KLZE Project (takeover)

[ChillinZX]

So we left off with WeeYums worklog, and re-wiring from ZX2Fast.

Alignment still had not been done for 3-4 years, you had to hold the steering wheel to the right (about 70 degrees) in order to drive straight. If I let go the car will shoot to the left. Any tire that is put on the front is almost immediatly chewed up from the negative camber and major toe-out from the drivers front tire. How someone can enjoy this for 4 years is beyond me. So I will dremmel the top holes of the bottom strut bracket so I can at least pull on the tire to get positive camber out of it, to make it close to 0 degrees. Slightly negative would be ideal. I am aware that the mx-3 lower arms are 1/2" longer, so the wheels will end up sticking out 1/2" more then normal. Fender flaring may be neccessary. Then the toe will be adjusted after the camber is fixed. I will not worry about getting it perfect just yet, I will get a manual rack to throw in there then I will perfect it.

The engine idles high, and seems to overheat based off the hellish blast of invisible flame coming out the vents from the heater core when I turn the heat on to try and help cool the engine down. The temp gauge doesn't work but I'll get to instrument cluster problems later. I see a vacuum line going to a bolt where it should go into a vacuum chamber shared by the VRIS solenoids, I see another vacuum line sticking out with nothing attached to it under the throttle body, so far I can't seem to find where that goes, but it needs to be closed off for now. Fuel pump seems to overwork itself and randomly shut off, I may upgrade the pump to something that would be overkill and handle the fuel load with ease. And I don't know why (money problems maybe?) someone couldn't try a different radiator to use other then reversing the zx2 one around. I'm surprised the u-bend hose on the passenger side isn't melting the bumper. I will go through a bunch of radiators (pictures for now) that I feel are worth trying that would better fit in the current spot and not look as ghetto as it is now.

Neons, really? Are we 16? No we are not, thats going in the garbage. I also see a bunch of disconnected wires, thats all going in the trash as well.

Those will be my current goals this year. There are still more problems with the car that I will tackle next year. Right now my focus is getting my '82 GS1100 perfect.

[dareall]

So we left off with WeeYums worklog, and re-wiring from ZX2Fast.

Alignment still had not been done for 3-4 years, you had to hold the steering wheel to the right (about 70 degrees) in order to drive straight. If I let go the car will shoot to the left. Any tire that is put on the front is almost immediatly chewed up from the negative camber and major toe-out from the drivers front tire. How someone can enjoy this for 4 years is beyond me. So I will dremmel the top holes of the bottom strut bracket so I can at least pull on the tire to get positive camber out of it, to make it close to 0 degrees. Slightly negative would be ideal. I am aware that the mx-3 lower arms are 1/2" longer, so the wheels will end up sticking out 1/2" more then normal. Fender flaring may be neccessary. Then the toe will be adjusted after the camber is fixed. I will not worry about getting it perfect just yet, I will get a manual rack to throw in there then I will perfect it.

The engine idles high, and seems to overheat based off the hellish blast of invisible flame coming out the vents from the heater core when I turn the heat on to try and help cool the engine down. The temp gauge doesn't work but I'll get to instrument cluster problems later. I see a vacuum line going to a bolt where it should go into a vacuum chamber shared by the VRIS solenoids, I see another vacuum line sticking out with nothing attached to it under the throttle body, so far I can't seem to find where that goes, but it needs to be closed off for now. Fuel pump seems to overwork itself and randomly shut off, I may upgrade the pump to something that would be overkill and handle the fuel load with ease. And I don't know why (money problems maybe?) someone couldn't try a different radiator to use other then reversing the zx2 one around. I'm surprised the u-bend hose on the passenger side isn't melting the bumper. I will go through a bunch of radiators (pictures for now) that I feel are worth trying that would better fit in the current spot and not look as ghetto as it is now.

Neons, really? Are we 16? No we are not, thats going in the garbage. I also see a bunch of disconnected wires, thats all going in the trash as well.

Those will be my current goals this year. There are still more problems with the car that I will tackle next year. Right now my focus is getting my '82 GS1100 perfect.

yeah, yeah, yeah, now let's see some pictures as it sits right now as a baseline for comparison when you start fixing things

[5Speed]

X2 I would like to see what this car looks like as of now? How much did you pick it up for?

[ChillinZX]

I picked it up as a trade, the details on that topic is already on a different thread(s), so lets keep this thread clean. I'll take some shots tonight and post in couple hours. I do not have a digital camera other then my 2mp phone, so lightning will be the only issue.

[OGreaTFuzzY1]

i say use the mx-3 lower arms and just use fender flares. it would look good that way. you could try a Small Koyo Radiator or a Honda radiator and use a fast thin fan

this car deserves to b done right.

~Fuzzy

[will-zx2]

this thing is bad ass! glad its gettin some tlc

[ChillinZX]

Ok to start off the picture section, let me give you a tour of my garage.




Now, here is my dilemma. The radiator.


The other is the huge vacuum going to a bolt, obviously this is meant to go somewhere.


I also pulled the valve cover to discover KL01 cams (which are not the high lift cams) but that should still be ok. There have been talks that some of these motors have the flat top pistons 10:1 but these cams would deliver the power earlier in the powerband vs the KL31 cams. The danger in guessing what pistons these have could ruin my n/a or turbo build, which as of right now I have no definate plans for either.

[5Speed]

Nice Car, its a shame it was butchered with that swap. I'm sure you will set it right.

[ChillinZX]

So according to this link this vehicle needs a MAF unit instead of a VAF. Based off what I discovered about the cams. This may or may not solve the air/fuel issues. And the computer is a VAF spec computer. So I'll leave it alone for now.
http://www.oocities.org/viv95pgt/klze.html

Ok, that large vacuum hose goes to RH drive brake boosters, so I will either tee it to the LH booster line or cap it instead of a long hose to a bolt. Since the vris points are screwed up I'm going to zip tie them open until I get the megasquirt unit from Stratified Electronics, doing this will at least provide a steady power curve, minus the fuel problems from the american spec probe computer.

[ZX2Fast]

In the radiator fan wiring, I set-up a second set of wires in case anyone wanted to run two fans.

You could always try a 3-row Civic radiator from Mishimoto.

[CT9A]

You have to match the airflow meter to the pcm. If you use a maf you will have to use The millenia maf pcm, or megasquirt. The car has a vaf because its running on a vaf pcm. The easiest setup that should allow the engine to work to its potential would be a kl31/36 pcm and the je50 vaf. If you run a maf with megasquirt I would either use a larger ford maf, or a gm 3in maf. The kl mafs are fairly small and restrictive.

[dareall]

I would put door handles back on

[FEZX2]

Its suposed to be vaf if it had a coil pack then it should have maf. Also lookin into the hei mod the coil in the disty tends to fail

Also looks like the vris isnt hooked up righy or at all.

[ChillinZX]

I found the radiator I am going use. I will take some measurements when I get home, but since it will be custom mount, I don't see the problem.
http://www.mishimoto.com/mishimoto-m...-radiator.html

[MrWeeyums]

The alignment was fine. I drove it for 6 months after the swap and it always tracked straight. There should be a recipt for it in with the paperwork to show what the shop set everything to. The tie rod ends were replaced then too. There should be camber bolts in there too.
As far as the radiator goes, I searched the junkyard for something close in size with the outlets on the right sides but couldnt come up with anything. That was supposed to be a temporary fix until i could get a thick civic half radiator.
Let me know if I can help with any info. Its been a few years but ill try to remember the best I can.
~Ryan