Heat it from the underside so you don't set the rubber on fire. I know you are replacing it so who cares if it burns, but the fumes is what you want to avoid. If the boot isn't already torn, I suggest you cut it so if it does get hot, the grease won't explode out and burn you, don't ask me how I know that.
Propane works okay, but if you can find it, MAPP gas gets hotter and works better. Try turning the bolt after you heat it and before you hammer on it.
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Hot damn it worked! Picked up this little guy http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardw...atalogId=10053 heated the threaded side for 30 seconds then grabbed onto it with a pair of channel lock pliers and twisted, didn't budge, hit it with a hammer, still nothing.
Heated again for about a minute till I saw a small wisp of smoke and twisted it again, this time is moved just a tiny bit. Worked it back and forth till it was twisting freely. Hit it with a hammer and out came the bolt. 'Bout jumped through the roof!
When I was torquing down the new bolt and nut after threading the nut on by hand the threads decided to flatten out completely and it was a pain getting the nut off. Lots of twisting and working the bolt and nut simultaneously to get a bite onto whatever thread was left. Luckily the original bolt and nut from the passenger side I took out few days ago were still in good shape so I cleaned those up and reused them.
it's all about leverage, need longer breaker bar. probably one that you need to measure with a calendar.
If you use heat, be careful of the cv boot... I ended up having to replace one...
And get your car up high enough so you dont have to tip the torch over so much, otherwise itll keep flaring up on yah, like it did with me. I need a better jack....
Great vid
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