Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 24

Thread: Which clutch to buy??

  1. #1

    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    135
    Points
    35,160
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    35,160
    Donate  

    Default Which clutch to buy??

    The time's come to buy a new clutch for my s/r and I'm not really sure what to buy. I'm hoping I can get some insight on the subject. I know the s/r's are supposed to come with the Centerforce clutch but not all of them came with them. Money is tight and I've been looking at my options. I've looked at AutoZone, NAPA, Advance Auto Parts, SPEC (stage 1), and Centerforce. They're listed from cheapest to most expensive ($174.99-386.72). I'm not ripping around, banging through gears. I mainly commute to school and do some spirited driving every once in a blue moon. Nothing too crazy. Any info is apprecaited.

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    las vegas, so cal
    Posts
    21,256
    Points
    396,572
    Bank
    69,485,904
    Total Points
    69,882,475
    Donate  
    for the superman of the zx2 savers - daggit2005 Henry Ford < Dareall - SR2000 For the entertaining builds...constantly :-) - CJW For being a great member and friend to many. - CJW you sir are awarded the medal of awsome - daggit2005 
    Scammer Slaughering Medal of Honor - Hardline this is for the candy ive got from you with my purchases the past few years. - blue99fordzx2 For moving/locking my post when asked :) - blue99fordzx2 Thx for helping me get my car put back together. - X-Lr8 It's lunch time here. lolz - rascal 
    For dealing with dumbass n00bs. - RASCAL How much for the trim piece? LOL - RASCAL Absolute hero. I cannot imagine how helpful and kind a person Dareall is.  THANK YOU. - SoCalZx2Rob For doing my part out and finally getting the parts sold.  I owe it all to you.  Thanks Dareall.  I'll never forget it.  Thank god it's finally done.  XD - SoCalZx2Rob 

    Default

    Centerforce clutch anything else is just that
    We're gonna ride the race cars
    We're gonna dance on fire

    Best sale thread ever !!

  3. #3
    oljeeptek's Avatar
    oljeeptek is offline So good I make me want to slap yo momma!

    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Frosty old Minnesota
    Posts
    2,464
    Points
    20,506
    Bank
    68,845
    Total Points
    89,351
    Donate  

    Default

    Rock auto.com has clutch kits from $109.00 and using the 5% discount will darn near cover the shipping. If moneys tight and you drive normal, it will be just fine.
    "Political Correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical, liberal minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

    "If the idiots don't like you, it proves that you're not an idiot"- the 'Nuge

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    135
    Points
    35,160
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    35,160
    Donate  

    Default

    After going back and forth for a few days, I decided to go with a clutch kit from NAPA. Hopefully by the time it needs another one I'll have a bit more money saved up. Thanks for the replies.

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Mexico City
    Posts
    512
    Points
    40,919
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    40,919
    Donate  

    Default

    glad you got one....
    Error 401 - Car not found

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    110
    Points
    34,934
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    34,934
    Donate  

    Default

    How does the Centerforce compare to OEM (non-S/R) on performance and durability? I'm in a similar boat to OP, but my cousin tunes small Fords and is going to do the labor for cheap, so I'm thinking about putting my savings toward something a little more aggressive if it makes sense. Everyone seems to have good things to say about the stock, non-S/R clutch. Is the extra cost for a Centerforce worth the gains?

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    135
    Points
    35,160
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    35,160
    Donate  

    Default

    I'm sure the Centerforce has a good bit more clamping force than the standard OEM clutch. Most aftermarket performance clutches do. If you"re driving style is aggressive and/or you have some go fast parts, a performance clutch is a good investment if the money is available.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    135
    Points
    35,160
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    35,160
    Donate  

    Default

    Update. It's been about a month since I was last on here. I never had the clutch kit installed. The mechanic said he didn't think that's what was causing the noise/clanking. He replaced the slave cylinder and the clutch master cylinder? I'm not 100% sure about that last part. That's what was written down on the receipt. I thought there was only the master cylinder and the slave cylinder?

    Anyways, I noticed the noise again the other week while I was driving. It only happens when my clutch heats up, stop and go traffic. After engaging the clutch several times to inch forward in traffic it started to knock/clatter pretty bad. It doesn't happen every time but often enough to be concerned about it. I'm not sure exactly what it is, but I believe it's the throwout bearing or something related to that causing the noise. I'm hoping to replace my clutch sometime in the near future. I've been looking at the SPEC stage 1 and 2 clutches. The stage 1 should be fine for the driving I do.

    One last thing. How much of a pain would it be to replace the clutch myself? I've looked into it and I know that there's a good bit of labor involved. Removing axles and transmission, supporting the motor, etc. I have access to a good bit of tools. I just don't want to rip my car apart and run into a problem and be stuck with my car torn halfway apart. Also, is there any special tools/bearing puller needed to remove the clutch or the pilot bearing? Thanks

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Dayton, OH
    Posts
    500
    Points
    58,559
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    58,559
    Donate  

    Default

    How many miles on transmission/clutch? The clutch/master is located on the firewall between the master cylinder and driver side fender. The slave cylinder is located on or near transmission. It seems to me if your problem was in either of these parts, then you would have had problems disengaging or engaging the clutch to put in a gear. I agree that your noise could be the throwout bearing or pilot bearing. Hopefully it is not a scyno or broken shift fork inside transmission, but I kinda doubt that since you don't mention grinding going into gear(s). The clutch would not be the hard to replace yourself, but since you haven't done it before you could definately run into some headaches. If you accidently break the crossmember bolts, you could get caught up in a major pain in the ass. I would hate to have to downgrade my S/R in any way, but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Oklahoma City, OK
    Posts
    7,946
    Points
    204,123
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    204,123
    Donate  
    Yep, thats pie. - Meta 

    Default

    you can rent most pullers from autozone (axle, pilot, etc). get a helping hand, and this task jut became much easier we're here to guide you, so don't be afraid of getting stuck. zxtwou2 has a really good guide in the knowledge base on how to drop the trans
    Quote Originally Posted by zxtwou2 View Post
    Making bigger pipe as the exhaust flowd and cools makes eddy currents ehich is what mskes rasp.

    Helping raise some cash for our long-timer ZX2Fast. Parts here: click me

    06/2016-TurdBo Vj11
    04/2011 - present: 1999 black zx2 (mtx)
    05/2009 - 04/2011: 1999 black zx2 (atx)

  11. #11

    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    San Angelo
    Posts
    847
    Points
    156,463
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    156,463
    Donate  

    Default

    You can't get to the clutch without having to take out the trans with the motor, yeah there is less space to pull the engine but it can be done, I went this route and my .02 is to take off both brackets for the a/c and power steering pump, along with the crank pulley and it should come out snug but will come out.
    dead.

  12. #12

    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    San Angelo
    Posts
    847
    Points
    156,463
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    156,463
    Donate  

    Default

    I mean you CAN get to the clutch*

  13. #13

    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    135
    Points
    35,160
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    35,160
    Donate  

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by d-dogg-e View Post
    How many miles on transmission/clutch? The clutch/master is located on the firewall between the master cylinder and driver side fender. The slave cylinder is located on or near transmission. It seems to me if your problem was in either of these parts, then you would have had problems disengaging or engaging the clutch to put in a gear. I agree that your noise could be the throwout bearing or pilot bearing. Hopefully it is not a scyno or broken shift fork inside transmission, but I kinda doubt that since you don't mention grinding going into gear(s). The clutch would not be the hard to replace yourself, but since you haven't done it before you could definately run into some headaches. If you accidently break the crossmember bolts, you could get caught up in a major pain in the ass. I would hate to have to downgrade my S/R in any way, but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.
    My car just rolled over to 104k last week. Yeah, it's the stupid little things like, broken crossmember bolts that make any job a big headache. I'm gonna have to look into some more.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mimino View Post
    you can rent most pullers from autozone (axle, pilot, etc). get a helping hand, and this task jut became much easier we're here to guide you, so don't be afraid of getting stuck. zxtwou2 has a really good guide in the knowledge base on how to drop the trans
    I wasn't sure if I would need a puller or not, but I recall reading somewhere that you needed one to remove the pilot bearing? I think I saw the tranny removal guide you mentioned. Another thing I keep in mind is if those spider gears would fall. That wouldn't be cool. I do appreciate all the help/advice I've gotten from this forum so far.

    Quote Originally Posted by NighthawkZX2 View Post
    You can't get to the clutch without having to take out the trans with the motor, yeah there is less space to pull the engine but it can be done, I went this route and my .02 is to take off both brackets for the a/c and power steering pump, along with the crank pulley and it should come out snug but will come out.
    Quote Originally Posted by NighthawkZX2 View Post
    I mean you CAN get to the clutch*
    So you took out the motor and trans as one piece?

  14. #14

    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Oklahoma City, OK
    Posts
    7,946
    Points
    204,123
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    204,123
    Donate  
    Yep, thats pie. - Meta 

    Default

    you don't have to pull the engine.

  15. #15

    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    135
    Points
    35,160
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    35,160
    Donate  

    Default

    I didn't think that was neccessary. If I attempt this I was only going to drop the tranny and install the new clutch. Does anyone have any first hand experience with the SPEC stage 2 clutch? I was wondering how they compare with the Centerforce that comes on the S/R.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •