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Thread: Zetec00's Turbo ZX2 Parts Guide

  1. #1

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    Default Zetec00's Turbo ZX2 Parts Guide

    Credit goes to Doug, aka Zetec00
    To start off, the purpose of this parts list, is to inform those who want to turbocharge their ZX2, and get them started in the right direction. This is by no means a step by step how-to. If anyone has anything to add, let me know and I will add it. Also, I am always happy to answer any questions anyone may have about turbocharging our cars. Just send me a PM HERE:
    http://teamzx2.com/private.php?do=newpm&u=4984

    1. Induction - Cone filter, intake piping, silicone couplers & t-bolt clamps, charge piping, intercooler, blow off valve, maf
    2. Fuel - pump, injectors
    3. PCV - catch can, baffle
    4. Exhaust - turbo manifold, wastegate, downpipe, dump pipe, exhaust
    5. Turbo
    6. Oiling - feed line, drain line, fittings (head, turbo, pan)
    7. Drivetrain - clutch, motor mounts
    8. Cooling - thermostat, fan
    9. Tuning - Xcal, wideband, gauges
    10. Miscellaneous - boost hoses, vacuum tees & adapters
    11. Advice


    1. The intake to the compressor inlet is pretty self explanatory. I used 2.5" charge pipes. You can use a Greddy or HKS blow off valve, but I recommend an HKS. Most people use a Ford Cobra MAF, but you will have to wire in an IAT sensor pigtail, as those have the MAF separate from the IAT.

    2. Depending on your power goals, a Mustang GT fuel pump will be adequate, or if you can find an SVT Focus pump, those are even better. I would recommend just buying a set of Ford Racing 42# fuel injectors. These are the ones with the green tops.

    3. You will need an oil catch can, as forced induction produces more blow by gases. If you can, try to keep the stock PCV baffle. If not, there are a couple companies that make replacements that you can use.

    4. You'll need a turbo manifold with the same turbine inlet flange as your turbocharger. The most popular is the T3 variant. The wastegate is what allows exhaust gases to bypass the turbo and maintain a steady boost pressure. The downpipe, dump pipe, and connections to the exhaust system on your car will all require custom fabrication. A minimum of 2.5" exhaust is recommended for the turbo back exhaust.

    5. You don't need a large turbo to get 200whp. Use a small one, and it will get you to that power level and it will spool fast.

    6. Most people take the turbo oil feed from the head. There are two 1/8" NPT plugs on the driver's side of the head. One is behind the coil pack, and the other is above the thermostat housing. -3AN or -4AN is standard for the oil feed on the turbo, there are many 1/8" to -3AN/-4AN adapters available. You'll also need to install an oil restrictor, so the oil pressure doesn't blow the seals on the turbo. -10AN is standard for the oil drain from the turbo. You'll need to drain the oil from the turbo back to the oil pan or windage tray. I'd recommend just getting a -10AN bung welded to the pan or windage tray. Do it once, do it right.

    7. At the very least, you'll need to install a clutch. The stock one will hold up, but only for awhile. It wouldn't hurt to install some Energy Suspension motor mounts either.

    8. It's a good idea to install a 180 degree thermostat, the stock one is 195 degree. You'll also need to install a slim fan, because I doubt you'll be able to fit a turbo down there with the stock fan. Some guys have had to move their radiator to a new location, but I was able to keep it in the stock location, so it is possible that no modification is needed to the radiator.

    9. For tuning, the most popular option is SCT, but Sniper also has stuff available, and some people on here swear by them. For SCT, you'll need an Xcal 2 or 3, as well as a wideband controller. I installed an Innovate LC-1 wideband, and I highly recommend it. The wiring is not that difficult, just read and familiarize yourself with which wires are for what. At the very least, you'll need a boost gauge & air/fuel ratio gauge. An oil pressure gauge is also a very good idea.

    10. You'll also need boost hoses, vacuum tees & adapters to fit our intake manifold.

    11. Custom fabrication will be required for a turbo project, but it is not too difficult. Find a good exhaust shop, welding shop & machine shop. All these will help you alot in the long run. Try to keep as much of the car as stock as possible! Also, unless you're making huge hp, there is just no need to change the intake manifold, port the head, or get turbo cams, etc. The turbo is the power adder, and all that other stuff is not required. The Zetec, in stock form, provides good torque at low rpms, which helps spool the turbo quicker, and by doing that other stuff you take away some of that torque down low, and you increase spool time.

    Here are some good websites that I bought parts from.
    http://www.atpturbo.com
    http://www.siliconeintakes.com
    http://www.summitracing.com/
    http://focus.c-f-m.com/forcedinduction.aspx
    http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/
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  2. #2

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    Default

    subscribed good info for noobs
    00, mtx, b&m shortshifter, sparco boot and knob,zxtuner header,2.5 in borla exhaust,sr drop, knock mod,K&n intake,zxtuner adj cam gears,vct delete,full ac delete,lxq2 superchipped,es motor mounts. turbo soon!-TOTALLED!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by kurtcrosbie View Post
    I figure since the noise is affected by the ac being switched on and off, it must be the ac clutch or pulley. Is that not a good assumption? How would I determine which pulley it is if all of them spin normal?

    Sent from my SCH-I800 using Tapatalk
    Quote Originally Posted by dareall View Post
    you have a lot of miles on your car. Plus your car is over 13 years old. Realistically you are probably due for the clutch replacement on your compressor.

    Sent from my laptop with me typing all my own shit

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by texaszx2 View Post
    subscribed good info for noobs
    Thanks!

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    Default

    Interesting info.....you forgot a general price point....and yes I mean average price point. Give or take brand names and quality a price point will give people an $ ammount to build up to.

    I would say, most people can boost their Z safley to 200hp for around 2K....give or take prices on parts, type of parts, name brand, deals, loaner parts etc.

    Anyone?? Bueler?? Bueler??

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    Put this in sideways!! Ouch! - Beodude123 thanks - outkastrooster mmmmm sausage!!!! lol - Zach :( sorry to hear that you no longer can get it up on your own. We are praying for ya - Zach 
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    I can say I bought a working kit for like 2.5k. However, if you are going to go that far. Do it right . Otherwise you will be without a car or having to repair parts off it consistantly

    2000 Yellow S/R- , FZ racing header,Full ES kit, tinted tails, pnp intake mani, pnp tb, Focus armrest, 03 Radio dash kit, LED swap in gauges, Recessbilly's Yellow stitched ebrake boot and shift boot, Zxtuner CF hood, CF cowl, Progress STB, Fez PC'ed 98 vc with SPC, ES mounts, Mfactory LSD, sedan 5th gear, Fidanza LW Flywheel,R1 Cross drilled and slotted rotors, PC'ed Front and rear hubs, PC'ed Front and rear calipers, PC'ed trans mount, Cougar door switch conversion, Rota 16" grids, corksport shifter bearings

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  6. #6

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    I would recommend a budget of $3k. This will allow you to do the job right.

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