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Thread: Gude Header Review

  1. #1

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    Default Gude Header Review

    **Installed Pics Post 7, Uninstalled Post 31**

    Since not really much is posted, I thought I'd share this in order to expand knowledge.

    I've owned 2 Gude headers, and they're really nice pieces, tig welded with long primaries that don't end until under the motor and a 2.5" collector for excellent high-rpm flow. One I got was beat to shit and the other had never been used, so like-new. Most of the Gudes seem to place the upstream o2 sensor on the #1 primary, as my used one did, but the other had both o2's down behind the collector. While this makes it further from the engine, I like it because it more accurately analyzes gasses from the entire motor rather than a quarter of it.

    Due to the Gude being of 1-piece design unlike all(?) other long headers for the Z it's a little more cumbersome to work with. You have to take out the front to back crossmember and motor mount, and I believe I loosened and pushed the a/c compressor out of the way and worked the header in from the bottom. I recommend having someone handy to get a bolt or 2 started up top while you hold it in place from below. I took the dipstick tube out prior to installation and replaced it after. It fit with zero problems. Once in it fit like a glove on the motor, better than the Kami or ZXTuner in my opinion. I cut off the old support part that the cat bolts to under the motor, leaving it as only a plate to cover up the window to the back of the flywheel. Not necessary, but more of a while I was at it type of thing. It fit without that modification for those without power tools.

    The flange is thicker than most if not all other headers, being a full 1/2" thick rather than the more common 3/8", something to remember if you aren't using studs, but shouldn't make much difference. Since the lead o2 was moved, you have to make the wires meet it. I separated that plug from the harness back to the front of the fender, and used a 24" o2 extension with to plug it in. I hooked up the old secondary sensor as the new primary, given it is identical to the primary with only longer wiring, and routed the extension with the power steering lines and coolant overflow one. The second o2 can be deleted with a tune or cheater sensor, but otherwise will throw a code in most cases.

    A drawback of the Gude is that it doesn't fit the stock location of the catback. I mated it to a trubendz, and had a local shop that can work in stainless fix it to work for me. That ran me about $100, but was worth it. The flanges actually touched, but the trubendz flange runs the stock angle and the Gude one was at a regular 90-degree angle and ended at the small heatshield under the steering rack. I was able to drive it to the exhaust shop, with an insane amount of noise.

    After playing with the car post-install it's definitely worth it. ONE WORD OF CAUTION: THIS HEADER IS LOW. Therefore I don't recommend it for extremely low cars(clears throat) as it will hang lower than anything else in the engine bay. Other than that it pulls awesomely up top with a tune and definitely doesn't sacrifice low end power when compared to stock. It sits far back from the fans so it's not gonna melt those, and really doesn't take up any more space than the stock system up front.

    Last edited by mellowness65; 10-31-2013 at 09:12 AM.
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  2. #2

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    Great review.....thanks.

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    Additionally I should say that with the header, a 2.5" exhaust, and vit tune on a stock s/r it dyno'd at 129/119 iirc. Pics and dyno graphs will be up eventually

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    Thanks for sharing Mellow. I was really looking into the Gude header first. That $450+ price tag drew me off though.


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    16 random pics will be posted when i get a chance to upload

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    I also really liked this header, and I had it on my ATX 03. Made a HUGE difference. Used ones often have a dent where the lowest part is lol.

    Also, I don't recall moving the AC compressor when Brad and I installed mine. It was definitely a hassle though.

    Also I might be mistaken, but the Gude header has the LEAST amount of rasp. Kami is a nice header but still is very raspy.
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    in no particular order
















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    nice! missing a nut on one of those studs?
    Quote Originally Posted by zxtwou2 View Post
    Making bigger pipe as the exhaust flowd and cools makes eddy currents ehich is what mskes rasp.

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    Looks good Mellow. Gonna get some vids of it too?

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    my tie bar hangs lower than that lol

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    If you have a Kami vs Gude dyno please post. If Gude is noticably better then Kami I will switch.
    Quote Originally Posted by david gettle View Post
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    we can do a vid. i won't be doing a dyno vs. dyno, no plans to purchase/run a Kami when I've got this beast
    ps note the color change at the collector LOL

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mimino View Post
    nice! missing a nut on one of those studs?
    It'll be fixed with a new set of studs and nuts as soon as I know which size to get so that they'll fit perfectly... but ARP has been dragging its feet. We'll put some pics up again once it has its new set of studs.

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    AND... once I get the dyno sheet emailed to me from the shop, I'll post that up here as well. If it doesn't come in the next few days, I can scan the hardcopy of the dyno graph and post that up... I just didn't think it would look as good as a purely digital copy.

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    Loved my Gude header.... way back in 2003.

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