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Thread: Upgrade to an altenator made for a van, 130 amp

  1. #16

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    That doesn't help.

    SPEAKY THE ENGLISH!

  2. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by fireguy View Post
    is this 130 amps at idle? there's a high output zx2 one on ebay that's 105 at idle and 200+ at 1200rpm and that's only $200. everywhere i look around here for that e series one is $120+ new including a core charge so why not just pay the extra $80 for the high output one?

    You usually can't return things bought from eBay though.

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    English! Do you speak it??

  4. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Buster View Post
    You usually can't return things bought from eBay though.

    From the listing:

    "You may return any item purchased within 15 days for a full refund."

  5. #20

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    i would do this if somone did this before that knows how to really do it. I need a bigger alt due to needing the power



    ~Fuzzy
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  6. #21

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    dude, you guys are lazy yo.. it's close but whatever

    "This tutorial one is so that we can reinforce the cable of diet of the alternator which us to help to diminish it fallen of the voltage in the alternator and garantizaria that the 95 amp that offers the alternator they were in our system, This means that permitiria that our system of audio and some systems work of better way, be called vidiros electricos, light of the panel descend not of intensity, Good installers recommend this by a lot and to acquire a capacitor.

    Before initiating you assure you of having a hammer, flat, given of 10 and 8, cable 4awg, 2awg or 0 awg aprox 1,5 m

    1. In my case I am going to reinforce the cable of current that goes of the alternator to the battery, ┬┐The cable can be substituted? If if it is able I by questions you practice alone reinforce him with a caliber 4 awg and I put him a portafusible

    Here to do it he dismantle not the alternator, alone we disconnect this connector with the flat hammer marked in the drawing as Not 2 (red) and we withdraw a chupon that protects the cable of the alternator Not 1 (Blue), with a given 10 small and the rattle of 3/8 therefore does not have a lot of space.

    After to have withdrawn with a connector of ring that we place to the cable reinforced we assure it ahi same and the extreme, clear to the bateria.

    2. The step two is to reinforce our land, This equal with a cable 4awg. Here connect it to this point and the battery this with the given 8.

    3. It is recommendable to connect a point of the motor to land, this with a cable tambioen of 4wg

    That even this slope and I renewed the post as soon as finds it fact"

    the last part just says "thanks, compliments and questions are welcome"
    Last edited by fireguy; 04-22-2008 at 02:49 PM.

  7. #22

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    ok, maybe i can't really make out much lol..

  8. #23

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    me sa no understand

    ~Fuzzy

  9. #24

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    lol and guys i said earlier i did this before...i used like 4 washers per bolt and it worked fine....

  10. #25

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    how thick of washers

    ~Fuzzy

  11. #26

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    lol...look at it differently use just enough washers so that it doesnt touch... i didnt mike the washers before i put them on i just used trial and error

  12. #27

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    ah ok well when i can get a few bucks together ill buy one or find one in the junk yard

    ~Fuzzy

  13. #28

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    I would like to see that alternator that puts out 100 amps at idle. Must be huge.

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    Quote Originally Posted by fireguy View Post
    no, for the heavy duty zx2 one it's just a one year. the e series van ones come with a three year warranty every place in town here though

    EDIT: idk how many amps i need, i want to push a 2500 watt rms sub and probably amp my speakers too. do you happen to know how to determine that? i swear there's some formula..
    200 amps would give you 2400 watts.

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    Quote Originally Posted by fireguy View Post
    This was what i was lookin for:

    "Q: What's the biggest amp I can hook up to my car's electrical system?

    A: Your car's alternator ampere rating determines how powerful an amplifier you can install. Multiply the ampere rating by 40%, and you'll get a rough idea of how much reserve current capacity your car's system has. Next, you'll need to calculate the approximate current draw of the amplifier you're considering installing.

    To calculate the current draw of an amplifier, multiply the number of channels by the RMS watts per channel (a 2 channel amp rated at 300 watts RMS per channel would be 600 watts). Double it to account for amplifier inefficiency (600 watts X 2 = 1200 watts), then divide by the average output Voltage of an alternator, 13.8 volts (1200 divided by 13.8 = 87 amps). Since the average music signal requires about 1/3rd of the average power in a test tone, divide by 3 (87 amps divided by 3 = 29 amps). The result is the amplifier's approximate average current draw.

    A fast-and-nasty way to ballpark an amplifier's current draw is to divide the total fuse value of the amp by two. For amplifiers with multiple fuses, the rating of all fuses provided with the amp must be added together. This will likely produce a significantly higher estimate than using the proper formula. Although inaccurate, this will err on the side of safety.

    Finally, compare the amplifier's approximate current draw to your vehicle's reserve current capacity to determine if the electrical system can support the amplifier.

    If all those numbers are a bit much, here's a simpler way to think about it: an alternator capable of producing 65 amperes is usually adequate for systems up to 270 X 2 watts RMS. A compact car with a 35-amp alternator can accommodate around 150 X 2 watts of power, while a Sport Utility with a 145-amp alternator can handle a 600 X 2 watt system. A capacitor can help if your system is drawing a little too much power. Car audio competitors often replace their vehicle's alternators with heavy-duty upgrades to accommodate big power demands."
    The stock alternator will put out 1140 watts.

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