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Thread: KL V6 Project (takeover)

  1. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by ChillinZX View Post
    The other is the huge vacuum going to a bolt, obviously this is meant to go somewhere.
    since this engine is using the KLG4 intake, that hose looks like it connects to the brake booster. you could likely connect this to your booster, but you would need to extend the hose a bit.

    Quote Originally Posted by ChillinZX View Post
    I also pulled the valve cover to discover KL01 cams (which are not the high lift cams) but that should still be ok. There have been talks that some of these motors have the flat top pistons 10:1 but these cams would deliver the power earlier in the powerband vs the KL31 cams. The danger in guessing what pistons these have could ruin my n/a or turbo build, which as of right now I have no definate plans for either.
    this means exactly what i told you in the other thread: this is NOT a true KLZE [and is likely a millenia engine, especially with that intake manifold] as only the true ZE came with the 10:1 pistons. the KL01 cams will give you better low end torque vs. the ZE cams. the tradeoff between the DE and ZE engines is the ZE having a better powerband; unfortunately, it's higher in the rpm range and it's at the expensive of low end torque.

    if you want to be sure and are planning on rebuilding the engine [to a point] anyway, pull the heads and check the pistons. you'll know for sure that way. i would still check the heads themselves for the proper casting marks. KL31-101 and K31-1A1 are ZE heads. you can always check out ebay or my site for a set of ZE cams. i see them for sale all the time.

    Quote Originally Posted by ChillinZX View Post
    So according to this link this vehicle needs a MAF unit instead of a VAF. Based off what I discovered about the cams. This may or may not solve the air/fuel issues. And the computer is a VAF spec computer. So I'll leave it alone for now.
    http://www.oocities.org/viv95pgt/klze.html

    Ok, that large vacuum hose goes to RH drive brake boosters, so I will either tee it to the LH booster line or cap it instead of a long hose to a bolt. Since the vris points are screwed up I'm going to zip tie them open until I get the megasquirt unit from Stratified Electronics, doing this will at least provide a steady power curve, minus the fuel problems from the american spec probe computer.
    that link you quoted is ancient. i remember seeing it when i first bought my probe and was toying with the idea of swapping the engine out back in 1998. i wound up swapping the stock DE for the ZE anyway a few years later. the VRIS points will be out of whack because it's depending on the ECU to know when to open up the vacuum reservoirs. i really don't know where you're looking for ZE information, or even MS info, but you really should check out my site. we have a MS vendor that posts regularly in their support forum [DIYAutoTune].

    Quote Originally Posted by CT9A View Post
    You have to match the airflow meter to the pcm. If you use a maf you will have to use The millenia maf pcm, or megasquirt. The car has a vaf because its running on a vaf pcm. The easiest setup that should allow the engine to work to its potential would be a kl31/36 pcm and the je50 vaf. If you run a maf with megasquirt I would either use a larger ford maf, or a gm 3in maf. The kl mafs are fairly small and restrictive.
    the KL MAF from the millenia will work fine. what he should do is concentrate on getting an MS unit and tuning the car using that. megasquirt is your friend here.

    Quote Originally Posted by FEZX2 View Post
    Its suposed to be vaf if it had a coil pack then it should have maf. Also lookin into the hei mod the coil in the disty tends to fail

    Also looks like the vris isnt hooked up righy or at all.
    the rule of thumb here is that the KL engine used a VAF up until 1998 or so. from there until both the 626 and milennia stopped production, the engine had a coilpack and MAF.

    since he's looking at using megasquirt, i wouldn't bother with a distributor at all and just go ahead with using a coilpack. there are plenty of guys on probetalk who have done this with their cars.

    another option is to use the KLZE distributor. the ZE disty uses an external coil, which means you won't have to deal with the internal ignitor failing. btw, that particular failure is limited to the 93-94 model years. 95-97 had a different distributor, which eliminated the problem. i have a picture of the ZE disty pinout floating around here somewhere. if i find it, i will post it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dmark101 View Post
    since this engine is using the KLG4 intake, that hose looks like it connects to the brake booster. you could likely connect this to your booster, but you would need to extend the hose a bit.



    this means exactly what i told you in the other thread: this is NOT a true KLZE [and is likely a millenia engine, especially with that intake manifold] as only the true ZE came with the 10:1 pistons. the KL01 cams will give you better low end torque vs. the ZE cams. the tradeoff between the DE and ZE engines is the ZE having a better powerband; unfortunately, it's higher in the rpm range and it's at the expensive of low end torque.

    if you want to be sure and are planning on rebuilding the engine [to a point] anyway, pull the heads and check the pistons. you'll know for sure that way. i would still check the heads themselves for the proper casting marks. KL31-101 and K31-1A1 are ZE heads. you can always check out ebay or my site for a set of ZE cams. i see them for sale all the time.



    that link you quoted is ancient. i remember seeing it when i first bought my probe and was toying with the idea of swapping the engine out back in 1998. i wound up swapping the stock DE for the ZE anyway a few years later. the VRIS points will be out of whack because it's depending on the ECU to know when to open up the vacuum reservoirs. i really don't know where you're looking for ZE information, or even MS info, but you really should check out my site. we have a MS vendor that posts regularly in their support forum [DIYAutoTune].



    the KL MAF from the millenia will work fine. what he should do is concentrate on getting an MS unit and tuning the car using that. megasquirt is your friend here.



    the rule of thumb here is that the KL engine used a VAF up until 1998 or so. from there until both the 626 and milennia stopped production, the engine had a coilpack and MAF.

    since he's looking at using megasquirt, i wouldn't bother with a distributor at all and just go ahead with using a coilpack. there are plenty of guys on probetalk who have done this with their cars.

    another option is to use the KLZE distributor. the ZE disty uses an external coil, which means you won't have to deal with the internal ignitor failing. btw, that particular failure is limited to the 93-94 model years. 95-97 had a different distributor, which eliminated the problem. i have a picture of the ZE disty pinout floating around here somewhere. if i find it, i will post it.
    All correct info. what site are you hinting about never said a name I don't belive..
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    Quote Originally Posted by FEZX2 View Post
    All correct info. what site are you hinting about never said a name I don't belive..
    my site is probetalk.com and i think i mentioned it at least once in the post you quoted. i am the site owner and administrator. as dareall is to ZX2's, i am to the probe.

    chillin is already registered there and has started asking questions.

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    please please please tell me this car is coming to the meet!

    JE Pistons, Eagle Rods, heat treated crank, john p ported head, on my fifth transmission (MFactory LSD), 12.5" Wilwood Brakes, Roush/Turbonetics turbo, 17x7.5 Volk TE-37's, 60lb seimens injectors, deatschwerks 300m fuel pump, 38mm Tial Wastegate, 6 puck clutch, megasquirt 3, Ground Control coilovers, wings west lip kit, and not enough time to work on it.

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    Not for at least 2 years. I gotta lot of work to do, but money will do most of that work The only time consuming part now is getting the money. It's always about money. So give it time, it will be fixed and run right. I got nothing but time with this thing.

    As far as the alignment goes, this thing is way off, something happened since you've (weeyums) owned it. And this alleged chip in the probe computer, I doubt that ever happened too?

    Thanks dmark for all that info, the heads are stamped kl31-101 and 1h1, and I don't think thats the klg4 IM, wasn't that a short straight neck? My next step is checking compression (above 190psi I hope) and then check a piston with a flash light or with the more expensive flashlight/camera a guy I work with has if that doesn't work out. No point in ripping the head off to check what piston it has, if it's the 9.2:1 I'll just turbo it since it already has the kl01 cams, if it's the 10:1 I'll shoot for over 200whp NA with Colt race spec regrind and DE valvetrain or Ferrea valvetrain (depending on money issues at that time). In either case I will be switching to E85 to obtain my goals a little easier then 93oct can. This sounds like a good plan for me, although none of this will happen until the 2nd year of building. Next year is getting custom gauges from Dakota Digital and Stratifed MS system. This year is all drivability shit.
    Quote Originally Posted by david gettle View Post
    I had a claim last year because I hit a frozen pile of manure
    2000 ZX2 w/ '95 Mazda Millenia KL V6 swap, '00 Mazda Miata rear brakes, MegaSquirtPNP (with VAF delete/IAT mod, and AEM Wideband w/ Bosch 4.9 sensor) '00 626 MTX w/ platemod and Mfactory diff, custom DSS 500hp axles, AWR solid trans mounts, trans brace delete mod (for turbo kit provision) , KLG4 IM, MX3 GS brake booster/master combo, ebay headers, ebay CAI system, Ford Racing ZX2 inverted coilovers, Cusco camber plates all around, custom made traction bars mounted to frame rails, body kit, 2 tone paint, etc...

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    Ok, the verdict is in. With 160-170psi in the cylinders I have the 170HP KLZE. This is not the 200HP KLZE as I suspected. 9.2:1 compression, nothing fancy about this motor other then square ports. I knew my grey zx2 was faster then this and I was right, the short gearing in this car is what was throwing everyone off about how fast it was. I would expect this car to put down the same whp as my old zx2, but I do expect the wtq to be a little bit higher (based off its current state).

    This doesn't change anything, this isn't considered being ripped off. All it means is that I will go turbocharged.

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    Keep up the good work chillin and keep up posted. This is cool.

  8. #23

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    The bolt should go to the intake after the MAF, I have a bolt in mine too because I don't have a bung in my custom intake yet(3 years later).
    I have a zx2
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    97+ kl's with VAF can switch to MAF IIRC, dmark might have already covered that. You will need the supporting ECU tho

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    Quote Originally Posted by ChillinZX View Post
    All it means is that I will go turbocharged.
    thad be sick!

    Names Will. 01 MTX.all the bolt-ons, daily driver.
    Black 2000 s/r # 1 of 500. The turbo project

  11. #26

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    Not really, 300whp is probably the most I'll get before I start breaking rods. Zetec's can do 300whp easy, and cheaper. If I build the motor up then 500whp would be a nice goal.

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    At 300whp you better have some good tires and a lsd haha.

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    I'm definately taking the trans out, getting it rebuilt (whatever needs replacement) adding MFactory, and getting the final ratio changed to something more reasonable like 3.80ish-4.10ish. That will be next year.

    I just worked today on getting the HEI module relocated and have it's own separate ground instead of sharing the same ground with the factory ignition. The original location was directly above the distributor/valve cover, that area is hot so I moved it to the front upper core support. Sharing a ground with something that it wasn't designed for is a bad idea as well, it is very possible it was causing interference with the tach, so I moved that ground as well. So far the tach has not acted up and I will be testing it all week. Here is a pic.

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    carbonzx2 is offline My car maybe ATX, but atleast its turbo

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    subscribed. ive been waiting for YEARS to see someone get this thing back up and running
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    Um, I am surprised that no one has told this dumbfuck that adding downforce to the rear of a front wheel drive car is pretty fucking stupid.

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    Please tell me you are going to paint it.
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