Today I used Mothers Clay Bar on the entire car then used mothers Carbuna Cleaner Wax. I just wanted an all in one solition to lay down a coat. Eventually I will use a proper 3 step wax but good enough for me.
I'd like to put slightly larger tires on the car to give it more of a lowered stance but that will come next springs. I'll go with 215/45r16 or 205/50r16. I'm also getting older and finding the 45 series tire rides rough, I enjoy the ride on the 205/55r15 tires much better.
1998 Ford Escort ZX2 ATX
Bolt-On's, Tuned, Stalled, D.O.T Slicks
16.3@82mph, 2.38 60ft
1998 Ford Escort ZX2 MTX (Sold)
Cone Filter, Muffler Delete, Spec Stage 1 Clutch
16.2@83MPH, 2.34 60ft
Nice job man, you're car is super clean and i'm jealous
I think a dark grey or black would look best with T-Red. I wish my car looked that nice, but it helps yours isn't a daily.
-'03 ZX2 MTX Twilight Blue, Progress Springs, S/R Struts, 17" Konig Kolors Gunmetal, EGT Rear Discs, STB, 19mm RSB, LXQ1, Iceman Intake, Esslinger UDP, TWM Short Shifter, S/R Shift Knob, MX3 Seats, 35%/20% Tint, Pioneer DEH-9400BH, Polk Audio 6.5", PowerBass Amp, Rockford Fosgate 10", RE Audio Amp, DDM HIDs, Projector Headlights, LED Conversion
looks good bud
Alright so just came back from my dad's shop and I'm getting Sponsorship for the races in two weeks. The owner is paying my entrance fee of $100, so that's awesome! He is also having a set of 12x18" Magnet door decals made up to represent the shop.
I'm trying to bug my dad to change out the converter at the shop since they have several lifts which would make it easy, if not then a friend said I could use his garage but man that would be a sucky job pulling a tranny with no lift, but I'm sure it's doable.
Last edited by 5Speed; 06-01-2012 at 11:37 AM.
Parts for sale:
EMA0 6-wire ATX PCM (best!) and stock (98-99.5 style) intake manifold here
04/2011 - present: 1999 black zx2 (mtx), hotshot intake, powder's udp.
05/2009 - 04/2011: 1999 black zx2 (auto): hotshot intake, powder's udp.
The converter is going in tomorrow afternoon. It's suppose to be horrible weather so he decided do the converter.
Everyone tells me a converter should reduce my E.T by .5 of a second. Some people seen as little as .3 and some people seen a full 1 second reduction depending how poor the factory converter matted up to the engine combo.
Converter is in the car. This is absolutely the first thing I should have done to my car. This is the best modification I have ever installed in any car and the first aftermarket torque converter I've ever put in. It took me and my dad from 11AM to 6:30PM to take it out swap the converter and put it back in.
When I floor the accelerator the car flashes to 3500rpm instead of the 2400-2500 it did before, on street tires I'm getting some wheel spin and absolutely no bog of any sort, just pulls. Driving around town is normal, a tad bit more pedal is required to get the car to move then before but not much. Driving around town in 3rd gear @25mph I push the accelerator down 1/4 way and the torque shoots the rpms to 3500 and the car just immediadely pulls without downshifting. The car sounds wayyy different then before it sounds like a CVT transmission always being in your powerband. I'm so pumped about this mod you have no idea. In two weeks I'll slap the street slicks on and get some before and after time slips to compare to last year.
Big Thanks to Andre @ Edge Racing Converters, this car doesn't even drive the same anymore, you guys can keep your mtx this thing is too much fun!
I've been fighting with the car recently with a vacume leak. It blew one small hose off the back of the IM, so I put it back on and it blew off again, then I clamped it on and it still blew off. So it appears to be a non-oem vacume hose that is actually fuel injection hose. I'm going to the store tomorrow to buy the proper vacume hose. I also had a gromet for the IAT fall apart on me and really it was never the correct one to begin with. I re-drilled the hole to 5/8" and used a pcv gromet from a toyota and the IAT fits in nice and snug.
Basically those were the last things prior to going to the drags I needed to do. Next update will be my results.
So I purchased a 1/4" diameter vacume hose and that corrected the problem, now I have no issues with the hose coming off. I reset the computer and did a relearn and I still have a high idle in gear (1000-1250rpm), but within 1-2 seconds on the brakes it goes back to it's programmed idle. Idling in park has not been affected. I've been told the high stall torque doesn't apply as much load to the motor and it's idling up. I need to have a tune to compensate for the reduced load.
My car is spark knocking still from 2500-3000 rpm under medium throttle under load, I need to get this looked into but i need to install my wideband first. If I can't get ahold of Vit, I might have to result to other tuners such as Focus Power, or someone who has experience with ZX2's and will do a remote tune with me.
I had a conversation with Vit and he will retune the car later this summer.
I sent an e-mail to Colt Cams www.coltcams.com to talk with them about custom ground cams for my build. As it stands I am either going with a JohnP Head and Custom Ground Colt Cams or a Complete Nitrous Express Nitrous kit with Gen-X Nitrous Accesories(Gauge,Blow Down Tube, Bottle Heater), and a Electronic TPS Activation Switch. Either or are close to the same amount of money about $1,000 with no shipping.
I'm interested in Colt Cams Tri Flow cams with varied Duration/Lift Intake lobes on the cam. They claim no loss in the bottom end and great mid range, top end gain.
A Cylinder Head + Cams is 25-30whp. Nitrous Express Kit would be 35-50WHP depending if I use 35 or 50 Shot. Nitrous Express puts down rated power to the wheels, pretty high end Nitrous equipment.
Oh and 2 days away from makng my first run of the year at the 1/8th mile.
would all that put you in a completely different class?
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