3500 idle?

[2002blgt]

really?



you seem like you know your stuff when it comes to typing. not so much when it comes to searching.

Sorry I did not search first , but 4 wire or 6 wire I am assuming its the MAF you guys are talking about , switching that would have no affect what so ever , the 2 extra wires are just for the IAT sensor which just means it has an integrated sensor , its doing the same thing as a separate 4 wire MAF and 2 wire IAT is doing , so swapping is completely unnecessary

[ZX2guy19]

Hey man,

Thanks, but we know.

They are not talking about the MAF. They are talking about the PCM/ECU.

Sincerely,
Brad

[EnergyBlue98]

i got the car half tuned, it runs and i can floor it to my new redline of 6700. but it still cuts off if i put it in neutral after anything about 4k rpm. the tuner said it was because i was throwing an engine code for my o2 sensor. I'm throwing a P0135 and a P1451. I have changed the o2 sensor with a brand new sensor erased the code, and it came right back :/

also, on a second note. the car is pouring out it's oil all over my engine bay. at first i thought it was the valve cover gasket, but i just changed that and it still poured oil all over. my next guess is that i notice the oil stick is out of the hole a little bit. is this because of too much pressure in the crank case that cannot be released quick enough through the stock pcv catch can? i have a catch can but i have not put it on the car yet. if i put it on would that fix my problem of the oil stick popping out of the hole?

[2002blgt]

They are talking about the MAF , but they should be actually posting ECU codes since the MAF actually does not have a thing to do with it , the 99.5 up ECU used a 6 wire MAF which has the integrated IAT sensor which has nothing to do with the car stalling , supposedly those PCMs did not have the stalling issues of the older PCMs from the searches I have done , IMO this should be a non issue but whatever floats your boat I guess , looks like someone would find the real issue instead of blaming the ECU

[The_underclassman]

Are you running a stock PCV valve? I think you need to use one with a 1-way check valve, such as the valve the SVO Mustangs used. They're available on focus.c-f-m.com for about $12. The reason I recommend this is because the stock pcv valve never sees positive pressure on an NA engine. Now that you've added pressure, the air can rush through the PCV hose and force air into the crankcase, thus blowing the dipstick out. Other ways around this involve venting the PCV to the ground and capping the nipple on the intake manifold, or using that port as a source for your BOV line.
Also, are you blow thru or suck thru?

[EnergyBlue98]

Im suck through, and my bov is coming from a small vacuum line on the mani, not the pcv. Is there anyway i can fix this without waiting for something to ship, i nee to drive 4 hours tomorrow :/

[ZX2guy19]

You said you have a catch can...use it! Lol

[Mimino]

i got the car half tuned, it runs and i can floor it to my new redline of 6700. but it still cuts off if i put it in neutral after anything about 4k rpm. the tuner said it was because i was throwing an engine code for my o2 sensor. I'm throwing a P0135 and a P1451. I have changed the o2 sensor with a brand new sensor erased the code, and it came right back :/

also, on a second note. the car is pouring out it's oil all over my engine bay. at first i thought it was the valve cover gasket, but i just changed that and it still poured oil all over. my next guess is that i notice the oil stick is out of the hole a little bit. is this because of too much pressure in the crank case that cannot be released quick enough through the stock pcv catch can? i have a catch can but i have not put it on the car yet. if i put it on would that fix my problem of the oil stick popping out of the hole?

half-finished car is a recipe for a disaster. why couldn't your tuner not half-ass it and do it right? figure out your codes, your oil issues, and all the other stuff, then get it tuned right. did you replace the stock pump with something better, btw? can you list your turbo modifications, all of them?

[ZX2Fast]

I ran mine vented for a long time. I just ran the PCV to the ground with a hose and a hose from the VC vent to the ground. It worked well enough that I didn't have the dipstick pop out or get oil all over the bay.

Sorry I did not search first , but 4 wire or 6 wire I am assuming its the MAF you guys are talking about , switching that would have no affect what so ever , the 2 extra wires are just for the IAT sensor which just means it has an integrated sensor , its doing the same thing as a separate 4 wire MAF and 2 wire IAT is doing , so swapping is completely unnecessary

You should have searched first, or at least asked the difference. There is a difference, the 4-wire cars were built before the middle of 99 and the 6-wire cars (which all had the faster PCM's) were built after the middle of 99. If the car has a 6-wire MAF on it (stock) then it has the later PCM. That is what we are talking about. If we used the PCM codes, we would have to post an ass-load of codes for people to check theirs against. It is much easier to just ask if the car is a 4 or 6 wire car.

[EnergyBlue98]

Im tired of your crap mimino, nothing is half assed. Theres a search bar where you can find my mods. It was "half tuned" because of the codes i mentioned that just came up so we couldnt get the idle right with a bad o2 sensor. My oil isssues were first introduced when i first drove the car to the shop. Im not half assing crap

[ZX2Fast]

That O2 code is just the heater code. Once the sensor gets warm it works as normal, it shouldn't keep the car from being tuned, it would only affect the performance of the O2 sensor before the engine gets warm. Your EVAP code is probably because the EVAP systems is seeing boost, though I've never seen it on the 3 ZX2's I've boosted.

[EnergyBlue98]

^ hmm.. The car was running about 3/4 on the heat gauge.. :/ i was running a little too hot actually? Im going to check to connection on the sensor again after work, im not too worried about the other code

[ZX2Fast]

No, I mean the O2 heater circuit. The O2 sensor only works when it is warm. The exhaust will warm it up, but that takes longer than warming it with an electric heater that is built into the sensor. The code is saying the heater circuit in the sensor is failed, either the sensor itself has failed (just the heater part) or the wiring to the sensor has failed. If you replaced the sensor, it'll take some time for that code to go away. You should clear the codes and see if that one comes back.

[EnergyBlue98]

I did, and it did.

[ZX2Fast]

Then the problem is in the vehicle wiring.