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Thread: Poor mans ps and ac ps deletes

  1. #271

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    Anyone, please?

  2. #272

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    Quote Originally Posted by McGotti View Post
    My question is similar to mad_engine93 above.

    The only thing I need to delete is the P/S, but I don't have the tools/equipment etc to remove and swap pulleys, so I'm assuming I need to try the P/S and A/C delete.

    After reading the entire thread, I'm still a bit confused, though. Is there a way for me and my shadetree mechanic to do this without swapping pulleys? It's a 99 Cool model, completely stock, daily driver.

    The belt kept walking off over a couple week period, fluid leaking from the lower hose fitting down by the wheel--pretty sure I caused that leak, as I put quite a bit of pressure on it trying to get my wrench to turn the tensioner from below.

    The P/S pump has seized, I assume, as the P/S pulley sheared off last week.

    I know the best thing is to just get a new pump, or pump with pulley still attached from the junkyard, but I can't afford it right this minute.

    Also, I've seen two different opinions on steering without the pump running. Loop the lines back on themselves or no? I'm only expecting to drive a few miles per day for a couple weeks before I can fix it right, so how bad would I mess things up by not looping the lines? Esp considering I have a leak in the system?
    Look on the first post, the routing is there. With instructions.

    No special tools required to swap pulleys, just a metric wrench set.

    The lower hose (by the crank pulley) if I am thinking it is the right one is coolant. You want to fix that before you run the motor out of coolant and blow it up.

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  3. #273

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    Ok sorry for the question but 8 have a 98 so do I buy a pulley from an 03 and it's a straight swap?

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  4. #274

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    Replacing pully 8 with and extra pully 5 is there a trick to that? Because I tried and it wouldn't spin.

  5. #275

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tucker914 View Post
    Replacing pully 8 with and extra pully 5 is there a trick to that? Because I tried and it wouldn't spin.
    I had the same problem as a few others. I didn't see anything written about it but here's what I did.

    Quote Originally Posted by 1981gMachine View Post
    The red is where the pulley is rubbing and what I ground down with my 2" air grinder with a 50grit disc. Grind a bit, then bolt the pulley back on to the tensioner and check for clearance. Stop when the pulley spins freely and you don't hear any grinding.

    Here's my test subject. I took more care with my one I put on my car.

    To be clear, you just have to remove some material off the tensoner's surface, not the pulley. The highlighted red aera on the tensoner is what needs trimmed down to not contact the highlighted red area on the pulley. How few people have had this problem, I don't know. Unless nobody was checking to see if it spun freely and just started the car up?

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  6. #276

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    Anybody know what size washers you need for the ribbed idler to set on the tensioner properly? Went through several of these before switching to the metal idler. Ate two different belts as well before I figured out what the issue was. Just didn't have time to look into it.
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    I didn't need washers as that will cause a misalignment. I just had to grind a bit of metal off the tensioner until the pulley spun freely.
    Found the limits of factory internals. Pictures here.

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  8. #278

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hardline View Post
    I didn't need washers as that will cause a misalignment. I just had to grind a bit of metal off the tensioner until the pulley spun freely.
    This.

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    Well see that's the problem. Currently, the pulley is misaligned without spacers, it sits in too far. Its visible whether the belt is on or not. It is like that with every pulley I have used. I also ground the ring off the back of the pulley, so it spins freely. Im asking because it snapped a belt last night on the way to work during some brisk driving. It ATE two plastic pulleys, the only style of ribbed tensioner pulley that can fit our cars available in-store from any auto parts place around here. Rock auto doesn't have anything but plastic either. Only ford and jy's have the metal pulley. The belt visibly moves inward from the water pump pulley to the ribbed tensioner pulley. Even without the belt you can tell looking down at it from above. It causes enormous stress on the tensioner and belt causing the belt to squeal. It looks like the edge of the belt melted to the outer edge of the wp pulley after it walked onto the edge of the tensioner, exactly how it ate the other two plastic pulleys. The last belt also shredded. Its not the tensioner arm, wp pulley, or any other part of the serpentine system. It will go from straight to misaligned while the engine is running, depending on how much stress the engine is under.

    This is part of the reason I haven't put up any pics yet or answered questions. Want to get all the bugs worked out first.

    I will take a pic of the pulleys in a second and post it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hardline View Post
    Belt routing for AC only delete.

    Attachment 32299
    This is fine and great for A/C only delete and factory size pullies, but now we have two different routes. Does this require two different belt sizes? Or will the same size belt work for both?
    Additionally, I figured out that we could skip the last ribbed pulley altogether by going crank to alt. However, I
    Couldn't find a belt length to do so. Thoughts?

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