KLZE V6 Swap How-to (now with pics)

[MrWeeyums]

Here’s my attempt at a write-up for the V6 swap. Unfortunately, I won’t be able to help much with the wiring since I had my friend make the harness, but ill do my best. I’m not going to get into every single mechanical detail either because if you’re trying this you should have pretty good experience working on car already. First is the parts list.

Parts list

KLZE j-spec 2.5 V6 with curved neck intake manifold.

Aftermarket
Headers
UDP
2.5" exhaust w/ high flow cat
ACT Stage 2 clutch
Intake (Zx2 CTA)
10" pusher radiator fan

Mx3
All 4 motor mounts complete
Front to rear crossmember
A-arms
Modified wiring harness
Axles
Flywheel
VAF
ECU

Probe
Distributor
Alternator

Mx6
Transmission
Clutch slave cylinder + first section of hard line.

2nd gen Escort
Return fuel setup
Radiator overflow jug
Throttle cable

82 Chevy Chevette
HEI module

Most of these should be available at a junkyard, which is the way to go to keep the cost down. The engine came from an importer and the aftermarket parts were mostly ebay. Most parts can be found at a local auto parts store if they’re not in the junkyard.

1st step, assembling the engine.

You’ll want to put together as much as possible of the engine outside the car to make things much easier. It should squeeze in with all the accessories on it. Save the exhaust manifolds for after it’s in the car. Swap the alternator and distributor for American versions so they’ll work with the harness. It’s a good idea to replace the water pump, timing belt, and any gaskets that look iffy. The timing belt isn’t essential, however, since this is a non-interference engine.




2nd step, stripping the engine bay.

Pull
The engine/transmission
All the mounts
A-arms
Wiring harness
Lower front to rear crossmember
The front bumper, headlights, header panel, etc..
Pretty much make it an empty engine bay.

This is probably a good time to swap to a manual rack or plug off the lines on the power one. I’m not sure if there’s a way to make the rack work with the KL pump, but I didn’t do it so I won’t be talking about that.

If you want to keep windshield washers you’ll have to relocate the jug since this wont clear the new engine.



3rd step, dropping in the new engine.

Hoist in the new engine. It’s a tight fit, but it’ll make it. Be careful of the master cylinder, it comes very close to the hard lines. Bolt in the 2 mx3 side mounts to hold it in place.




Cut holes in the bottoms of the mx3 a-arms so you can put the nut and bushing on the bottom of the zx2 swap bar end links. Bolt in the a-arms and attach the sway bars. Install the mx3 axles. The alignment will be way off because of the extra half inch length of the a-arms, adjust the tie rod ends to the best of your ability until you can get an alignment.




Attach exhaust manifold and downpipe. It’s easier to not tighten down the manifold to head bolts until the manifold to downpipe ones are started. The zx2 exhaust will have to be cut back to meet up with the V6 downpipe. Luckily, the flange is the same for this aftermarket down pipe and the Kamikaze header I used to run, so it should be the same as the zx2 exhaust but in 2.5” diameter.



The shift linkage from the zx2 will work, but I had to slot the floor half an inch forward to fit. The slave cylinder hard line will bolt right to the zx2 line.
The throttle cable used is from a 2nd gen Escort. My firewall was modified to take a Focus cable already so it didn’t attach properly, but I believe it will in an uncut zx2 firewall.



4th step, coolant system.

I used the zx2 radiator spun 180 degrees and mounted infront of the core support. This is only a temporary solution until I can find one that fits better with the outlets in the right places. I had to cut the center out of the header panel to clear this and small pieces of the hard bumper. A custom made or modified civic half radiator might be the best bet. Use a pusher fan from ebay or a parts store.




5th step, fuel.

The top of the fuel pump will need to be drilled and fitted for a return line. I cut the bung off a 2nd gen Escort and welded it on. Use the complete return line from the Escort and run it along with the zx2 fuel and brake lines to the engine bay. The JB Weld in these pics didn't hold so it was later welded properly.





6th step, wiring.

This is the majority of time invested. You’ll need to combine the zx2 and mx3 harnesses. The mx3 harness is 90% complete, with just a few relays cut out. The zx2 harness gets basically destroyed. Keep the under hood fuse box and CCRM. The Mazda ECU you use will need to be chipped unless you find a jap-spec ECU for the engine. It runs without but its down on hp and the VRIS points aren’t right. Wire the fuel pump to constant power in the key on position. I wish I could help more in this area but I had a friend do the wiring. As of now, my gauges aren’t working. Ill update this writeup when this problem is solved.




I’m sure I’m forgetting a lot in here, but ill continue to update as I remember.


~Ryan

[evilescort]

hmm, very nice... post some pics, im interested in doing the swap but im probly gunna megasquirt it instead of using a factory ecu

[raider]

pics

[Sir William]

Ryan... You my friend are the man!!!

[BlackEscortGT]

So you officaially have the first JDM Zx2? Awesome lol. I wouldlove to get an extra z and attempt this swap but the wireing would drive mw batty. good work man. you make what i want to do not seem so hard.

[99fordzx2]

ood job! Now for the videos of it running. Id ove to see 1/4 times. oh and whats the difference between the J-spec and US versions of the motor. Wouldnt it be easier ie cheaper to find a US version in a junkyard?



-D

[MrWeeyums]

Theres a few videos on my youtube. Just seach "klze zx2". The j-spec is 35hp more out of the box, so i figured that was worth the extra $500. Ill have 1/4 times soon once the clutch is broken in and i figure out how to wire the tach.
~Ryan

[ravensguildassasin]

i know this may seem like a stupid question. but wouldn't it be easier to just install digital gauges. ive seen it done on a zx2 before. if done right it will work great and look great. but that's just my two cents.

:edit: i mean replacing the stock gauges in the cluster with new digital.

[MrWeeyums]

i know this may seem like a stupid question. but wouldn't it be easier to just install digital gauges. ive seen it done on a zx2 before. if done right it will work great and look great. but that's just my two cents.

:edit: i mean replacing the stock gauges in the cluster with new digital.

Thats what im working on right now. Ive been talking to zx2fst about his cluster of autometer guages.
~Ryan

[BlackEscortGT]

Now when your done with this how to make a how to on the wiring with your friend.

[ChillinZX]

Nice.

[Buster]

The wiring looks like a messy headache.

Good job on figuring it out.

[MrWeeyums]

Credit for the wiring goes to Jeremy, KLDE wagon on here. Theres still a bit to be done with it too.
~Ryan

[ZX2Fast]

Looks like there might be room to put a turbo on it. hehe

I hope you do plan to do something to increase the power output or it really wouldn't make sense to do this swap.

Does it look funny with the front wheels sticking out more then stock?

It is neat that you don't have to weld up or fashion custom mounts for the engine and transmission.

[MrWeeyums]

I hope you do plan to do something to increase the power output or it really wouldn't make sense to do this swap.

I wouldnt really say that. This cost about what full bolt ons and a head package on the zetec would cost, makes more power, tons more torque, and has plenty of room to build. But yeah, i wont be leaving it stock either. Ill most likely be going with a 100 shot unless i come across a really good deal on a turbo or supercharger kit. Their turbo kits mount over the tranny like our gude so theres plenty of room.
The wheels dont really stick out at all. Half an inch on each side is barely noticeable. Only time i noticed it was from the alignment being off.
~Ryan