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Thread: How to install your MFactory LSD.

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    Thanks for the how to video - texzetec A toast to Ron Paul :D - powder To you and your family bud. - RASCAL 

    Default How to install your MFactory LSD.

    Tools
    *Impact (electric can work, air is much better)
    *Metric sockets and extensions
    *Pry-bar
    *32 mm socket
    *Hammer
    *Rubber mallet or block of wood
    *Ft-lbs torque wrench
    *Someone to help if you can manage it
    *Angle grinder or air powered chisel if you plan to remove and install the ring gear yourself.

    Supplies
    *MFactory LSD and bearings
    *Input and output shaft nuts

    *VSS gear (can be ordered from Ford or use your old one)
    *Sealant (I use The Right Stuff since it dries faster)

    Getting started
    You'll need a large enough area to work in to lay out tools and keep parts without knocking everything over. You'll need a bench vice to torque down the bolts for the MFactory ring gear. If you don't wish to do all the work to remove the ring gear and install it to the LSD, then take your diff out and take the diff and LSD to a machine shop and ask them to remove the ring gear and the VSS, then install them onto the LSD along with the new bearings. There is a bit of work involved to get the stuff you need off of the old diff so if you can afford the 3 or 4 hours of labor the shop is likely to charge you, then go that route. Even if you decide to put the ring gear on yourself, you'll at least have to have them press the bearings on it, unless you have a press, so make sure the VSS gear is on the MFactory BEFORE they press the bearings on it.

    If you decide to reuse your old VSS, you'll have to have the bearing removed or cut it off yourself to get to it. I used a cut-off wheel on a rotary tool to cut the old bearing off and pull the VSS off. It is a very small area to work in and is easy to damage the VSS beyond use since it is plastic. They are cheap enough (less than $15) you should just buy a new one.

    1. Put the tranny in neutral. You can use a screwdriver through the shift input to help you move it around. Just like neutral with the shifter, you'll be able to move the input side-to-side.


    2. Remove the VSS sensor by removing the bracket that holds it and then pull the sensor out. The bracket is held in place by one bolt. This one was stuck so I used a MAPP gas torch to heat the housing around it and then rotated the sensor and pulled it out.


    3. Notice the orientation of the tranny, remove the reverse switch.


    4. Remove the bolt the socket is on, it is the reverse idler bolt and once removed, you should be able to see that there is a threaded hole on the other side that is not part of the tranny case.


    5. The next bolt holds the ball and spring in. You'll need a magnet to remove the spring and ball. If you don't do this now, you'll lose that ball.



    6. Now we remove the shift rail guide bolt. This is a special bolt so keep track of where it goes as it has a tip for the rail to ride on.



    7. Now we can remove the rear pan. The pan is a good place to keep all the bolts you remove so they aren't scattered around the floor. Take the bolts out and use the mallet (or hammer with block of wood) to hit the pan from the side to break the seal and remove the pan.


    Notice in the picture below that I'm pointing to a bit of plastic. This is where the tranny fluid comes out to dump over the gears. I almost always break these damn things and have never had an issue from it. When you use the mallet to knock the pan off, hit it from the other side to avoid breaking the plastic. If you do end up breaking it, it really isn't that big of a deal.


    8. You have to un-stake the input and output shaft nuts before you can remove them. You'll need something with a tip small enough to push the top of the nut out of the groove in the shaft. I used a punch with a pointed tip as you can see in the picture. Of course, you have to hit it with a hammer to get it out of the groove.




    9. Use the impact and 32mm socket to remove the nuts from the input and output shaft. The air powered impact takes these off with just a few hits of the trigger. The electric impact I used requires a load to act like an impact (otherwise it just spins without actually hammering) so I had to put the tranny in 5th gear and hold the input shaft (where it goes into the tranny, you know, where the throw-out bearing is) by hand with a glove on. If you have to do this, put the tranny back in neutral when you are finished.

    10. Once the nuts are off, you'll need to remove the roll pin that holds the 5th gear fork on the rod. I used a small punch this time (in the past I've used a drill bit) and then gently hammered the roll pin out as you can see in the picture below.


    10a. Once the pin is out, you can pull the gear and fork off as one. BE CERTAIN you lay all of these parts on a flat surface so you can put them back on exactly the way they came off. The 5th gear set has blocking rings in it that have to go back in where they came from or you won't be able to shift.


    11. Now we can remove the bolts and separate the tranny case halves. You can see that the rear tranny mount has bolts that go through the case so it'll need to be removed. There are also two bend clips that hold up a couple of wire harnesses so use a marker to mark the location of the clips and orientation of the rear tranny mount. Go ahead and remove all of the case bolts now.


    11a.With all of the bolts out you can separate the case. Don't pry on any mating surface or you'll have a leak. There are a couple of spots around the case where you can pry between without getting into the mating surface. If you have to pry on a mating surface, don't let your pry tool slip and don't hit it with a hammer.



    Once you get the case apart, remove and check the magnet for any large chunks. Fine shavings are normal and expected so don't freak out when your magnet looks like the one in the picture. Clean the magnet off and put it back. Just make sure it doesn't hitch a ride on the diff when you are done with the tranny.


    12. Time to pry the diff out. This is why I remove the VSS, it is a lot easier to get this out and the new one in. Just pry on it from the side like the picture below and pull it out by the bearing. The output shaft may come up a bit when you pry on the diff and this is okay.



    If you are having a shop remove the ring gear and install it to the LSD, then you can skip to step 14. Be sure you put the VSS gear on before you let them have it or make sure they understand the VSS gear has to be installed before they put the bearings on it.

    13. You have to remove the rivets that hold the ring gear in place so you can use this ring gear on the MFactory.


    13a. I used an angle grinder to grind off the back of the rivets and then knock them out with a hammer and punch. Grind the back of them all at once and then let it cool for 20 minutes before you handle it. This thing will be hotter than Satan's' farts. Be sure you grind from the back like pictured or you'll damage the gear and you won't be able to use it. The back is the side that faces up while in the tranny, it is also the side without the VSS gear.


    13b. Drop the ring gear down over the MFactory (exactly the way it was on the stock diff), put a bit of red Loc-tite on the bolts, and put all the bolts in by hand getting them as tight as you can by hand. Note: These bolts are left-hand thread so you will turn the bolts counter-clockwise to tighten them

    13c. Mount the whole thing in the bench vise as shown so you can tighten down the bolts. Get them snug with a regular wrench or ratchet before you do use the torque wrench. Remember, these are left-hand thread bolts.


    13d. Tighten them down in a criss-cross pattern to 65 ft-lbs. I used a marker to mark the ones I torqued down. basically, start with one and then moving clockwise, skip two and tighten down the 3rd one. If you do it this way, you'll make three trips around the ring gear and get all the bolts. Remember, these are left-hand thread bolts. The MFactory is now ready to install.

    14. You have to put the new bearing races in the differential carrier since the MFactory has new bearings on it. The bearings you buy from MFactory have the new races in the box with them, so make sure you get them back from the shop if you had them press the bearings on. I used a punch from the outside of the tranny (through the axle hole) to knock the old race out. I then put the new race in with the hard plastic handle of a pry bar. I used the handle like a hammer and just tapped around the outside of the race until it was all the way in. Patience is key here, don't try to knock one side all the way in at a time, work your way around. In the picture below you can see a notch in the case for a punch to fit and you can see my punch in the notch.


    14a. Take this opportunity to clean the old RTV off both mating surfaces of the case and the pan. I used a razor (be careful not to dig into the surface) and some acetone to clean it up nice and shiny like.

    15. Put the MFactory back in the same way you took the old one out. Just have a helper (if you have one) pull the output shaft (the one closest to the diff) up an inch or so and put the ring gear under the output shaft and drop the bearing into the case. I had to put a finger in from the axle hole on the case and pull the LSD down into the bearing race.


    16. Now we have to prepare to install the other half of the case. Make sure the tranny is in neutral. One of the bolts you removed held the reverse idler up. Line the reverse idler up as shown in the picture so you can get the bolt back in once the case is on. I marked mine with paint to make it easier to see through the hole.


    16a. Mark the rail guide as shown in the picture below so you can see it through the bolt hole to make sure it is lined up. This is the one that had the longer bolt with the smooth tip.


    16b. The most trouble I had putting this one together was the two shift rods not lining up with the holes in the case. Make sure they are pushed together before you lower the case down. Just push them together by hand and leave them alone.


    16c. Put a 1/8" bead of RTV around the case mating surface and then lower the top of the case down. Guide it over the shift rods and then sit it on the dowels that help you line up the bolt holes. I had to tap on the case over the dowels a bit to push it on enough to get bolts in it. I'm pointing at a dowel in this picture:


    16d. Install and snug all of the bolts, take note of the two that hold the clips and the orientation of the rear mount. Once they are all snug, tighten them down to 38 ft-lbs.

    16e. Re-install both of the bolts that go through the case. I used a screwdriver to make sure the reverse idler was lined up. Put the reverse idler bolt back in and the rail guide bolt back in, make sure you have them lined up by looking for the paint marks through the hole. Then, re-install the ball and spring. Make sure you put the ball in first. You can also put your reverse switch back in at this point.

    17. Install the gear and spacer (on the right in the picture below) the very CAREFULLY install the gear and fork. Line up the hole in the fork with the hole in the shift rod and re-install the roll pin.


    17a. Thread the input and output shaft nuts on by hand then use the impact to tighten them down. Put the tranny in 5th gear. If you are using air, just a few hits of the trigger should get it tight enough. If you are using an electric impact, you'll have to hold the input shaft again to get the nut tight and then put an axle in the diff to get the output nut tight. After you get them both tight, stake the top of the nut down into the groove on the shafts. Don't hit them so hard that you crack them, just use the flat punch you likely used to remove the roll pin or a really dull screw-driver.

    17b. Put a 1/8" bead of RTV on the case and install the rear pan. Tighten the bolts down to 101 inch pounds (INCH POUNDS NOT FOOT POUNDS) or just snug them up which is all 101 in-lbs is anyway.

    You are done, basically. Make sure you can shift the transmission through all the gears and put this back in the car. Time for some sick burnouts.

    You cannot use ATF in this tranny now. You have to use a gear lube. I'm using Redline MT-90 in mine now. The capacity of this transmission is 3 and 1/5th quarts.

    I welcome Pay Pal donations at: bak_6965@yahoo.com
    Last edited by ZX2Fast; 09-01-2013 at 09:43 AM.

  2. #2

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    Default

    Very nice write up.
    00, mtx, b&m shortshifter, sparco boot and knob,zxtuner header,2.5 in borla exhaust,sr drop, knock mod,K&n intake,zxtuner adj cam gears,vct delete,full ac delete,lxq2 superchipped,es motor mounts. turbo soon!-TOTALLED!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by kurtcrosbie View Post
    I figure since the noise is affected by the ac being switched on and off, it must be the ac clutch or pulley. Is that not a good assumption? How would I determine which pulley it is if all of them spin normal?

    Sent from my SCH-I800 using Tapatalk
    Quote Originally Posted by dareall View Post
    you have a lot of miles on your car. Plus your car is over 13 years old. Realistically you are probably due for the clutch replacement on your compressor.

    Sent from my laptop with me typing all my own shit

  3. #3

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    Nice!!!


    -d

  4. #4

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    N i c e ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !

  5. #5

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    i wantz lsd... stoopid 200+ inches of snow a year broked me original trannie
    I need another S/R, taking donations

  6. #6

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    Put this in sideways!! Ouch! - Beodude123 thanks - outkastrooster mmmmm sausage!!!! lol - Zach :( sorry to hear that you no longer can get it up on your own. We are praying for ya - Zach 
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    Quote Originally Posted by only S/R View Post
    i wantz lsd... stoopid 200+ inches of snow a year broked me original trannie
    plus some trademark bad driving by you lol

    2000 Yellow S/R- , FZ racing header,Full ES kit, tinted tails, pnp intake mani, pnp tb, Focus armrest, 03 Radio dash kit, LED swap in gauges, Recessbilly's Yellow stitched ebrake boot and shift boot, Zxtuner CF hood, CF cowl, Progress STB, Fez PC'ed 98 vc with SPC, ES mounts, Mfactory LSD, sedan 5th gear, Fidanza LW Flywheel,R1 Cross drilled and slotted rotors, PC'ed Front and rear hubs, PC'ed Front and rear calipers, PC'ed trans mount, Cougar door switch conversion, Rota 16" grids, corksport shifter bearings

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