I'm looking to replace the factory speakers on my zx2, because im getting some subwoofers, and i need some speakers that will handle the new head unit im getting so my subwoofers will get the maximum power and so my speakers wont distort.
Everything you need to know down below:
Here is my whole setup excluding the speakers because I have not decided yet!
Im getting two subwoofers, and harness and wiring Im getting from dareall
The head unit is not decided either...
Also, will I have to get another amp just for the speakers?
What will I do with the amplifier under the drivers seat that came with the zx2?
Last edited by zx2Laser; 10-16-2011 at 10:32 AM.
I love my infinity 6.5" in the doors they are 2ohm speakers so they inherently draw more power and they sound great, plus the tweeter is selectable from normal to +4 dbs which is nice. My rears are pioneer 6x8's n have nothing to complain about em. My subs are Pioneer TSW309D4 and i absolutely love em. A lot of ppl on here like alpine and i cant knock em but i tend to favor pioneer in the end. Also it wouldnt hurt to run to bestbuy and listen to theyre speaker wall and find ur personal preferance, bc what spunds good to one person may not sound good to you. BTW ur not planning on running ur sub right off the HU, cus ull def need a dedicated amp for a sub.
i liked my alpines.
Really, the best thing you can do it try out as many speakers as you can and find what you like the sound of. Sound has alot to do with personal preference. What one person says sounds awesome may sound like crap to another. I have Polk Audio DXi 650s in the front of my Escort and they are nice but sound a bit too bright for my taste. That's what I get for buying speakers without hearing them first. I did hear a pair of $160 JL EVO C2's that were awesome but there was no way that they were going to fit.
Amp the aftermarket speakers. The aftermarket head unit internal amp is used to amp up the stock speakers which makes them sound tons better than with the stock radio, but running aftermarket speakers on an aftermarket head unit with no amp underpowers the speakers. I ran without an amp for awhile and never really liked how they sounded. Finally got around to amping them and they definitely have a different sound to them and they don't distort at higher volume. Don't go with cheap stuff either if you want it to sound good.
As for the subs, definitely need an amp for those.
-'03 ZX2 MTX Twilight Blue, Progress Springs, S/R Struts, 17" Konig Kolors Gunmetal, EGT Rear Discs, STB, 19mm RSB, LXQ1, Iceman Intake, Esslinger UDP, TWM Short Shifter, S/R Shift Knob, MX3 Seats, 35%/20% Tint, Pioneer DEH-9400BH, Polk Audio 6.5", PowerBass Amp, Rockford Fosgate 10", RE Audio Amp, DDM HIDs, Projector Headlights, LED Conversion
Infinity FTW, I have had my 6050w's for 3 years now, amping is crucial when running component's. Make sure you take the time to upgrade your speaker wiring, and do yourself a favor and dynomat your inner door panels while you have everything apart. 1 of the most important things to remember when you amp your speakers is to KEEP THE GAIN DOWN! More gain is NOT more power, especially if your running high voltage pre-outs. Turn your deck up to %75 volume, and slowly turn the gain up on your amp till you hear distortion, then dial the gain back a little bit
Yes well of course im getting an amp for the subwoofers, im getting a 1500 Watt amp for my subwoofers that put out 600w each and im getting dual, so that would be 1200 Watts going to my amp, im getting the 1500 just so i could have it in the future for anything, LOL,
But, since i have premium audio, and there is an amp under the driver seat, will I have to disconnect that? If i get other speakers i will need to get a different amp for this speakers correct? What would i do with the one under the drivers seat that came with the premium audio..
I didn't know that this would get that much attention, but the question above asks mostly all.
I wired up my aftermarket deck to use the stock amp and hae it running my 6x9 in the rear. Betwen the deck amp and stock amp they work good. won't win any competitions but takes care of my 36mile drive every day.
as for your 1500wat amp I always slightly undersized my amp so that I won't blow any speakers in your case I would buy a 1000wt amp and not pop my woffers.
I got a box with 12 in it for cheap if your local
Mods: Knock Mod, 02 motor swap, P&P TB, F1 Racing Stage 1 clutch, 2.25 SS cat back w/ 18" resonator no muffler, power window and lock conversion, Massive 9mm wires, Optima, EV6 injectors, tinted tails, Blue Iceman w/k&n cold air intake, enslinger UDP, red eibach springs & FR struts, 19mm RSB w/ ES bushings, mech mod, blacked out tails, 5th gear swap, Synchro mesh trans fluid, LEDed & Recolored SR dash cluster, 6 wire conversion, LXQ1, CHARCOAL ARM REST, ES Lower Mounts
Waiting for install: Painted valve cover, tractor trailer air horn, P&Ped intake.
Are those numbers max or RMS power? You want to base your selection on RMS output rather than max. Don't run the factory premium headunit, its junk. Replace it and bypass the factory amp.
Infinity or Diamond Audio
Old: 2003 ATX ZX2 - Roush style intake, Gude header, Trubendz 2.5in exhaust, Eibach springs and Tokico struts, 21mm swaybar, powder under drive pulley, Focus alternator overdrive pulley, HKS Circle Earth Grounding Kit, leather racing seats, Pioneer AVIC N1 and speakers all around, and S/R gauge cluster.
Current: 2006 Chrysler 300C SRT8 - Hankook EVO V12 245/45/20 and 255/45/20, Weathertech Floormats, Grip Tuning Grill, Clear Side Markers.
1990 Honda CRX - D15 VTEC OBD1, Skunk 2 springs, VIS carbon fiber hood, Si transmission.
Its RMS, its not the peak, also, im getting a new headunit, Im buying a harness from dareall so I dont have to do all that and I dont ruin the wires so eventually i can hook the factory back up.
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