First off I own a manual 99 ZX2 with 160,000 miles on it. As I was driving around today my engine died as I was getting ready to turn at an intersection. When I tried to restart it, it made a consistant crunchy sound. After pushing it out of the intersection into a gas station I was able to get a brother to help me tow it home. We took a closer look both seem to think it's the timing belt. I know it could be other things (like the starter) but I don't think so, this definitely sounds like it's turning the engine over but the engine is way out of sync. Now I've read online that the 2.0 Zetec engines are non-interference (thank the lord) but before I get too excited I wanted to confirm that with you pro's and also see if you have any advice as to replacing the timing belt. I've got the manual (just the one you get at autozone) for the Escorts but you guys may have some additional input. Anyways once again thanks in advance.
Buy the dvd on ebay. It is made by a member here and it is very informative for a gearhead that is new to the eccentricities of retiming a Zetec.
Testing the limits of factory internals. Now at 18 PSI, daily driven.
2000 ZX2 - Mods: Megasquirt 3 EFI with COP Sequential Spark, E85 Fueling, Innovate Wideband Controller, SVT Focus DSIM, Siemens Deka 80 Lb/Hr Injectors, 55W 6000K HIDs, Retrofitted Projectors, 21mm RSB, Garrett T3 60 Trim/.63AR Turbo, TiAL MV-S Wastegate, 28x10x3 FMIC, 2.5" Trubendz -w- Cat, 18" Resonator, and Magnaflow Muffler.
"I usually downshift when I'm near a Prius so they can hear me hurting the environment"
Have you repped someone helpful today?
Before you go and buy the parts to fix it, you will need to determine which version of timing kit your car takes. In 99 Ford had a transition mid-year. If you had the earlier version it will take 3 pulleys. If you have the newer version, it will have 2 pulleys. If you do happen to have the newer version, the timing kit will ususally come with 3 pulleys in the box. Don't install the 3rd pulley if your car did not originally have it The easiest way to determine would be to take the lower crank pulley off and the lower timing cover off. If the 3rd pulley is there, get the earlier version. If not there, get the newer version. These parts have to come off anyway, so do this before buying any parts so that you get the correct version the first time
Originally Posted by Danny Jackson-Percy
Dareall sale thread here (BEST THREAD EVER!!!)
Our race team swapped out our timing belt in 30 minutes at the track!
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Thank you a ton. After watching the video I'm debating weather or not to give this a go or take it in. My buddy has a mechanic who owns his own shop and said he may be able to get him to do it for under $50 if I buy the parts, so for the sake of hassle I may try that. If not I guess I'm getting dirty.
As for when my engine was built, May of 99. Where do you think that puts me as far as the earlier model or later one (pulley or no)?
Measure the idler pulley that is next to the tensioner for the timing belt. One year range has 60mm, other has 70mm. Much easier to see then checking for the lower pulley.
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