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Thread: Cam Gear Installation version 2

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    Default Cam Gear Installation version 2

    Cam Gear Installation version 2
    Installing an Esslinger Cam Gear:

    This installation requires a working knowledge of the internal combustion engine and timing belt replacement. We recommend you have a repair manual on hand to support this information in guiding you to a successful installation.

    1. Remove the plastic upper timing gear cover (3 bolts - 8mm) and valve cover (10 bolts - 8mm), as well as disconnect the throttle linkage, spark plug wires and vct solenoid connection.

    2. Remove lower splash shield on passenger side, and turn the steering wheel to the right to gain access to the crank pulley bolt (18mm socket). Rotate the crank bolt to #1 TDC position (where the cam tool will slot into the back of the cams). Once the cam tool is lock in, turn the crank pulley clock wise gently to remove the slop on the timing belt. Then, with a marking pen, draw a line on the crank pulley that points to the bolt on the front of the oil pan. This will help you locate TDC on the crankshaft after removing the cam belt. IMPORTANT: DO NOT LEAVE THE CAM TOOL SLOTTED WHILE PERFORMING STEP 3 - Cam breakage can occur!

    3. Remove the Cam alignment tool, the Intake Cam gear bolt (T-55 torx) and the Exhaust VCT access cover (T-55 torx). Inside the vct gear, remove the exh cam gear bolt (16mm). To keep the cams from turning, there's a hex shape on the cam itself. position a wrench on it to hold the cams while you loosen
    the bolts.

    4. Loosen the timing belt tensioner bolt (10mm) and with an allen wrench (6mm) rotate the tensioner clockwise to loosen, then remove the cam gears from the cam(s).

    5. With a wrench, turn the cams so you can slide the cam alignment tool into the back slot of the cams. On a stock motor, this is possible regardless of where the piston location is. If the motor has aggressive cams or raised compression through milling or hi comp pistons, make sure none of the pistons are at TDC prior to rotating the cams. Once the cams are positioned with the cam tool slotted in place, the cams are set for #1 cyl. TDC.

    6. Using the mark you previously drawn, bring the crank/piston of #1 cyl. to TDC location. If you have an esslinger udp, the lined mark should point down toward the cooling line attaching bolt on the oil pan. If there are no marks drawn or on the pulley, you'll need to use a TDC peg bolt or a screwdriver in the #1 sparkplug hole to determine TDC.

    7. VCT GEAR ADAPTER ONLY: Install the included o-ring over the cam, then slide the vct adapter onto the cam. Place the cam gear over the vct adapter end and finger tighten the vct adapter bolt and washer. leave it loose enough to rotate the cam gear w/o rotating the cam. Gently slide the cam belt on the gears making sure the tensioner is fully loosened. BE CAREFUL! The cam belt has steel braids in it and will remember a bend or kink, causing it to wobble once installed, which can wear out a underdrive pulley or cause the belt to fail prematurely.

    8. INTAKE GEAR ONLY: Place the gear on the cam and finger tighten the bolt. Gently slide the cam belt on the gears making sure the tensioner is fully loosened. BE CAREFUL! The cam belt has steel braids in it and will remember a bend or kink, causing it to wobble once installed, which can wear out a underdrive pulley or cause the belt to fail prematurely.

    9. Once the crank gear and cams are all positioned at TDC, and the cam belt is in place, adjust the tensioner by rotating the allen hole bracket counterclockwise and then tightening the 10mm bolt (when adjusted, the "u" groove on the tensioner lever lines up with the lined mark on bracket).

    10. Tighten the cam gear bolts (remember not to put undue force on the cam tool) and with the cam tool removed, rotate the crankshaft 2 full turns and re-check the tdc location of the cams to crank, and the tensioner setting. If you kept the vct gear, it's not uncommon for the exhust vct cam's slot not to fully line up (but the intake cam or non-vct exhaust cams most definitely should).

    11. Reinstall the remaining parts and fire her up! If all is done right, shell run just like before the installation. Now you're ready to go cam tuning!

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    The exhaust cam gear bolt is actually a E20 reverse torx bolt, a 16mm didn't work when i pulled by spare head
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    I was able to remove my exhaust bolt with the metric socket. It has a be a good 12-point socket.

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    that's what i tried

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    Quote Originally Posted by mellowness65 View Post
    The exhaust cam gear bolt is actually a E20 reverse torx bolt, a 16mm didn't work when i pulled by spare head
    its a t55 too lol.

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    16mm 12 pt socket worked for me.. perfect fit.

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    Be extra sure you have the socket on square or you'll round of the bolt.
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    Be extra sure you have the socket on square or you'll round of the bolt.

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    How much power will a bigger cam give you, and what would you recamind

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    In my opinion bigger cams arnt going to do much justice if u dont have a ported and polished head to let em do the extra work they will want to be doing. In other worsa a bigger cam needs more aiur and fuel. If u are running a stock rrstricted head the cams will be suffocating and the gains will be minimum.
    Pass em in the low groove 3 wide

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