Thanks, but we know.
They are not talking about the MAF. They are talking about the PCM/ECU.
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i got the car half tuned, it runs and i can floor it to my new redline of 6700. but it still cuts off if i put it in neutral after anything about 4k rpm. the tuner said it was because i was throwing an engine code for my o2 sensor. I'm throwing a P0135 and a P1451. I have changed the o2 sensor with a brand new sensor erased the code, and it came right back :/
also, on a second note. the car is pouring out it's oil all over my engine bay. at first i thought it was the valve cover gasket, but i just changed that and it still poured oil all over. my next guess is that i notice the oil stick is out of the hole a little bit. is this because of too much pressure in the crank case that cannot be released quick enough through the stock pcv catch can? i have a catch can but i have not put it on the car yet. if i put it on would that fix my problem of the oil stick popping out of the hole?
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209.3whp / 246.7wtq
They are talking about the MAF , but they should be actually posting ECU codes since the MAF actually does not have a thing to do with it , the 99.5 up ECU used a 6 wire MAF which has the integrated IAT sensor which has nothing to do with the car stalling , supposedly those PCMs did not have the stalling issues of the older PCMs from the searches I have done , IMO this should be a non issue but whatever floats your boat I guess , looks like someone would find the real issue instead of blaming the ECU
Are you running a stock PCV valve? I think you need to use one with a 1-way check valve, such as the valve the SVO Mustangs used. They're available on focus.c-f-m.com for about $12. The reason I recommend this is because the stock pcv valve never sees positive pressure on an NA engine. Now that you've added pressure, the air can rush through the PCV hose and force air into the crankcase, thus blowing the dipstick out. Other ways around this involve venting the PCV to the ground and capping the nipple on the intake manifold, or using that port as a source for your BOV line.
Also, are you blow thru or suck thru?
...............____............Originally Posted by zx2loon
'03 MTX - Intake - Header - Suspension - Interior.. boosted soon
'91 EGT MTX - MX3 Recaros - K&N panel filter - Diy snorkel - corksport shifter bushings - zxtuner shifter - progress springs - s/r struts
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Have you repped someone helpful today?
Im suck through, and my bov is coming from a small vacuum line on the mani, not the pcv. Is there anyway i can fix this without waiting for something to ship, i nee to drive 4 hours tomorrow :/
You said you have a catch can...use it! Lol
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04/2011 - present: 1999 black zx2 (mtx), hotshot intake, powder's udp.
05/2009 - 04/2011: 1999 black zx2 (auto): hotshot intake, powder's udp.
I ran mine vented for a long time. I just ran the PCV to the ground with a hose and a hose from the VC vent to the ground. It worked well enough that I didn't have the dipstick pop out or get oil all over the bay.
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Im tired of your crap mimino, nothing is half assed. Theres a search bar where you can find my mods. It was "half tuned" because of the codes i mentioned that just came up so we couldnt get the idle right with a bad o2 sensor. My oil isssues were first introduced when i first drove the car to the shop. Im not half assing crap
That O2 code is just the heater code. Once the sensor gets warm it works as normal, it shouldn't keep the car from being tuned, it would only affect the performance of the O2 sensor before the engine gets warm. Your EVAP code is probably because the EVAP systems is seeing boost, though I've never seen it on the 3 ZX2's I've boosted.
^ hmm.. The car was running about 3/4 on the heat gauge.. :/ i was running a little too hot actually? Im going to check to connection on the sensor again after work, im not too worried about the other code
No, I mean the O2 heater circuit. The O2 sensor only works when it is warm. The exhaust will warm it up, but that takes longer than warming it with an electric heater that is built into the sensor. The code is saying the heater circuit in the sensor is failed, either the sensor itself has failed (just the heater part) or the wiring to the sensor has failed. If you replaced the sensor, it'll take some time for that code to go away. You should clear the codes and see if that one comes back.
I did, and it did.
Then the problem is in the vehicle wiring.
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