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Thread: Help with Koni Race Strut Build

  1. #16

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    We also bought some domed pressed post caps that were available at out metal supplier. They were cut to fit the tubing ID and the hole drilled. The domed shape mimicked the OE strut body and helps to center the Koni insert when the gland nut compresses the insert into place.




  2. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheEvilZX2 View Post
    Subscribed. This is neat! I've never built a shock before and never seen anyone else make one either!

    What is the ground control kit you're using?
    Good question. First realize that Ground Control is very boutique in the sense that you can customize almost anything and they have substitutes for about every situation. We ordered a ZX2 kit, but ended up altering several things.

    1) We changed the threaded sleeves for a weld-in version for 2" strut OD. This includes a weld-on ring that get welding to the strut body and then the aluminum threaded sleeve sits on that ring.
    2) We altered the springs to 600 lb/in in the front a 400 lb/in in the rear. I will share details into our motion and roll analysis and decision-making process for those later.
    3) We ended up ordering GC's camber/caster plates, so we did not need the GC ZX2 front spring hats, because the GC plates come with their own dedicated spring hat and strut bearing.
    4) I will also mention that we really wanted to run a 7" springs up front as they are more readily available and have more spring rate options and would support spring swapping. Unfortunately we realized that it just would not fit without the spring perch being where the tire would likely be. We switched to the GC top-mount plates at the last minute and these might support the needed space to run a 7" springs, but we decided not to chance it.
    Last edited by BryanPendleton; 09-14-2017 at 12:10 PM.

  3. #18

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    Would love to hear your justification on the spring rates front and rear.

  4. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by gotts2bme View Post
    Would love to hear your justification on the spring rates front and rear.
    Me, too. I'm imagining Kart-like handling. My 68 Mustang has 620# in the front and it weighs 1000 lbs more than a ZX2.

    1 running Ford out of 5 isn't bad, right?

  5. #20

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    The decision-making process involved alot of data gathering first. What data did we gather, you ask? Keep in mind we are no F1 team, just a bunch of friends on limited budget.

    A) Detailed photos of the car under load (ie cornering)
    B) Suspension geometry, including: Sway bar geometry, control arm geometry, estimated ride heights, motion ratios for springs and sway bars
    C) Spring rates, for both springs and sway bars (ie. calculated from geometry)
    D) Corner weights of the car, with estimates for unsprung corner weights
    E) Knowing and understanding how the car, in its current state, is handling (driver feedback)

    Now much of our analysis may not be super scientific or anything, but helps us understand where we were and take us where we want to go. Analysis included:

    1. Importing photos into CAD to estimate body roll angles.
    2. Suspension geometry was used to model the suspension geometry in 3D CAD
    3. With body roll angles of (1) and geometry of (2), we can estimate our current suspension travel used
    4. With the geometry of (2) we are able to determine suspension camber curves (changes in camber with various levels of suspension compression and expansion).
    5. With the geometry of (2) we are able to determine steering camber curves (changes in camber from various steering angles and the impact of adding additional caster.)
    6. With (4) and (5) we decided that we wanted to reduce our suspension travel to around +/- 1.0". This keeps the car out of the unfavorable suspension geometry positions and should provide adequate suspension travel for the tracks we run on)
    7. We then ran a roll analysis to calculate the front and rear roll stiffness of our current setup and other possible setups. The goal here was to create a more balanced handing car by shifting some roll stiffness to the rear and provide the total roll stiffness to reduce our suspension travel and roll in the corners.
    8. We then ran some motion calcs on the individual corners to look at natural wheel frequencies

    We considered a few setups, but ultimately decided on:
    Removal of the Front Anti-Roll Bar (ARB) with 600 lbs/in springs up front.
    The rear will keep our current 19mm ARB with 400 lbs/in spring.
    The front sway bar will save us probably over 30-lbs off the front of the car, so we like this idea. The 600/400 combo also created similar wheel frequencies with the rear being about 10-20% higher.

    I will post us our analysis spreadsheet results soon, so you can see the numbers and other setups we considered.
    Last edited by BryanPendleton; 09-15-2017 at 07:53 AM. Reason: Updated a few corrections and mistakes

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    Default Help with Koni Race Strut Build



    Not pretty, but will get the job done.
    Last edited by BryanPendleton; 09-18-2017 at 08:54 AM.

  7. #22

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    Looking good. Hopefully you threaded the top end for the gland nut before welding the bottoms on. Did you have a tap for that, or single point them on a lathe? And, what is the purpose of the hole? Is there a bolt, stud or pin at the bottom of the insert that goes through there?

    1 running Ford out of 5 isn't bad, right?

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