So these are K sprt coilovers for a 323? This is pretty cool. How much did they cost? with the slight modifications to use would you say there worth it? You dont have to answer these questions until you get them 100% working, just curious though. Subscribed!
ksport also makes 13 , 14, and 15 inch big brake kits for the 323 hmmm
Okay, I am dropping her off at my mechanic to take care of the brake line attachments tonight. If all goes well I should heve her back tomorrow afternoon. I will see if I can test drive the car then (the alignment is wayyyyyy off).
Seems the price has gone up a little. CMZ-162-KP model
Last edited by Jaybird; 05-28-2008 at 12:30 PM.
98 ATX w/CTA,JBA,2.25 exhaust & highflow cat, Crower intake cam, essy udp, essy intake cam gear, SCT 4-way chip, CRAPPY Jayco tranny, Ksport coilovers, Rage 5.0 16" wheels, WW kit, custom Hyundai Accent wing, and full police siren/pa set-up
Okay, so the brake line issue is corrected. I got to drive it to work today. My initial reaction is that they are good. I set them to full firmness. That being said I was expecting a bit of a firmer/more harsh ride. I thought it would have virtually no movement at all. I noticed that the springs are slightly progressive (less space between each coil as you get down to the bottom) so I assume that help the comfort factor out. I am getting some rear tire rub on hard cornering, so it looks like a little more fender rolling is in order. I am comparing all this to my previous set up with G/C's and worn out Mazdaspeed 4-way adj struts. With those I had more bounce than I do know. Now it is more like short "chops" rather than bounces. I think the springs on the GC's were a bit firmer though (which I prefer), but having properly funtions struts again is great. I still need to lower the front at least one full turn and then I will get the much needed alighnment. Another plus is that the springs stay seated on rebounds unlike the GC's which is realy nice...no more noise from that department. Tuening feels a bit more tight which is good too (again functioning struts). I have come back into a reocurring issue though (not a Ksport only issue) It seems something is not correct with my rear passenger strut. On my GC set up I had to use an extra washer to stop the strut shaft from not properly locking into palce (best description I have of the propblem) and now it seems I need to do the same w/the Ksports. I have no idea why this happends. More updates to follow.
^The driver rear...you can see that I had to grind down a section to make it fit (not perfectly circular now)
Just a pic of the driver front installed
^Pic from above. the round part int he middle allows for strut firmness to be changed. The allen screws when loosend allow camber to be adjusted.
^ A pic from below of the front cross-member bar. It is only about 3.5 inches off the ground. I had the camera sitting ont he ground for this shot. This is my #1 reason I can't go any lower and keep it drivable. It usually is the first thing to scrape.
^ A side shot
Trying to roll the fender some more. The tire rubs on med to hard cornering.
^Just a rear side shot
Last edited by Jaybird; 06-01-2008 at 12:46 PM.
Dude that thing is seriously slammed. It it lookin fresh to the max, lol.
What strut bar do you have?
Je Pistons, Crower Rods, FC Mains, Clevite Bearings, ARP hardware, JohnP head, SVT HG, 71 lb injectors, Crower titanium springs and retainers, OBX fuel rail, Aeromotive FPR, FRIM, Crown Vic TB, Wings West, Ground Controls, S/r Tokico, Tial 38mm wastegate, Precision Turbo, 3" DP, P/S/ A/C delete, Tial Q BOV, XCal3, 80mm MAF, Spec Stage 5, MFactory LSD, Motegi Tracklites, 3" Trubendz
Labor: 3+ years
I love the color of your car, looks very good. I think the k-sports may go on my list of things to do next year. Great work!!
Aren't those adjusting nuts on the treaded part ? How could you ever adjust corner weights ? Or height.
Nice setup man.
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