Page 1 of 8 12345 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 120

Thread: Common ZX2 Problems. Read this before you post.

  1. #1

    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    5,759
    Points
    1,096,961
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    1,096,961
    Donate  
    Thanks for the how to video - texzetec A toast to Ron Paul :D - powder To you and your family bud. - RASCAL 

    Exclamation Common ZX2 Problems. Read this before you post.

    You can use this database to check your DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) that are pulled from your PCM.
    http://www.iequus.com/Dtc
    DTC Team ZX2 Knowledge Base
    Most auto part stores will read the codes for you for free. Please write down the exact code (starts with a 'P') to post along will all of your symptoms and any mods or recent work that might affect the car now.

    My engine knocks, is it a rod?
    Probably not. Our engines are very noisy. The fuel injectors make a high pitch metallic clicking sound and the VCT makes a low pitch 'whooping' sound. Follow the link to hear what rod knock sounds like: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_CL7uNYPUMg

    My shifter (MTX) fell out of the hole.
    This is common. The shifter is isolated from the body of the car by a rubber bushing between the shifter and the mounting point in the shifter assembly. The problem is that the rubber rots and allows the shifter to fall out of the hole. Some go to the junkyard and find a replacement but that shifter is just as old and will do the same thing. Others use self-tapping screws to fasten the shifter to the body of the assembly. Since they aren't supposed to be hard fastened (meaning they aren't supposed to move at the same time thus the reason rubber is used) I wouldn't do it this way. The way I fix them is clean the hole out with sandpaper and use some JB Weld to secure the rubber to the body of the assembly, the way it was originally secured.

    P300-301-302-303-304, car misfires.
    The spark plugs and plug wires should be replaced every 80,000 miles. I know the book says 100,000 miles, but trust me, 80,000 miles is more then enough to kill spark plugs and wires. Also, if you recently replaced the spark plugs and/or wires and you get this code, it can be caused by a number of things. This car is picky about spark plug brands. You cannot use any type of gimmick spark plug like the Split fire, +2, +4, or any other type of plug that is not a single electrode. If your spark plug wires are old or rubbing on something, they will leak and cause misfires. When installing the plug wires you must feel and hear a click, otherwise they are not fully seated onto the spark plugs. There are other causes of misfires and if trying these things does not work, then make a new post describing in detail your problem and we will help you.

    P0171
    System Too Lean (Bank 1) Symptoms include stalling at idle, rough idle, poor MPG, loss of power, high pitch sucking sound from the engine bay. This is typically caused by a vacuum leak. The most common cause is a hole in the elbow at the PCV valve. It may be hard to see so you'll want to pull it out to check it. Also look at the elbow that connects the PCV hose to the intake manifold. It can get a hole there as well. This is 90% caused by a vacuum leak and not the O2 sensor. Most people (ignorant ones) will just say it is the sensor because it set the code. That code is a good sensor reporting a lean condition. Just replacing the sensor without checking for other problems first would be like replacing an entire wire harness when a light goes out instead of checking the bulb and fuse first. Other causes can be a bad sensor, bad MAF, low fuel pressure, or an exhaust leak. To fix the elbows on the PCV valve you can pick up new ones from the HELP section of the local part store. The part numbers for the elbows from the Help section are:
    PCV Valve to hose elbow: 47029 (says Chrysler on the package but it works). About 3 dollars. Also, try 46022, it says Ford on the package.
    PCV Hose to Intake Manifold elbow: 46017 (says ford on the package). About 7 dollars.
    The one that goes on the intake manifold fits the nipple on the manifold snugly. But, it doesn't fit snug on the line so you'll need to use a clamp on that part. The one on the PCV valve is a very tight fit at both ends. If you don't want to bother trying to rig this up, you can purchase a new line from Ford. The part number is: (for 99.5 and up) F8CZ-6853-CA; part number for the earlier 99.5 and down is: F7CZ-6C663-AE

    My engine died suddenly and won't restart/tries to restart but backfires or makes funny sound from intake, and/or either code P1381 or P1383 is pulled from the PCM.
    This is almost certainly a broken or jumped timing belt. Luckily the Zetec is a non-interference engine. This means the valves will not hit the piston if the belt breaks or jumps time. Check the 'service items' section of the Knowledge Base for information on how to check and replace the timing belt.

    My heat and/or A/C is stuck in the defrost mode.
    If you recently removed the stereo, then take it back out and reconnect the vacuum lines that go on the back of the vent selector switch. Also, this issue can be caused by a vacuum leak. See 'P0171' above for details about vacuum leaks.

    I turn my heat or a/c on and nothing comes out of the vents.
    First, check the fuse. If the fuse is good, look under the passenger side of the dash. You'll see a white connector with blue wires running to it. This is the blower motor resistor. It is very common for the connector to burn up and the contact to rust out. This is a very high current wire and should be properly repaired. Follow the link for the common cause and fix for this issue. http://teamzx2.com/threads/11197-Blower-motor-fix I should add that if you recently had the head unit out, maybe to install a stereo, that it is possible the connector isn't plugged in. You'll have to remove the head unit to check for this.

    Battery Light Flickers or Stays On
    This is a good indication that the alternator is going out. It is rarely caused by a slipping belt. Auto Zone and Advance Auto Parts do free charging system checks. Have the alternator and battery tested.

    I'm losing coolant but I see no leaks.
    A common issue with aluminum radiators with plastic tanks is that these two parts have different thermal expansion rates. Over time this can cause a gap where the core meets the tanks and coolant will evaporate from these small gaps only when the radiator is hot. This is why you won't find any puddles and the car will probably pass a pressure test. You can determine if this is your issue by looking at the area where the tank and core meets. You'll be looking for residue left over from the coolant escaping. It should look brown or slightly green around that area. Kind of the color of old brass or a long time home plumbing leak. It can also be leaking from the cap if the seal on it is bad.

    My temperature gauge isn't working
    It is unusual for the gauge itself to fail. The ZX2 has two sensors on the thermostat housing. The top one, the coolant temperature sensor, tells the PCM the temperature of the coolant and has nothing at all to do with the reading on the gauge. There is a coolant temperature switch (some still call it a sensor, even at the part stores) on the bottom of the thermostat housing that only sends the temperature to the gauge. This is the most likely problem.

    My temperature gauge rapidly fluctuates or my heater blows hot/cold at random.
    The most common cause for this issue is an air pocket in the cooling system. This is either caused by low coolant (most common) or a major leak in the system. See the above section: 'I'm losing coolant but I see no leaks.'

    My cluster lights don't come on or they are really dim when I turn the parking/headlights on.
    A common fix for this issue is to just turn the dimmer switch back up. It is located on the driver side of the lower dash panel and is easy to bump when you get into the car. This will make the lights in the dash not light up or light dimly. If this doesn't work, check the fuse in the box.

    My parking brake light comes on when I accelerate.
    The parking brake light comes on if the parking brake is up or if the fluid level in the reservoir is low. Make sure the parking brake handle isn't loose. It could be loose enough that it might jump up a bit and cause the light to come one. If it is loose you can adjust it by removing the rear part of the console and tightening the nut up that holds the cable. The more common cause is low brake fluid. But, brake fluid doesn't just disappear on its' own. Either you have a leak or the pads are worn down. As the pad wear the fluid level will drop to push the pads closer to the rotors. Don't just top off your fluid. This can lead to a lot of trouble. Check your pads to make sure they aren't worn down. If they appear fine, then check for signs of fluid leakage at all of the wheels. If in doubt, many shops offer free brake inspections.

    I found oil standing on top of the spark plugs.
    This is a common issue with overhead cam engines since they have the spark plugs surrounded by the valve/cam cover. The problem is the seal between the cover and head has to be perfect. Often, it isn't perfect. You can purchase a new gasket kit (important that you get the bolt grommets to or it may still seep around the edges) and install it yourself. The bolt tightening pattern and torque value is in the Knowledge Base under the 'Timing Belt' how-to. Some have had luck with just the new gasket (like myself) but others can't get it to seal unless they use some premium black RTV silicone applied in a very thin layer before the cover is installed. It is very rare that this issue is caused for any other reason. It is worth checking the cover for cracks and chipping just to make sure this isn't the issue. It is also important to note that oil standing on the plugs can cause a slight misfire and hesitation.

    I'll add more to this later.
    Last edited by ZX2Fast; 07-04-2014 at 12:34 PM. Reason: added rod knock

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    topeka
    Posts
    75
    Points
    6,696
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    6,696
    Donate  

    Default

    well the seat belts in the 00 zx2 have a recall which is not 2 big a deal but you can get it fixed free

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Winter Park, Florida
    Posts
    429
    Points
    56,552
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    56,552
    Donate  

    Default

    Crank gear might be a good addition to common problems. I know mine needed to be replaced with the updated solid piece unit.
    VW MK4 GTI 1.8T APR Stage 2 tuning, CAI, 3" Downpipe, Prothane dogbone bushings, H&R Sport Springs, APR R1 DV, APR Turbo Inlet Pipe, 2.5" l.i.p..... 217 whp & 233 wtq @ 18 PSI

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    topeka
    Posts
    75
    Points
    6,696
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    6,696
    Donate  

    Default

    and every one knows atx is crap it will crap out on u

  5. #5

    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    South Jersey
    Posts
    1,557
    Points
    193,774
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    193,774
    Donate  

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by spiderman View Post
    and every one knows atx is crap it will crap out on u
    You sure about that...I got 225,000 on mine and it is just now starting to go out. Replaced fluid evey 20-30K and was never real nice to it.

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    5,759
    Points
    1,096,961
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    1,096,961
    Donate  
    Thanks for the how to video - texzetec A toast to Ron Paul :D - powder To you and your family bud. - RASCAL 

    Default

    Yeah, did you mod the car? Yours is the exception, not the rule.

  7. #7

    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    South Jersey
    Posts
    1,557
    Points
    193,774
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    193,774
    Donate  

    Default

    My life is the exception Pretty much unmodded. Recently Kemanized intake and Trubenz 2.25 catback with Borla. A couple years back I got stuck in a snow storm in Ohio, a foot and half overnight and I was doing 60mph one wheel burnouts for hours trying to get unstuck, I think that was when the trans started to go down hill, but I only had 160K on it at the time. Otherwise 50/50 city highway commute with at least 2-3 wide open throttle runs each day on a 80 mile round trip.
    Will turn 226k today, if it makes it

  8. #8

    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    South Jersey
    Posts
    1,557
    Points
    193,774
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    193,774
    Donate  

    Default

    I forgot to add, Does the originator of this thread want input on what common failures occur with the ZX2? I've pretty much had every failure imaginable and wouldn't mind writing them up, I did it for the old site but that's all gone now, I'll have to save it in Word this time because it took quite a while to get it all written out.

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    5,759
    Points
    1,096,961
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    1,096,961
    Donate  
    Thanks for the how to video - texzetec A toast to Ron Paul :D - powder To you and your family bud. - RASCAL 

    Default

    I think Spykee started that thread. I'm not sure if he is interested in doing it again.

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    North Dakota
    Posts
    205
    Points
    8,399
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    8,399
    Donate  

    Default

    My wife's ATX ZX2 is now 9 years old, still running like new.
    formerly MyZX2iz2slow

  11. #11

    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    5,759
    Points
    1,096,961
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    1,096,961
    Donate  
    Thanks for the how to video - texzetec A toast to Ron Paul :D - powder To you and your family bud. - RASCAL 

    Default

    Lucky you. You should add a transmission cooler before your luck runs out.

  12. #12

    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Motor City
    Posts
    35
    Points
    2,697
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    2,697
    Donate  

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tygen1 View Post
    You sure about that...I got 225,000 on mine and it is just now starting to go out. Replaced fluid evey 20-30K and was never real nice to it.
    Same here. I've got 192K on my '98 - original transmission. The transmission sees a complete fluid exchange with Dexron every 30K. I've owned this car from new, so I know the complete history of this car. How many people with high miles can say that? I drive the car like a normal person. I'm wondering if the transmission problems experienced by others aren't something enthusiast-related or from spirited driving.

    A couple suggestions for the common problems sticky:

    - Resistor block for blower motor. After a while they get burned/rusty and need to be replaced, along with the connector.

    - Constant Control Relay Module (CCRM) problems.

    - A/C clutch breaking apart - specifically, the outer piece (drive, PN YB521). I replaced it with a used part, which under examination showed cracks have started at the same fracture location. Whether this is a 'common' problem is up to the jury.
    Last edited by Kestas; 05-27-2008 at 07:36 AM.

  13. #13

    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Chicago,IL
    Posts
    98
    Points
    9,873
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    9,873
    Donate  

    Default Common problem?

    The timing belt idler pulley blew up on me. I've heard others say the tensioner goes... funny thing, the car would run but make a clacking noise at higher rpm's. Turns out the lower idler pulley next to the crank blew up, the clacking noise was all the ball bearings floating around in there Thank god for non-interfering heads... many more ZX2's would be in the junkyard. The stupid shafts on the pulley's are not grease fitting equipped. It's just a matter of time before they blow up.

    I'm on my third ATX, 1 demise was a cooling issue with the radiator. It kinda makes me want to learn how to rebuild them. Everyone near Chicago wants $1400 to rebuild. Dealer wanted $2300 5 years ago! I found a dude for $900. It's still a lot of $
    Last edited by 98vinman; 06-12-2008 at 07:09 AM.

  14. #14

    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Toronto, Ontaio, Canada
    Posts
    219
    Points
    28,261
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    28,261
    Donate  

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ZX2Fast View Post
    My temperature gauge isn't working
    It is unusual for the gauge itself to fail. The ZX2 has two sensors on the thermostat housing. The top one, the coolant temperature sensor, tells the PCM the temerature of the coolant and has nothing at all to do with the reading on the gauge. There is a coolant temerature switch (some still call it a sensor, even at the part stores) on the bottom of the thermostat housing that only sends the temperature to the gauge. This is the most likely problem.
    THANKYOUTHANKYOUTHANKYOUTHANKYOU!!!!!

    My gauge and sanity are restored to optimum working condition again thanks to this info.

    Stretch
    '98 ZX2 Sport hot atx KVT-5 (SCT Advantage III, Raptor and XCal2)
    red, gray gut, swirlies and a sunroof! woot woot!
    Old enough to know better, young enough not to care

  15. #15

    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    5,759
    Points
    1,096,961
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    1,096,961
    Donate  
    Thanks for the how to video - texzetec A toast to Ron Paul :D - powder To you and your family bud. - RASCAL 

    Default

    Welcome. I wouldn't mind getting some rep points. Just click on the scales above my post to add rep.
    Last edited by ZX2Fast; 06-28-2008 at 07:12 AM.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •