you guys on asked for some pics for my turbo set-up, here is my "top mount Z"

[mullman2002]

can you post more pics from a closer/top down angle? Interested to see the routing behind the radiator.

[CJW]

I'm going for 200-220 and will be running either 2.25 hot 2.5 cold or 2.5 throughout. I haven't decided.

Focus guys do really well with 2.5 hot 3 cold. The nasty focii have 3 hot 3.5 cold. :drool:

[Awakeatground0]

i know what ya mean, dunno what to do tho, i have a 4 inch maf, and was wondering if you know how bad the turbulence would be going from 2.5 to 4", im a bit worried bout that, but i did just purchase a faster spooling turbo (.43) hoping it would compensate a bit for that. anyways any ideas about the turbulence issue?

[Awakeatground0]

i will try to get some pics for ya, i need my bros smart phone, unless i can find my digital camera, and if it still works for that matter.

can you post more pics from a closer/top down angle? Interested to see the routing behind the radiator.

[Awakeatground0]

ive gone through, i think this is my 5th maf sensor now, im hopin im done buying mafs for a while

[inis]

I run 2.5 throughout, which is nearly the same size TB I run.

[Awakeatground0]

forgot to mention that what you see in the picture is 8 inches of the 3.5, the maf is 4 inches, and from there to TB is 2.75 inches. what you dont see is from the turbo to the larger section i'm only running 2" diameter charge tubing

[CJW]

I would beat my friend if he ever did that in a build to be honest though. So +1 on creativity. But I would have had no part of that. No part of that screams performance, it screams I made a turbo kit for 600 bucks(or less)

I'm really surprised no one has gone bonkers on you yet. I don't care, cuz it's your car though. Just saying.

[Awakeatground0]

lol, the nice thing is that its not necessarily permanent, i have a bunch of replacement parts to be installed sitting in my garage right now, most everything is going to be redone, i figured i had to start somewhere, and im still learning alot about FI, and before this project, i never really fabbed anything, plus i was racing against the clock, didnt have alot of money, and this is my daily driver and erie pa gets winters that are unforgiving on vehicles, etc. etc., lemme clean it up a bit, figure out what to do with the intake, and ill take some more pics,

Unless you wanna buy it from me now CJW, $8,000.01, no negotiations, KBB value: $8,001.01

lol, just teasin ya man

I would beat my friend if he ever did that in a build to be honest though. So +1 on creativity. But I would have had no part of that. No part of that screams performance, it screams I made a turbo kit for 600 bucks(or less)

I'm really surprised no one has gone bonkers on you yet. I don't care, cuz it's your car though. Just saying.

[Spectre1130]

I built a tubular T3 turbo manifold if you want it. It would be better than that uber turbo lag set-up you have.

And like everyone else has said, change your charge piping size. I build twin turbo kits for Corvettes and I only use 2.5 inch piping for each .60 A/R turbo charger, and then 3.5 inch going to TB. And they make alot more power and use more boost. (Last one made 880 rwhp at elev. running 16 psi)

Props to you on the unique-ness of the setup, but all the hard angles and the length in your exhaust before the turbo is going to increase your spool time. That's the only problem with kits like that. I think Gude does one similar but I would never use a turbo kit like that unless I preferred pretties over ponies.

Like I said it looks cool and points to the unique-ness. But your poor turbo probably doesn't even spool until 4k RPM's. My advice is:

(This is just my advice, not words spoken from Jesus or God)
1) Shrink your charge piping to 2.5 inch all the way, so you don't have this changing of sizes.
2) Sell your huge ass MAF and buy a factory one.
3) Re-weld the exhaust with a smoother curve in it, because if you are using the factory flange on your factory manifold, that means it goes down and then does a 180 and comes back up. Instead take it from the exhaust ports and curve it down a tiny bit and then curve it back up to the turbo. So it would look like a smooth lazy curve. And learn to TIG weld to. It will be much easier for parts like that.
4) If you do get a new TB, don't get one much bigger than 2.5 inches.

Here's my manifold if you want to buy it and not have to make your own. I know it fits on the engine with a .65 A/R T3 turbo, without hitting the PCV or anything. I don't know about how well it fits with a factory radiator, I moved my radiator and use a smaller one. But why run one the huge OEM one when you can run a full aluminum civic radiator and lose a few pounds.

This manifold plus this turbo: http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...gory_Code=T3T4
IMG_1915.jpg

[ZX2Fast]

Putting the turbo there isn't just for looks. You get to keep the stock cooling system (overkill but that isn't a bad thing), you get to keep the battery in the stock location, and you don't have to worry about fitment issues with the a/c, PCV, or clutch slave cylinder.

Your spool time won't be reduced that much. I helped Larry put a kit like this on his ZX2 and with the Super 60 it spooled around 2300 rpm. A ball bearing turbo would spool faster and you could wrap your pipes to keep the heat in for even faster spools. There are plenty of high power cars running STS set-ups (rear mount turbo) that don't take forever to spool so don't let that be the reason you abandon this location for the turbo.

[Alwayssideways]

Like I said and what Zx2fast said above. For a daily driver and if I were to go turbo again I would go with this setup. There really arent too many cons when it comes right down to it. For me the only one I see is the increase of exhaust pipes. But this is only slightly more than using a log style or ram horn. But you can use more of the stock equipment and slightly less to worry about( no relocating rad or fan, pcv) (also I think it puts the turbo in a better position to utilize the windage tray for the oil return.

As for "lag" With turbo technology now. The lag presented by having the turbo further away is so minimal that you would not even notice.

I just think back to trying to work on my turbo/manifold/exhaust mounted right infront of the rad support. It was so tight and annoying. This opens up the work area and makes maintenance so much easier.

my $.02

[Spectre1130]

Wow, that is some good spool time. I didn't know you could get that out of that set-up. But you may still want to re-engineer the way that exhaust pipes to the turbo, not just the welds.

And on the spool time is that fully spooled? J/w. With my setup of the focus headers and the small subie turbo, I can spool to like 2 lbs at 1200 RPM and hit full 10 lbs at 2800 RPM.

Rear mount kits though I think are pretty worthless. I know STS makes wonderful kits for vettes and v8's but I have seen front mounted make more power usually. Just my opinion, the owner of my shop is pretty much against rear mounted turbos so I may just be biased. But this should give you a hard-on.
SANY0418.jpgSANY0417.jpg

I guess I haven't run into the problems with fitment, because I moved alot of my things around before the turbo kit. I cut out all my radiator support and rebuilt and such. This type of set-up had been my first idea, I was gonna take it off of Gude's idea, but I decided to go with the turbo on header.

[Awakeatground0]

do you sell turbo stuff on ebay?, sorry man, i already have a new header with the pipe fabbed and everything, dont worry, im a much better flux welder now, still is nothing like tig welding, but its way better than what you see in the pic, i will try to get more pics up at the end of this weekend when i finish, hopefully

I built a tubular T3 turbo manifold if you want it. It would be better than that uber turbo lag set-up you have.

And like everyone else has said, change your charge piping size. I build twin turbo kits for Corvettes and I only use 2.5 inch piping for each .60 A/R turbo charger, and then 3.5 inch going to TB. And they make alot more power and use more boost. (Last one made 880 rwhp at elev. running 16 psi)

Props to you on the unique-ness of the setup, but all the hard angles and the length in your exhaust before the turbo is going to increase your spool time. That's the only problem with kits like that. I think Gude does one similar but I would never use a turbo kit like that unless I preferred pretties over ponies.

Like I said it looks cool and points to the unique-ness. But your poor turbo probably doesn't even spool until 4k RPM's. My advice is:

(This is just my advice, not words spoken from Jesus or God)
1) Shrink your charge piping to 2.5 inch all the way, so you don't have this changing of sizes.
2) Sell your huge ass MAF and buy a factory one.
3) Re-weld the exhaust with a smoother curve in it, because if you are using the factory flange on your factory manifold, that means it goes down and then does a 180 and comes back up. Instead take it from the exhaust ports and curve it down a tiny bit and then curve it back up to the turbo. So it would look like a smooth lazy curve. And learn to TIG weld to. It will be much easier for parts like that.
4) If you do get a new TB, don't get one much bigger than 2.5 inches.

Here's my manifold if you want to buy it and not have to make your own. I know it fits on the engine with a .65 A/R T3 turbo, without hitting the PCV or anything. I don't know about how well it fits with a factory radiator, I moved my radiator and use a smaller one. But why run one the huge OEM one when you can run a full aluminum civic radiator and lose a few pounds.

This manifold plus this turbo: http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...gory_Code=T3T4
IMG_1915.jpg

[Awakeatground0]

i appreciate all of the advice, really good points made here, i should have everything done by the end of this weekend, i am pretty much redoing alot of stuff, only things i might not get done is putting the rims on(unless i finish early and have time, we'll see) and putting the catch cans in. other than that, ive already fabbed the new exhaust pipe-to-turbo with header, and painted the valve cover and put new taylor plug wires in. this weekend, new turbo, downpipe, oil lines, water lines, and oil pan, if i get time i will take some pics and post them, the downpipe may hold me up a bit since i cant fab that until i put the new turbo on, we will see, plus i gotta paint the exhaust and its still a bit cold, can't start workin til the kids go to bed, dunno, ill pull it off somehow