This is mostly out of boredom and curiosity. Has anyone succesfully ran a small turbo setup and used a rising rate FMU on stock injectors and ECU to run a low amount of boost like 8 pounds? Alot of KAturbo, and Honda kids do this and seem to have success. Personally I am not going to mess with my zx2 because I finally got it back to stock, just wondering.
42lb injectors FTW
02 zx2 - CAI, Progressive springs, daily driver.
97 Eclipse GS - CAI, Konig rims, Wifes Daily.
91 Turbo 240sx - Gone
98 Turbo zx2 - Gone
that is a good point about returnless but creating a return system should not be much more difficult than anything else. I would like to see how your car runs, with stock ecu do you think 1:1 will be enough jump in pressure to psi.
Can you link me cause I searched like crazy
I imagine you would need a pretty big jump in fuel pressure, since you are already having 8 pounds of pressure in your intake manifold.
How much would the 1:1 raise FP?
one psi to every one psi..
The stock fuel pressure sensor has a vacuum reference line, therefore the stock fuel system has a 1:1 rising rate fuel pressure system. at idle, fuel pressure is around ~30psi, fuel throttle (N/A) is about ~40psi and 8psi boost would result in ~48psi of fuel pressure. this is roughly equivalent to changing from 19lb(stock) to 21lb injectors.
is this enough to support the increased HP from 8lbs of boost? probably not. there are calculators here http://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx that can help you with fuel injector math.
Car details / turbo build: http://teamzx2.com/threads/28821-The...ar-turbo-build Now with Megasquirt!
For Sale thread: http://teamzx2.com/threads/39121-Cle...h-rev-cams-etc
That is cool that these regulators do that, being non return i guess it is needed. Many cars have vac reference lines and the regulators only have "steps" from vac to boost
i must have done something wrong cause this calculator is telling me youd only make 127whp if you turbo with stock injectors.
power: supertech pistons, eagle rods, sniper tuning, open 2.5" downpipe(~6inches long), junkyard; turbo, injectors, c.o.p's, 22psi
grip: mfactory lsd, spec stage 3, solid mounts, intrax springs, blown struts lol, 19mm rsb, front&rear tie bars, partial chassis seam weld, front strut bar, s/r rdb&mbc, hawk pads, 2300-2320lbs, 235/45/17frnt 225/45/17rear yokohama a048's on rota slips(breaks traction in third gear)
black car (daily(thinking about turboing it...))
power: ram air, iceman intake, gude head & cams, jba header, 2.5" exhaust, sniper tuning, msd coil, fr wires
grip: s/r springs and struts, front tie bar, 21mm rsb, spec stage 2, es motor mount inserts, hawk pads(front only), 215/45/16 kuhmo xs's on rota slips
that is correct. the BSFC for a turbo car is much higher than a NA car since you run a rich AFR to keep combustion temps down. also, 95% duty cycle is a high. 85 or 90% at the absolute most to maintain some measure of safety. i.e. you have a little room in the event of an overboost condition. also, injectors do not work properly as the duty cycles increase near 100%, that's why it is best to keep duty cycle low.
injectors are frequently overlooked when building a car. most will read of someone using a certain flow rate and assume that is it appropriate to all cars. trust that calculator, its better to be safe than sorry.
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