you don't need a high wattage diode at all. there is barely any current running through a remote wire
lolz, I was just at RadioShack today to buy a switch and forgot to look for diodes. Amazingly my stock rear speakers sound pretty decent, they are just in the rear.
Would a diode get really hot with that low wattage? Are they supposed to get hot at all? I don't want to put them somewhere they would get real hot and melt something.
-'03 ZX2 MTX Twilight Blue, Progress Springs, 17" Konig Kolors Gunmetal, STB, 19mm RSB, NGP0, Iceman Intake, Esslinger UDP, TWM Short Shifter, S/R Shift Knob, S/R Seats, 35%/20% Tint, Pioneer DEH-9400BH, Polk Audio 6.5", PowerBass Amp, Kicker 8", RE Audio Amp, LED Conversion
Anyway, I got two 12V 0.5W diodes and made up a wire with heatshrink to cover up the diodes and I'll put it in the car when I have the time. Tested them with an LED to make sure they worked and I had them the right way.
Um yeah... Now neither amps signal on with the diodes. I put it back to how it was and both amps signal on but when turned off one amp still turns on the other... Guess I need a relay? I dunno. My wire worked with the diodes when connected to an LED at around 12V.
I guess my real question should be, why is one amp signaling the other but it doesn't signal itself...? Unless I'm just searching wrong I can't find anything online where someone else's amp signaled another to turn on. The general consensus seems to be that for two amps you should only need the remote lead back to the amps and split into two. No special components. That's exactly how I had it hooked up.
there is some kind of internal issue with one of your amps. Relays should work if diodes don't work
I had this problem way back when I had a beastly JL Audio system in my Contour, I didn't do the wiring myself but I remember that the green signal wire had to be spliced into one of the ground wires coming off the radio head, at least thats what Circuit City told me they did to fix it. I'm not an audio genius but it may be worth a shot.
2000 ZX2 w/ '95 Mazda Millenia KL V6 swap, MegaSquirtPNP, Probe GT MTX, custom DSS 500hp axles, AWR solid trans mounts, KLG4 IM, MX3 GS brake booster/master combo, ebay headers, ebay CAI system, Ford Racing ZX2 inverted coilovers, Cusco camber plates all around, custom made traction bars mounted to frame rails, body kit, 2 tone paint, etc...
Don't mind me... I have the dumb. I was going to test sooner, but I was too lazy because it's too hot out. But I flipped my wire around with the diode on it and hooked it up to one amp. Turns on. Tried the other wire the the other diode. Turns on. Tried the other amp. Turns on. The diodes were backwards... Apparently I can't tell positive from negative when testing. Tested it again and made sure I knew which was connected to which and for sure, they were backwards. I wired both diodes together to form the Y so it was a bit more difficult to get them apart after being soldered. But I got it done, connected it up one at a time, then together with the car on and off. Amps come on when the head unit does and turn off when the car is off. Success! Wiring looks like poop now but it was too hot and I barely got that done without sweating to death.
Sorry I wasn't here to help you buddy. I would have walked you through it or drove down to Waco to help. I'm finally back in the DFW area and pretty much in Waco every weekend. Or at least when Baylor has a home game.
Driving a fast Honda is like coming out of the closet. Surprised at first but in the end you're still gay.
Thanks. I hope everything keeps on working from now on. If not I'll let you know. With all the times I've had to unhook the battery and loose my head unit settings I had to opportunity to play with the settings again to see if I could got a bit more bass from the sub. I figured out I had the fade too far to the front so when I turned up the music the front would get too loud and rattle the doors (even with plenty more Dynamat than you recommended) before the sub had much of a chance to turn up. I set the fade back the middle and now I have bass from the sub and I can turn up the music without rattling the doors. I still prefer more sound from the front, but losing the rattles and gaining the sub sound was better. The stock rear speakers aren't really overbearing anyway. I'm no audio expert so it's good enough for me.
I was in Arlington for the Ford Ecoboost Challenge two weekends ago and went over to Ft. Worth afterward to meet up with some friends. You headed to Waco this weekend for the Baylor game? I'll be working that evening so I'll get hit with all the hungry Baylor fans after the game.
No man, I wish. I had to go out of town. I won't be back until October 30.
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