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  1. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mimino View Post
    On an unrelated note, I urge every zx2 driver to check their throttle cable slack at the pedal. Mine developed a large gap, and looks like I was not getting full WOT.
    Mine had this too. Pedal felt weird since the day I bought the car. I could tap my foot on the pedal at a stop light and it would do nothing. Also made heel & toe downshifting very awkward. Finally crawled under the dash and found that there was a large gap between the end of the cable and the top of the pedal arm. After looking at a j/y, I saw there was supposed to be a soft rubber collar there. I think it acts like a little shock absorber so if your foot bounces on the pedal going over bumpy road the car doesn't get all herky jerky with those small throttle inputs. I made a delrin sleeve to take up the slack. Was hoping for a little boost in accel, but I had 100% throttle before the fix, but slow car is still slow


    1 running Ford out of 5 isn't bad, right?

  2. #32

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    with the fidanza flywheel it will get a little herky jerky if youre not careful. pretty sure that thing was long gone before i ever put the fidanza in....i wonder if the two together just compounded the problem.

    anywho...from the little ive driven it now being turboed and tuning it, it actually feels much smoother than it ever did lmao

  3. #33

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    It seems no matter what I do I've got two little lean spots. I've even started over again and within 3 or 4 tweaks I'm pretty dialed in except these two spots. Once I'm above that rpm/MAF ad count it all looks pretty good.

    I setup the base fuel table to run rich best torque above 75% load and set off into new territory. Hit about 5psi for a few seconds with fuel pretty close around where it was commanded.

    I just finished going over logs from the last drive and tweaked the maf transfer function some more. Trying to fatten up the lean spots and just a little bit up top for a safety factor as I'll be slowly pushing it more with boost.

    Now I need to go flash and get some more driving in

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  4. #34

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    Well I got some more logs in and have ran thru 3rd and 4th gear under boost, she moves pretty well under only 5psi. MAF table still needs work as its a bit richer than commanded under boost. But out of boost is pretty spot on except for these two odd lean spikes while in vacuum. As long as I baby it at those lean spots I'm good from there up to redline.

    It just doesnt seem right throwing more air at the ranges of the lean spots when it doesnt seem to be clearing them up, and I'm pretty happy with everywhere else in the MAF curve. So reading over the Lasota tuning manual it suggests tuning the "Load with failed MAF" table, as some PCMs use the load in that table for predictive fueling. I've started filling out that table based off of my last datalogs. It says if that doesnt fix lean spikes then its time to take a look at transient fueling.

    So a friend of mine came down yesterday and followed me in his Cobalt SS. I was taking logs and did 4th gear pull from about 3200RPM at 5psi and he had to get into it to stay with me....He was impressed.

  5. #35

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    Finished filling out the "Load with failed MAF" table, it cleaned up those lean spots pretty much. Ive taken it on a few 20+ minute drives and tip is much better, no more hesitation on part throttle tip in.

    Running quite well now actually.

    Needs catch can. and tires.

  6. #36

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    Yeah the lean spots are still there at tip-in. I stopped messing with the MAF curve in the tune in the hopes that fresh new spark plugs might help. I've now got some colder copper motorcraft plugs in there now and they didnt change anything.

    I've been looking over logs most of the week after work and played around with some Transient fueling tables. Elliott (aprophetofone) is in town and will be at the house today with me, were gonna test this tune out and see if it clears up the lean condition at tip-in.

  7. #37

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    Well i fattened up the MAF Transfer function in an attempt to clear up these lean spots since none of the other setting ive played with helped. Well I guess im on to something here, the lean spot is GREATLY reduced, only leaning out 5%. Now the rest of my curve is rich as hell. She drives quite well and with the added fuel the turbo spools slightly sooner/faster....

    It just been beat into my head that the MAF Transfer Function should always be a linear increasing curve with no sudden jumps. Well now that I've done this there is a spot around 300ish AD Counts where it steps up more than the other cells around it, the curve is still increasing in numbers as it goes up.....i just dont know that this is the correct way to handle this issue. Can anyone chime in on this?

    Anyhow, I'm going to start trimming fuel from the Transfer Function now until i can get everything back to a few degrees of what I'm commanding. This is just a process and I've still got a long way to go it seems.

  8. #38

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    Well shes running pretty good now. Still have a little fat to trim in the lower MAF transfer function but up top is within 4-5%.

    So i upped the boost this weekend. Was was running the blue spring (.4bar/5.8psi) and seeing 5psi on the gauge, I added the green spring for .6bar/8.7psi and now seeing about 7psi on the gauge. Definite increase, part throttle boost now is pretty sweet.



    I think im pretty close to letting it go closed loop. Really need a catch can though, got a good deal of blowby lol. I ghetto rigged a plastic bottle in place good for 50/60 miles of boost or about 3 test drives as ive been doing them.


    Just noticed photobucket links are down. for those who care imgur link added to first post and below
    https://imgur.com/gallery/9CPMs
    Last edited by TheEvilZX2; 07-17-2017 at 02:28 PM. Reason: i took a picture

  9. #39

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    Nice work, mang! You can have my ebay catch can, just pay for shipping.

    How is your pcv setup, btw?
    Quote Originally Posted by zxtwou2 View Post
    Making bigger pipe as the exhaust flowd and cools makes eddy currents ehich is what mskes rasp.

    Helping raise some cash for our long-timer ZX2Fast. Parts here: click me

    06/2016-TurdBo Vj11
    04/2011 - present: 1999 black zx2 (mtx)
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  10. #40

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    PCV is currently VTA on a -8an line. Next time the turbo is out I'm going to swap over to a -10 or equivalent sized line. And possibly flip the CFM PCV to point towards the passenger side, I'm hoping it clears the turbine housing.

    PMing you about the catch can

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  11. #41

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    Hmm, mine is vented to atmosphere as well with a stockish baffle and normal pcv valve (might be gutted inside, don't remember), and I don't (at least didn't lol) experience much blowby. PM replied.

    Can't wait until you get done tuning this thing. Should be a beast.

  12. #42

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    ive got the CFM PCV "delete" to a 1/2npt to 8an adapter to a -8an line. thats it.

    it was ran to the check valve when i thought i was going to run it back to the IM, but the engine didnt like full vacuum with no metering (PCV valve). Previous setup below.

    so i just capped the check valve, its still sitting right there, then cut a slit in a plastic bottle and shoved that 90 elbow in. lol. ghetto but it works for now....


    do you get much blowby? with the pcv valve in there its restricting flow....so maybe thats why im seeing so much without one...

    that stuff is pretty nasty that comes out from down there, looks like dark oil and smells like gas. i get nothing at all from the valve cover.
    my oil on the other hand is still nice a nice and clean gold, granted it is amsoil and ive only put about 300 miles on it but i wouldnt want that shit back in my oil lol

  13. #43

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    Lots of debate on pcv system when boosting. I tend to side with turbotom on this. Not sure if cfm delete is restrictive at all, but the way you had it setup before (with check valve to the im) was not doing anything good under boost (most of the blowby is generated under acceleration, anyway). Gasses can't escape the crankcase when boost pressure is applying force onto the checkvalve (they'd have to travel up and thru the vc breather or any seals like crank seal, etc.). Just leave it dangling like this (or to the catch can like you want to do), and it should be good to go.

    Read here: http://www.aa1car.com/library/pcv.htm

    When the engine starts, vacuum in the intake manifold pulls on the pintle and sucks the PCV valve open. The pintle is pulled up against the spring and moves to its highest position. But the tapered shape of the pintle does not allow maximum flow in this position. Instead, it restricts flow so the engine will idle smoothly.

    The same thing happens during deceleration when intake vacuum is high. The pintle is pulled all the way up to reduce flow and minimize the effect of blowby on decel emissions.

    When the engine is cruising under light load and at part throttle, there is less intake vacuum and less pull on the pintle. This allows the pintle to slide down to a mid-range position and allow more airflow.

    Under high load or hard acceleration conditions, intake vacuum drops even more, allowing the spring inside the PCV valve to push the pintle valve even lower to its maximum flow position. If blowby pressure builds up faster than the PCV system can handle it, the excess pressure flows back through the breather hose to the air cleaner and is sucked back into the engine and burned.

  14. #44

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    I do know how it works in factory configuration. But had no idea how much blowby to expect with a 180k factory motor under 5-7psi.....it turns out that its a good amount lol.

    I'm with the idea that the more crank case ventilation the better, but i also agree that having some vacuum on the crank case is ideal. However there really shouldnt be any issues with opening up the crank case as much as possible so there isnt (or as little as possible) positive pressure inside the crank case. As long as the lines have less resistance than any of the seals/gaskets internal to the motor blowby should find its way out that way without any issues.

    I normally like to keep things as simple as possible, but I'd love to apply vacuum to the crank under all conditions. Ive even made a little adapter to run the factory PCV valve to the -8an line. My idea was at first to get a vacuum reservoir and a vacuum pump, run my -8an line with factory PCV valve from the reservoir to the CFM PCV with a catch can in between. This would catch as much blowby as possible before the vacuum reservoir and prevent oil crap getting into the electric vacuum pump, as i hear they dont like to operate in such conditions and will quickly crap out. With the added cost for the pump, res, lines, fittings i decided against it and will probably just keep it VTA for now...

  15. #45

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    If you do go that route (vac pump), post it up. Would be interesting to see that application.

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