the 2nd run then removed before the 3rd. What would "my feel" report truly be??
You see, when you replace a part, you expect it to be good or perform because you're the one that did the work and you want to believe there is a difference (in handling feel in this case). It's mind over matter.
The only way to truly tell is if the device like the one from Motorweek that mounts to the inner windshield were installed to measure a variety of readings. Motorweek even has a segment on it; what it's called how much it costs and how it's being used nationwide during post-accident investigations.
capitalcrew
05-01-2008, 09:29 PM
Lol.
Regardless the strut bar still reduces wear on various suspension parts over time.
Tedmx22
05-01-2008, 09:50 PM
Yeah, I know I'm lol too, I guess I went to far.
You're right on a benefit over time, especially to reduce a cracked windshield getting worse.
I was talking about the expectance to feel better "since I just put it (strut bar) on" it's got to feel better.
(sarcastically) Look at me zipping through on/off ramps and orange cones, ready to do cookies in reverse!
zxtwou2
05-01-2008, 09:52 PM
That's the thing about "the feel" of the strut bars. I wish it was a pure unbiased feeling instead of since you put it on, you expect and believe there is a difference in feel.
For example; if I was to be told 3x (three times) separate and consecutive times, that there's been some work done to improve handling and that I should go out and take it for a spin and see if I notice any difference and I wasn't told (nor did I ask for) what was changed or to which end and my job was to go for a test-of-feel-drive. Then I was to come back and report my findings. When in actuality nothing had been done on the 1st and 3rd run of the handling tweak, but a strut bar was installed on the 2nd run then removed before the 3rd. What would "my feel" report truly be??
You see, when you replace a part, you expect it to be good or perform because you're the one that did the work and you want to believe there is a difference (in handling feel in this case). It's mind over matter.
The only way to truly tell is if the device like the one from Motorweek that mounts to the inner windshield were installed to measure a variety of readings. Motorweek even has a segment on it; what it's called how much it costs and how it's being used nationwide during post-accident investigations.
drive your car as hard as i do in autoX...then tell me there isn't a difference. and if you say you drive on the streets as hard as in autoX..the BS flag is going up immediately.
Tedmx22
05-02-2008, 02:13 AM
That flag can go up in flames immediately since hard driving autoX produces a sensory overload...to some even adrenaline.
zxtwou2
05-02-2008, 02:15 AM
That flag can go up in flames immediately since hard driving autoX produces a sensory overload...to some even adrenaline.
but improvement in PAX times don't lie 8)
Tedmx22
05-02-2008, 02:27 AM
Alright (kudos) I'll give you that!
To improve it even more, would be, weight reduction.
lol, there goes racing on a full stomach.
zxtwou2
05-02-2008, 03:44 AM
i don't wanna do any more weight reduction..it puts me in a different class. and you haven't been around long have you? guess you didn't know my car is 2240 lbs :shrug:
JonsZX2SR
05-06-2008, 04:15 PM
The front strut bar is considered a cosmetic mod but over time it will reduce minor cracks in the front end. The stiffness it adds is not noticeable nor will it help your handling but it will help the integrity of the front end over time. I suppose I'll add it too, tomorrow though.
Night people. :thingnana:
Agreed. If you install a front strut tower bar on a new car and dial in some preload it will reduce suspension flex and cracking of seam welds. You may not notice adifference when the car is new, but at 70K-100K of driving on rough roads the difference in stiffness will be noticeable.
Consider a good front strut bar with the proper preload to be a prophylactic modification.
BILLJRH2
06-07-2008, 06:58 PM
yes, take it from a dumbass (me) , the stupid ebay chip is total crap, learned my lesson bigtime i am now saving for a real tuner that will work for more than two days lol
joshalabama
06-07-2008, 07:25 PM
What about gas additives that make your exhaust smell fruity? Pina colada? We were thinking of buying some of these and putting them in my friends FD, it is so rich and stinks when it flys past us. lol..
zxtwou2
06-07-2008, 09:30 PM
cam2 (114 octane) smells like grape popsicles when it's burned.
raider
06-07-2008, 09:33 PM
The smell of racing fuel is the greatest smell in the world.
trekkor
06-23-2008, 03:42 AM
Cutting the springs is no problem.
Not bouncy at all.
Where did you hear this?
KT
zxtwou2
06-23-2008, 04:00 AM
well...bottoming out the struts kinda sucks...as does changing your spring rate after cutting them.each coil of the spring helps add to the effective spring rate, and cutting some off tends to decrease the spring rate, as well as the travel...which very easily comes into play when you fully compress the sping and thus are riding on essensially 0 suspension travel.
trekkor
06-23-2008, 04:29 AM
I assure you, I'm not bottoming out and I have travel.
KT
zxtwou2
06-23-2008, 04:32 AM
well, more power to you, then. i'm bottoming out my sprints just about in autoX...i'm at least hitting a point where i'm scraping my bumper on the ground.
trekkor
06-23-2008, 04:35 AM
Oh, and it reduces body roll, too.
I need to find one of those 21mm rsb's as well.
KT
ParaDox_007
08-02-2008, 03:34 AM
so the hydrogen mod is real or fake? cuz right now i'm planning on testing it on mine
basically making it a hybrid type haha
powder
08-02-2008, 03:49 AM
If you're gonna cut the spring, don't use an heat type method, use a hack saw.
yellow2000S/R
08-02-2008, 07:58 AM
If you're gonna cut the spring, don't use an heat type method, use a hack saw.
Everything I've read in books for suspension, chassis building, and/or handling say that cutting springs with an acetlyne torch is fine. Some said to heat the spring back another 1/2 and then flip and push against the ground to bend it flat so it seats correct (flat).
Orionsfather
09-14-2008, 01:38 PM
Hydrogen Fuel Cells or HHO. This seems to be the new scam floating around the internet lately since the advent of higher gas prices. It also seems way too good too be true, using electricity from your battery to separate water into its basic components of Hydrogen and Oxygen.
This method of separating the hydrogen from water, has been around for a very long time. The idea behind it is to use electricity to break down the bonds between the hydrogen and oxygen thus creating separate components to add into your intake to help in combustion, since hydrogen is an explosive gas. You would be using the Hydrogen to burn along with your fuel, it *Supposedly* reduces the amount of gasoline needed to make full combustion.
Sounds too good to be true? That's because it is. Fortunately for all of us educated people here on TeamZX2.com, we won't fall for this scam, since we all know about the laws of Thermodynamics. The first law of Thermodynamics clearly states this: Energy generated by recombining the hydrogen and oxygen through combustion can only ever be equal to the amount of energy it took to separate them. This law is indisputable at our current state of technology.
But it is even worse than that: Because there all sorts of losses involved in the generation of the electricity, the delivery of it to the electrolysis cell and then the combustion process, we actually recover far less energy from burning the hydrogen than it took to create it. So, once those losses are taken into account, these useless devices will actually cause your car to use *more* fuel. That extra fuel doing nothing more than heating the water in that electrolysis cell and the wires that lead to it.
So in conclusion, these HHO or Hydrogen Fuel Cells, are worthless. You can not dispute the first law of Thermodynamics, you can not put in 10 units of energy and get 100 units back. Besides if this really worked, do you think the people selling this stuff would really care about the couple of thousand dollars they would get from selling this to people who don't have any idea about science. Because if this really did work, then it would bring about a whole new era of science, since the first law of Thermodynamics would have been broken, and that person would reap the benefits of billions of dollars off his patents stemming from his discovery, and even pickup some Nobel Prizes along the way.
So don't buy these scams. Not only are they useless for our beautiful ZX2s', they are useless for everyone else's cars too. I hope you enjoyed our little science lecture today, sorry if it was too long. If you have any questions on this topic please send me a PM and I will get back to you as soon as I can.
zx2loon
09-14-2008, 01:43 PM
Speechless.......
Who are you again??
capitalcrew
09-14-2008, 01:44 PM
Actually it works. Also, since you are using electrical energy which there is plenty of, to convert the water into hydrogen there is no mechanical loss, therefor any mechanical gain is indeed a gain.
If it was using mechanical energy then you're right, it wouldn't be worth it. Since the alternator is spinning and producing electricity anyways, you will see minimal gains.
A far better alternative though, would be water injection.
zxtwou2
09-14-2008, 01:47 PM
Actually it works. Also, since you are using electrical energy which there is plenty of, to convert the water into hydrogen there is no mechanical loss, therefor any mechanical gain is indeed a gain.
If it was using mechanical energy then you're right, it wouldn't be worth it. Since the alternator is spinning and producing electricity anyways, you will see minimal gains.
A far better alternative though, would be water injection.
you don't get how an alternator works, do you? the more electrical load you demand of the alternator, the harder the engine has to try to turn the alternator through the lines of flux in order to produce the same voltage and make more current to keep up with said demand.
capitalcrew
09-14-2008, 01:48 PM
I know that, but the alternator produces a surplus of energy anyways.
capitalcrew
09-14-2008, 01:52 PM
http://teamzx2.com/showthread.php?t=199
Orionsfather
09-14-2008, 02:01 PM
Actually it works. Also, since you are using electrical energy which there is plenty of, to convert the water into hydrogen there is no mechanical loss, therefor any mechanical gain is indeed a gain.
If it was using mechanical energy then you're right, it wouldn't be worth it. Since the alternator is spinning and producing electricity anyways, you will see minimal gains.
A far better alternative though, would be water injection.
But what turns the alternator? The engine does, which requires gasoline. So you have to add that to the equation of loss. Even though the Alternator produces electricity, it is because you are expending gasoline to power the alternator. There is no difference between mechanical energy and any other energy. In the equation it is all energy.
capitalcrew
09-14-2008, 02:09 PM
My mistake, after reading more on it.
Though the mileage increase in David's research over time is indisputable.
MaddogZX2
09-18-2008, 07:30 PM
this is kinda a stupid ? but can u make ur automatic into a maunual and how do u do it
ravensguildassasin
09-18-2008, 07:39 PM
this is kinda a stupid ? but can u make ur automatic into a maunual and how do u do it
first of all there is a search function for a reason. second the info is under swaps. third there is no reason to post in a thread that doesn't have anything to do with what you are asking. but since you probably don't look at the forum much. or cant read:goofy: here is the link to it.
http://www.teamzx2.com/showthread.php?t=119
MaddogZX2
09-18-2008, 07:53 PM
sorry i just started using this i still dont get it but thanks for the help
ravensguildassasin
09-18-2008, 07:57 PM
its all good was mostly just giving helpful advice. it was meant jokingly.
MaddogZX2
09-19-2008, 02:04 PM
i know
My mistake, after reading more on it.
Though the mileage increase in David's research over time is indisputable.
oh, noes!! don't remove your stock spoiler or you will lose 1mpg....
powder
10-30-2008, 01:24 AM
But what turns the alternator? The engine does, which requires gasoline. So you have to add that to the equation of loss. Even though the Alternator produces electricity, it is because you are expending gasoline to power the alternator. There is no difference between mechanical energy and any other energy. In the equation it is all energy.
Can't believe i missed this.
The alternator does not fluctuate. I don't care what anyone says, it produces the same volts every day that the car runs. If it fluctuated to meet demand, then it would compensate for an under drive pulley being installed.
By this fact we could come to the conclusion that any energy stolen from the battery to power some coil to create hydrogen/oxygen would not change the cycle of a normal engine.
It may pick up the slack of wasted energy being lost since the stock alternator runs at about 14.5v and the battery is a 12v (excess created for running of accessories obviously) but it won't put strain on the system.
And yes i understand that the higher the rpms of the alt are the more load there is because of the current running through.
capitalcrew
10-30-2008, 11:21 AM
oh, noes!! don't remove your stock spoiler or you will lose 1mpg....
Go away n00b.
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