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Thread: TheEvilZX2

  1. #46

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    I ran a -10 an to the valve cover and cfm pcv delete to a catch can infront of battery and at 12-15psi on 185k motor I made about an ounce every couple months. This is the can I have been using but with the nipples in the center parallel with the bolt holes http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-baf...sAAOSwymxVI9pj
    00' Black S/R - s252 bullseye, spa manifold, turbosmart wastegate, turboXs bov, ms3x, mtx-75 transmission, bilstein coilovers
    ---------------------
    AntMachining.com

  2. #47

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    Thats interesting, cuz I'm definitely getting more blow-by than that.

    I've even added about a half a quart of oil after 300ish miles.

    Oh well, it feels healthy. I'll just empty my ghetto catch can and keep an eye on the oil every time I start it up. Its not like this is a daily driver or anything. I'm just trying to not blow it up and get a solid tune before swapping in the built motor.

    AntMachining - I like that catch can, looks like the neukin cans. In the long run I'll probably get one of the bigger ones from them. Since im currently tight on money, Mimino is going to send me an eBay can to use.

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  3. #48

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    In preparation for the catch can to get here I switched over to a silicone line from the PCV and setup another temporary catch can.



    After a drive it seems to collect less blow-by.

    Also switched the synapse bov from ports a+b to port b only (port a to atmosphere). Driving in vacuum had an odd stumble when in the rpm range of spooling the turbo, this cleared it up a bit. If it doesn't storm all day tomorrow I want to see if its any better on port a only.

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  4. #49

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    CLEAN! lol

    How much you boosting currently?
    Quote Originally Posted by zxtwou2 View Post
    Making bigger pipe as the exhaust flowd and cools makes eddy currents ehich is what mskes rasp.

    Helping raise some cash for our long-timer ZX2Fast. Parts here: click me

    06/2016-TurdBo Vj11
    04/2011 - present: 1999 black zx2 (mtx)
    05/2009 - 04/2011: 1999 black zx2 (atx)

  5. #50

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    Thanks haha

    WG spring combo rated at .6 bar/8.7psi, but I see about 7psi on the boost gauge.

    Just woke up, and its sunny out now. I should probably go drive it asap as its supposed to rain the rest of the day.

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  6. #51

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    Well things have been interesting over the last few weeks.

    I've been slowly thinning out the MAF transfer function and was getting things straightened out. Then one day I started it up and it was running 5% richer than normal at idle and part throttle, dead on where it was at WOT.

    I checked everything over, tested for boost leaks and couldn't find any reason for the richness. So I took another 5% out and all was well, for a few days. I drove it two Sundays ago then didn't touch the car because of all the rain we were having. Well last Saturday I went out to the shop and as I always do check the car over. Found a few drops of coolant on the floor. Screamer pipe was hitting the radiator right on the seam for the end tank and that's where the leak was coming from.

    Not a great pic, but here is the screamer pipe, radiator, the leaks visible on the end tank and the drops of coolant are on the floor in this pic too



    So I thought I'd need to get the screamer pipe rewelded....but decided to tinker around with it and ended up with this. Shoulda set it up this way to begin with...doh!



    While I was in there I took some pliers to the radiator and tightened up the connection to the end tank where it got beatup. No more leaks!

    So here's the screamer (in its new position) where it was hitting


    And here's the radiator where it got beatup



    So that fun was over and I got back to working on the MAF transfer function again. Made a few more tunes and I'm pretty happy with how it ran in open loop.

    Today I made one last change and test drive then enabled closed loop and took another drive. Runs great.

    The car never smoked at all while driving before in open loop, and I've put just shy of 500 miles on it while doing all of my testing and tuning. But on my closed loop drive it smoked after a full boost pull and letting completely off the gas, maybe the first three times I boosted it. Then it stopped. Not sure what that was all about, it runs about 3-4% richer than commanded at WOT but no smoke while in boost and no smoke at all the rest of the drive after that.

    All in all I feel like I've developed a pretty solid tune. I'm pretty happy with how it runs and I hope it continues to pass emissions when that comes up haha

    Anyhow, tomorrows another day and I'll be back at it before the rain comes this weekend.


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  7. #52

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    As far as smoke is concerned, triple check your return. Grab a clear tube and connect it to your bung to see if you have any backups at cold starts (highest oil pressure). Return is your #1 spot to check when you start experiencing smoking issue - just check my threads on the one I've been chasing down last year lol

  8. #53

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    I dont think its burning oil though, the smoke appears whiteish as if coolant/water. I think it might be leftover water from the combustion process. I dont have any coolant loss since fixing the endtank. And I only seem to be loosing oil via the PCV to catch can. Plus, when the car gets completely warmed up ive got no smoking at all.

    It still wouldnt hurt to check though. I'll have to swap over to a barbed fitting as ive currently got -12AN on the turbo drain side and no clear tubing to replace the SS braid with. Next time I have that out I'll switch it over.

    I've driven the car a few times since and it still does it, but feels just fine. It didnt smoke one bit (aside from steamy startups) when in Open Loop only...

  9. #54

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    Got an email from the MVA, it's due for emissions early October.

    I'm going to spend as much time as possible working on getting the fuel as close to perfect as I can. Then enable adaptive fuel and see if it passes.

  10. #55

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    Hi teamzx2....how about an update.

    so there is some oil being burnt. not sure if its oil or water burning off after the boost/letoff that i mentioned before. but that clears up after warmup. what started happening is ive got a few random times at a stop waiting for a light to change that the car just puffed out a cloud then stopped as suddenly as it started.

    so i pulled the downpipe last weekend to see if it was full of oil, and its not. Just a few spots of oil residue inside.


    there is some oil residue on the inside of the turbine housing, up where it mates to the CHRA. couldnt get a good picture of it as the camera focuses on the turbine wheel. some oil residue visible on the wheel.


    while the downpipe was off i wrapped it. no pics but its wrapped. drove it a few times since and havent had that cloud at a stop again....yet. but at this point turbo is suspect...maybe. I'm still waiting to get more miles on this oil before doing an oil change, but when I do im going to take Mimino's advice and double, triple, quadruple check that the drain isnt backing up.

    my turbo is a journal bearing, and im not running a restrictor with a -4an feed line. ive got three thoughts on this is, either oil pressure is too high and blowing by the turbo, the turbo seals are bad, or due to the fact im not running a restrictor im passing too large a volume of oil and the drain is backing up due to that. all speculation until i swap over to the push on drain flange, and i need to order some clear 5/8ths hose before I can check that.

    im quite happy with the tune as it is, closed loop and adaptive turned off. so ive been working on renormalizing the tables so i can get a bit finer control of fuel and spark in the RPM range mostly used. an unintended consequence of this is that the VCT tables use some of the spark normalizers, so i had to work on the VCT tables as well.
    Last edited by TheEvilZX2; 09-12-2017 at 01:39 PM.

  11. #56

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    So this past weekend I changed the front swaybar bushings and end links. Since i had the battery pulled to get to the driver side bushing i decided to flash my renormalized tune. It drives just as well as it did before.

    So since i had 4 degrees of timing pulled globally i flashed another tune adding 1 degree back in and went on a test drive.... well the damn thing died on me. I didnt have any tools with me, just the laptop datalogging. Thankfully I noticed there was no fuel pressure and a quick check of the fuel pump connectors got me back driving again.

    Drove it again today, cleaned and secured my fuel pump wires. After looking over my logs I'm seeing around 14/15 degrees max timing at WOT. Still seems healthy. I'm still on 7psi and havent played with the VCT tuning as of yet.

    Car needs tires mounted and balanced and I need to do a timing job, anyone got an adjustable cam gear theyd like to get rid of?

  12. #57

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    Any more updates?

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    Nothing has changed since the last update, just been driving it on the weekends here and there. Almost to that 800 mile mark of being boosted.

    This weekend I may take it to see if it will pass emissions, I've only got till NOV 04. Not a single CEL since boosting so I think I may be good to go.

    One issue I've noticed is my datalogs show that at WOT and higher RPM I'm right at the max duty cycle for the fuel pump and fuel injector pressure drop gets a little shaky, but still within safe ranges and AFR is solid so I'm not too worried about it right now....just wont be upping the boost until I can address that. I think an Aeromotive 340 pump might be in the future....and I'll probably upgrade all the fuel pump wires while I'm at it.

    I'm more worried about when I run out of injector....those big boys are expensive and only sold in pairs of 8. At least the ones from Ford Racing are anyhow...

  14. #59

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    Well it passed emissions this morning, and eclipsed that 800 mile mark.

    As soon as I pulled off the emissions testing lot the fucker died on me lol. Fuel again, but this time seeming way too rich. I could hear the pump screaming wideband showing .64 lambda, which way richer than it ever actually runs and could smell gas. Datalog showed fuel pressure drop across injectors was atmospheric pressure.

    I did drive it home 20 miles. It would die coming to a stop (too rich), start right up and run as long as it got a lot of throttle and the rpms stayed up there. Then just as suddenly as it started fuel pressure went back to normal and it drove the rest of the way home beautifully.

    Now I'm wondering if I've got an injector sticking open, or possibly that fuel pressure sender is going bad....

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