Thanks probly putting on my turbo kit finally lol.
All I need is a wastegate and time cant wait!
Nice job! pretty creative...what are you working on next?
Thanks probly putting on my turbo kit finally lol.
All I need is a wastegate and time cant wait!
Last edited by conquest-king; 11-02-2009 at 08:35 PM.
2001, SVTF DSI, 3"CAI, Obx header, Coilovers, Powder UDP, AC/PS delete, B&M Short Shifter, Leather Seats, 21MM Swaybar, Polyurethane Bushings, Custom FORD Emblems, Clear Cornered Projector Headlights, Tinted LED tailights, LED License Plate Lights, LED Center Reflector, Paint Matched M3 Mirrors, Vent Visors, 2.25" pipe no cat Magnaflow Muffler, Ported TB, Rear Tie Bar, MX-3 Rear Disc Swap, C.O.P. System, XCAL2, OCC.
was there any difference in the cars performance after you installed this set up... I am amazed at the simplicity of your set up, and how clean it looks... I will be doing this in the near future...
Checking the rep... yep second to none.
I felt a noticable difference.
2001, SVTF DSI, 3"CAI, Obx header, Coilovers, Powder UDP, AC/PS delete, B&M Short Shifter, Leather Seats, 21MM Swaybar, Polyurethane Bushings, Custom FORD Emblems, Clear Cornered Projector Headlights, Tinted LED tailights, LED License Plate Lights, LED Center Reflector, Paint Matched M3 Mirrors, Vent Visors, 2.25" pipe no cat Magnaflow Muffler, Ported TB, Rear Tie Bar, MX-3 Rear Disc Swap, C.O.P. System, XCAL2, OCC.
In order for a butt-dyno to feel a difference, it would take around 8-10 whp. I don't see how this can make 8-10 whp. It looks nice, it cleans up the engine bay, and it is very original. But, I can't agree that it makes more power. You have no proof of this at all, but you still make the claim. On the stock set-up, the power from the wire has to pass through one primary winding at a time. On this set-up, it has to pass through two primary windings at a time. This means the second winding in the series is going to see less spark energy on the secondary winding. Now, you might be able to solve this if you run the coils paraell instead of series. But, still, unless you have monstorus cylinder pressure, it is quite pointless from a performance standpoint. Certainly, one coil is more reliable then 4 coils. So, telling someone this is more reliable then a stock set-up is also not cool.
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I did this several weeks back, followed his direction. BTW doesn't work when wired parallel. I noticed no change in mpg (however I am running lean without surge or ping, but I can't say it's due to the coils....). Anyhow, I haven't been able to test the acceleration yet, that is coming soon with a trip to the track, but even that can't be conclusive because I have done several mods since the last time. Anyhow, I did this because I want as much spark energy as I can get to help with running lean. I got the coils from the junkyard for $5 each and the harness parts for $10, I had some aluminum strips lying around so that was free. This was cheap and I wanted to see if it would make a difference...I'm still on the fence about them, but they do look different and clean up the engine bay tremendously. However, because they don't seal up against the valve cover, water could get in (this is a remote possiblity) and anytime you hack in to the harness you stand the chance of causing troubels with your inferior soldering skylz![]()
I don't see any harm in it, if you got the money and want something different, why not?
1998 Zx2, ATX, SVTF Header, TruBendz 2.25 cat back, High Flow Cat, COP, Iceman, knocker, Powder UDP & ODP, POT's, ATX Resitor, Block Heater, Oil and Trans Pan Heaters, 5" HD Lip, Rear fender Skirts, custom speed dents and lots of miles and smiles
5 hp is easily noticable although 8-10 would be more noticable.
And where did I say that they are more reliable than stock? You are imagining stuff. But I do have this to add.
.”Direct Fire
Direct fire systems employ one coil on each spark plug and is the most reliable system used today, (this type of system is used on most modern cars). Each coil fires sequentially in the cylinder firing order which allows direct-fire, coil manufacturers to build compact, lightweight coils that retain sufficient spark energy. There are no moving parts to wear out and no HT leads that will deteriorate. The lack of HT leads in direct fire systems is a major advantage for an EFI-equipped car because there is a very low incidence of noise due to leaking or improperly routed wires. There have been incidences of the terminal from a direct-fire coil (that attaches to the spark plug) cracking and subsequently causing Radio Frequency Interference (RFI) or “noise” to the ECU. This will cause engine operation problems, but it should be noted that these cases are extremely rare
EDIT:
I agree.
Last edited by conquest-king; 11-03-2009 at 01:28 PM.
2001, SVTF DSI, 3"CAI, Obx header, Coilovers, Powder UDP, AC/PS delete, B&M Short Shifter, Leather Seats, 21MM Swaybar, Polyurethane Bushings, Custom FORD Emblems, Clear Cornered Projector Headlights, Tinted LED tailights, LED License Plate Lights, LED Center Reflector, Paint Matched M3 Mirrors, Vent Visors, 2.25" pipe no cat Magnaflow Muffler, Ported TB, Rear Tie Bar, MX-3 Rear Disc Swap, C.O.P. System, XCAL2, OCC.
You didn't outright say it is more reliable then stock, but there is no way to tell if it is at least as reliable as stock. What is your source on that quote about COP? Also, that can only apply to a stock system that would fire each coil individually.
Unless something was wrong with your previous coil or wires, then there is no way there was a noticable gain in power.
Is the signal from the PCM too weak to fire a paraell circuit? I know you have to use a signal amplifier with the DIS-2 box. But, you can't ignore that the second coil in the system is going to get less primary engergy, therefore less spark energy. Also, if you are running lean, the COP wouldn't keep it from pinging. More or less spark energy is not going to have an effect on spark knock. Acutally, less energy might help on knock because there will be more unburnt fuel to keep the cylinder and plug cool. In that case, the COP might be preventing spark knock after all.
IMHO, if you want to be reliable, keep it as close to stock as possible. Maybe we can talk Pure into doing the COP conversion to find out if it will make a difference with that much increased cylinder pressure.
Do you even know what the secondary output of those coils is?
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This is what I said you are the one making the claims and putting shit in my mouth. lol
And my wires were brand new.
Read this http://www.aa1car.com/library/copign.htm and about a hundred other articles and maybe then you will know the reason many auto manufacturers use these today. You also might find out why so many other people switch there cars to these. DSM, Honda to name a few I mean if it is good for a 500hp+ DSM I think they will work just fine for the Z.
They are legit, get over it.
2001, SVTF DSI, 3"CAI, Obx header, Coilovers, Powder UDP, AC/PS delete, B&M Short Shifter, Leather Seats, 21MM Swaybar, Polyurethane Bushings, Custom FORD Emblems, Clear Cornered Projector Headlights, Tinted LED tailights, LED License Plate Lights, LED Center Reflector, Paint Matched M3 Mirrors, Vent Visors, 2.25" pipe no cat Magnaflow Muffler, Ported TB, Rear Tie Bar, MX-3 Rear Disc Swap, C.O.P. System, XCAL2, OCC.
I don't need to read about COP to understand why it is used and the advantages of stronger spark energy and individual cylinder spark control.
I never said they wouldn't work on a 500 whp car, now you are putting 'shit' in my mouth.
What I am saying, is that on our cars (anything with a waste spark) the advantages of COP are deminished because of how our PCM fires the coil. We fire two plugs at a time (but only one coil) so the 'saturation time' is non-existant because it has no more time to charge between firing then the stock coil does. Also, wired in paraell as it is, this will reduce the spark energy to the second coil.
My problem is this. You are telling people that this conversion is reliable, gains power, and all this other wonderful stuff without any proof other then your butt and some text you got of the net that doesn't even apply to a conversion on a wastespark car. I never said that COP was not legit nor did I ever imply it. I said that the COP conversion was not worthwhile for power gain on our cars. Certainly, if you want a custom look and a clean engine bay, then this conversion is right for you. But, if you are looking for more power, not going to happen. You'll get more spark energy from the stock system and if you absolutely need more spark energy, the MSD DIS2 box would be a safer, proven, and more reliable choice.
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I would also like to add that on some (not all) cases I have seen these setups burn up the coil drivers in the ECM on a lot of DSM's. ZX2's may be different so I guess you could be the first to let us know in a few months, years, w/e.
But like I said before and like Brad is saying...there is no reason for 99% of the people on here to even be looking in this direction.
One of his plug wires was loose before, thats why the boost in power. As for spark i just use NGK iridiums and i love em....I really dont think these are nessesary but it sure is unique and looks nice.
2002 blue zx2 mtx, ebay true cold air intake, s/r ecu Xgh3, obx 4-2-1 header,2.5 inch exhuast with glasspack, %40 udp, b&m short shifter, poor mans a/c delete, pots mod, stange 2 racing clutch, MFactory LSD.
grip: tokico struts, 21 mm sway bar, motor mount inserts.
1998 zx2 D.D. red MTX, keman mod, borla muffler, knock mod. looking for cheap header.
I am done arguing about this you guys can listen to someone that has them or someone that doesnt the choice is yours.
zx2racer you dont know what ur talking about.
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Last edited by conquest-king; 11-04-2009 at 02:56 PM.
I know a lot of people with turbo cars that know nothing about boost. Just because someone owns something doesn't mean they know a lot about it.
Read the Welcome thread before you ask questions, please <---CLICK
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TO4E (Ebay knock-off) at 10 psi.
13.92 at 106 mph
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I dont just own em, I designed this system for our cars, big difference!
2001, SVTF DSI, 3"CAI, Obx header, Coilovers, Powder UDP, AC/PS delete, B&M Short Shifter, Leather Seats, 21MM Swaybar, Polyurethane Bushings, Custom FORD Emblems, Clear Cornered Projector Headlights, Tinted LED tailights, LED License Plate Lights, LED Center Reflector, Paint Matched M3 Mirrors, Vent Visors, 2.25" pipe no cat Magnaflow Muffler, Ported TB, Rear Tie Bar, MX-3 Rear Disc Swap, C.O.P. System, XCAL2, OCC.
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