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Thread: Upgrade to an altenator made for a van, 130 amp

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    Default Upgrade to an altenator made for a van, 130 amp

    I think these are 130 amp altenators. The lure here is that it fits kinda easy and comes with a warranty from the store you get it from. Here is the Auto Zone part number:


    You can see it looks very similar to the ZX2 altenator.



    You can see in the next picture that the new alt doesn't have the extender on it. No matter, just remove the one from your old alt and put it on the new one.


    The body of this alt is larger then the body of the ZX2 alt. You can use some spacers to clear the intake manifold. I'm not sure if you'll need a larger belt or not. If I find out, I'll let you know. All the other connectors are the same. For information on removing the altenator, see my other how-to:
    http://www.teamzx2.com/showthread.php?t=248
    Last edited by ZX2Fast; 04-18-2008 at 06:15 AM.

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    what kinda van is the alternator of

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    Quote Originally Posted by catch23.5 View Post
    what kinda van is the alternator of
    x2 and how much ?
    when the blue cover all !

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    It is from the E series and prices vary by region. You have the part number, just call and ask the price.

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    so did you ever find out if the belt size is still the same?

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    just cause your sooooo cool - Gunslinger Hope you enjoyed the "dragon" - zx2loon enjoy the sandwich! - carbonzx2 

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    did anyone ever actually try it? Several people were "going to" but I never saw confirmation of it
    My Worklogs
    The Blue Car -ported, polished, cammed
    2000 ZX2 S/R -stockish

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    i had it on my old car...i just used washers and my tensioner was able to stretch far enough

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    is this 130 amps at idle? there's a high output zx2 one on ebay that's 105 at idle and 200+ at 1200rpm and that's only $200. everywhere i look around here for that e series one is $120+ new including a core charge so why not just pay the extra $80 for the high output one?

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    Quote Originally Posted by fireguy View Post
    is this 130 amps at idle? there's a high output zx2 one on ebay that's 105 at idle and 200+ at 1200rpm and that's only $200. everywhere i look around here for that e series one is $120+ new including a core charge so why not just pay the extra $80 for the high output one?
    Does that 200 amp altenator have a lifetime free replacement warranty? If you don't need 200 amps then why pay for 200 amps?

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    Quote Originally Posted by ZX2Fast View Post
    Does that 200 amp altenator have a lifetime free replacement warranty? If you don't need 200 amps then why pay for 200 amps?
    no, for the heavy duty zx2 one it's just a one year. the e series van ones come with a three year warranty every place in town here though

    EDIT: idk how many amps i need, i want to push a 2500 watt rms sub and probably amp my speakers too. do you happen to know how to determine that? i swear there's some formula..
    Last edited by fireguy; 04-21-2008 at 02:43 PM.

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    Auto Zone's Duralast are lifetime.

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    alright, there isn't an auto zone near me. did you know anything about figuring out how much amps your alt can handle?

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    I think the stock alt is 90 amps.

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    This was what i was lookin for:

    "Q: What's the biggest amp I can hook up to my car's electrical system?

    A: Your car's alternator ampere rating determines how powerful an amplifier you can install. Multiply the ampere rating by 40%, and you'll get a rough idea of how much reserve current capacity your car's system has. Next, you'll need to calculate the approximate current draw of the amplifier you're considering installing.

    To calculate the current draw of an amplifier, multiply the number of channels by the RMS watts per channel (a 2 channel amp rated at 300 watts RMS per channel would be 600 watts). Double it to account for amplifier inefficiency (600 watts X 2 = 1200 watts), then divide by the average output Voltage of an alternator, 13.8 volts (1200 divided by 13.8 = 87 amps). Since the average music signal requires about 1/3rd of the average power in a test tone, divide by 3 (87 amps divided by 3 = 29 amps). The result is the amplifier's approximate average current draw.

    A fast-and-nasty way to ballpark an amplifier's current draw is to divide the total fuse value of the amp by two. For amplifiers with multiple fuses, the rating of all fuses provided with the amp must be added together. This will likely produce a significantly higher estimate than using the proper formula. Although inaccurate, this will err on the side of safety.

    Finally, compare the amplifier's approximate current draw to your vehicle's reserve current capacity to determine if the electrical system can support the amplifier.

    If all those numbers are a bit much, here's a simpler way to think about it: an alternator capable of producing 65 amperes is usually adequate for systems up to 270 X 2 watts RMS. A compact car with a 35-amp alternator can accommodate around 150 X 2 watts of power, while a Sport Utility with a 145-amp alternator can handle a 600 X 2 watt system. A capacitor can help if your system is drawing a little too much power. Car audio competitors often replace their vehicle's alternators with heavy-duty upgrades to accommodate big power demands."

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    That´s right !

    If i found it, i going to replace stock.

    one option is reinforce to take advantage of 95amp. (stock)

    Its in spanish , i hope help you

    Este tutorial es para que podamos reforzar el cable de alimentación del alternador lo cual nos ayudar a disminuir la caida del voltaje en el alternador y garantizaria que los 95 amp que ofrece el alternador estuvieran en nuestro sistema, Esto quiere decir que permitiria que nuestro sistema de audio y algunos sistemas trabajen de mejor modo, llamese vidiros electricos, luz del tablero no se baje de intensidad, etc, Además los buenos instaladores recomiendan esto por mucho y por encima de adquirir un capacitor.

    Antes de iniciar asegurate de tener un desarmador, plano , dado de 10 y 8, cable 4awg, 2awg o 0 awg aprox 1.5 m

    1.- En mi caso voy a reforzar el cable de corriente que va del alternador a la bateria, ¿El cable se puede substituir ? Si si se puede yo por cuestiones practicas solo lo reforze con un calibre 4 awg y le puse un portafusible



    Aqui para hacerlo no desmonte el alternador, solo desconectamos este conector con el desarmador plano marcado en el dibujo como No 2 (rojo) y retiramos un chupon que protege el cable del alternador No 1 (Azul), con un dado 10 pequeño y la matraca de 3/8 pues no se tiene mucho espacio.

    Luego de haberlo retirado con un conector de anillo que colocamos al cable reforzado lo aseguramos ahi mismo y el extremo, claro a la bateria.





    2.- El paso dos es reforzar nuestra tierra, Esto igual con un cable 4awg. Aqui lo conecte a este punto y la bateria esto con el dado 8.



    3.- Es recomendable conectar un punto del motor a tierra , esto con un cable tambioen de 4wg

    Ese aun esta pendiente y renovare el post en cuanto lo halla hecho



    Saludos y comentarios o conplementos bienvenidos

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