Results 1 to 13 of 13

Thread: Throttle cable sticking

  1. #1

    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    379
    Points
    55,265
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    55,265
    Donate  

    Default Throttle cable sticking

    Should I replace it or is there a fix to keep it from sticking? Is this a common problem?

    John

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    las vegas, so cal
    Posts
    21,450
    Points
    419,416
    Bank
    210,623,259
    Total Points
    211,042,674
    Donate  
    for the superman of the zx2 savers - daggit2005 Henry Ford < Dareall - SR2000 For the entertaining builds...constantly :-) - CJW For being a great member and friend to many. - CJW you sir are awarded the medal of awsome - daggit2005 
    Scammer Slaughering Medal of Honor - Hardline this is for the candy ive got from you with my purchases the past few years. - blue99fordzx2 For moving/locking my post when asked :) - blue99fordzx2 Thx for helping me get my car put back together. - X-Lr8 It's lunch time here. lolz - rascal 
    For dealing with dumbass n00bs. - RASCAL How much for the trim piece? LOL - RASCAL Absolute hero. I cannot imagine how helpful and kind a person Dareall is.  THANK YOU. - SoCalZx2Rob For doing my part out and finally getting the parts sold.  I owe it all to you.  Thanks Dareall.  I'll never forget it.  Thank god it's finally done.  XD - SoCalZx2Rob 

    Default

    when you removed it from the zx2 did you kink it in any way?

    is the plastic covering on it still intact?

    is it routed the same way as the zx2 should be?

    has it been doing this since your swap?
    We're gonna ride the race cars
    We're gonna dance on fire

    Best sale thread ever !!

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    379
    Points
    55,265
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    55,265
    Donate  

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dareall View Post
    when you removed it from the zx2 did you kink it in any way?
    Nope. Pulled it off without bending it.

    Quote Originally Posted by dareall View Post
    is the plastic covering on it still intact?
    The plastic covering near the manifold got brittle(from the heat I'm guessing) and has fallen off but the rest of the plastic is intact.

    Quote Originally Posted by dareall View Post
    is it routed the same way as the zx2 should be?
    It is routed the same way as the zx2.

    Quote Originally Posted by dareall View Post
    has it been doing this since your swap?
    This started a few days ago.

    It's not something that happens with consistency although it is getting progressively worse,

    John

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    las vegas, so cal
    Posts
    21,450
    Points
    419,416
    Bank
    210,623,259
    Total Points
    211,042,674
    Donate  
    for the superman of the zx2 savers - daggit2005 Henry Ford < Dareall - SR2000 For the entertaining builds...constantly :-) - CJW For being a great member and friend to many. - CJW you sir are awarded the medal of awsome - daggit2005 
    Scammer Slaughering Medal of Honor - Hardline this is for the candy ive got from you with my purchases the past few years. - blue99fordzx2 For moving/locking my post when asked :) - blue99fordzx2 Thx for helping me get my car put back together. - X-Lr8 It's lunch time here. lolz - rascal 
    For dealing with dumbass n00bs. - RASCAL How much for the trim piece? LOL - RASCAL Absolute hero. I cannot imagine how helpful and kind a person Dareall is.  THANK YOU. - SoCalZx2Rob For doing my part out and finally getting the parts sold.  I owe it all to you.  Thanks Dareall.  I'll never forget it.  Thank god it's finally done.  XD - SoCalZx2Rob 

    Default

    i am going to go with the throttle cable having dirt in it. With the way the weather has been it is likely adding moisture to the dirt causing this binding. Since the cable is already brittle and cracked at the point you mention then i would just wash it out with soap and water through the cracks in the plastic covering. I usually disconnect the cable from the throttle body and let it hang down to dry out after this. Then as a further measure i spray wd-40 or similar lubricant on there then wipe it all off and finish the cable off with some electrical tape and a zip tie

    ps. check your throttle body for free movement as well. It may be that which is not moving freely to the closed position
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    379
    Points
    55,265
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    55,265
    Donate  

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dareall View Post
    i am going to go with the throttle cable having dirt in it. With the way the weather has been it is likely adding moisture to the dirt causing this binding. Since the cable is already brittle and cracked at the point you mention then i would just wash it out with soap and water through the cracks in the plastic covering. I usually disconnect the cable from the throttle body and let it hang down to dry out after this. Then as a further measure i spray wd-40 or similar lubricant on there then wipe it all off and finish the cable off with some electrical tape and a zip tie

    ps. check your throttle body for free movement as well. It may be that which is not moving freely to the closed position
    I checked the throttle body and it moves freely.

    Question....my cable looks like the first picture. Is the cable wound in the metal or is there a plastic inner sleeve and then it's wound? If there isn't a plastic sleeve then I'm going to do what you did and see if that helps.

    Thanks Dareall!

    John

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    156
    Points
    32,337
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    32,337
    Donate  

    Default

    The plastic is only on the outside. Mine has lost most of the plastic and it sticks slightly too sometimes.

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Lake Zurich, IL
    Posts
    4,659
    Points
    273,280
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    273,280
    Donate  

    Default

    Replace it, it's common enough as I have swapped it out for a new one twice already. Over time it drags against the shielding inside, and the resistance you feel in the pedal is the loose debris catching the cable.
    Quote Originally Posted by david gettle View Post
    I had a claim last year because I hit a frozen pile of manure
    2000 ZX2 w/ '95 Mazda Millenia KL V6 swap, '00 Mazda Miata rear brakes, MegaSquirtPNP (with VAF delete/IAT mod, and AEM Wideband w/ Bosch 4.9 sensor) '00 626 MTX w/ platemod and Mfactory diff w/ 3-4-5 gears, custom DSS 500hp axles, AWR solid trans mounts, GT35 turbo w/ custom 3" downpipe, KLG4 IM, MX3 GS brake booster/master combo, Ford Racing ZX2 inverted coilovers, Cusco camber plates all around w/ Cusco strut tower bar, custom made traction bars to frame rails, body kit, 2 tone paint, and much more.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    379
    Points
    55,265
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    55,265
    Donate  

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ChillinZX View Post
    Replace it, it's common enough as I have swapped it out for a new one twice already. Over time it drags against the shielding inside, and the resistance you feel in the pedal is the loose debris catching the cable.
    Who sells a new one? I'm guessing Tasca? I looked on their site and they have various ones. Part number?

    Would it be advisable to take it apart and try and get some silicon lubricant inside the metal sleeve?

    John

  9. #9
    oljeeptek's Avatar
    oljeeptek is offline So good I make me want to slap yo momma!

    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Frosty old Minnesota
    Posts
    2,480
    Points
    23,592
    Bank
    82,276
    Total Points
    105,868
    Donate  

    Default

    I would pull out your drivers floor mat first. It might be grabbing the gas pedal if its out of place or warped up. Had that happen before. Much fun to be had.
    "Political Correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical, liberal minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

    "If the idiots don't like you, it proves that you're not an idiot"- the 'Nuge

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    379
    Points
    55,265
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    55,265
    Donate  

    Default

    Still looking for this part. My shop manual lists the part as a 9A758 but it doesn't show the first set of numbers that I need to be able to find the ZX2 specific cable. The 9A758 part number is also used for ford rangers and broncos but with a different first set of numbers.

    I sent Dareall a PM on this but if anyone else can provide that number it would be greatly appreciated.

    ***EDIT*** Found it. Part number for accelerator cable is xs4z-9a758-ba. It has been discontinued by Ford so lets see if anyone has one laying around on their shelves.

    John
    Last edited by Novanutcase; 01-25-2018 at 04:41 PM.

  11. #11

    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Oklahoma City, OK
    Posts
    7,978
    Points
    220,010
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    220,010
    Donate  
    Yep, thats pie. - Meta 

    Default

    What's the actual procedure to replace the t cable? Looks like a major pita...
    Quote Originally Posted by zxtwou2 View Post
    Making bigger pipe as the exhaust flowd and cools makes eddy currents ehich is what mskes rasp.

    Helping raise some cash for our long-timer ZX2Fast. Parts here: click me

    06/2016-TurdBo Vj11
    04/2011 - present: 1999 black zx2 (mtx)
    05/2009 - 04/2011: 1999 black zx2 (atx)

  12. #12

    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    lancaster, PA
    Posts
    1,043
    Points
    49,313
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    49,313
    Donate  

    Default

    disconnect at the throttle body, disconnect at the pedal, pull out through firewall. There are clips that snap it into the firewall, they are a little tricky to get off.
    99 Escort sedan - Aquamarine frost metallic, 5-speed.
    99 Escort wagon - Zetec swap - Atlantic blue, automatic.
    97 Escort wagon - white - little old lady car

  13. #13

    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    379
    Points
    55,265
    Bank
    0
    Total Points
    55,265
    Donate  

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pextor View Post
    disconnect at the throttle body, disconnect at the pedal, pull out through firewall. There are clips that snap it into the firewall, they are a little tricky to get off.
    The firewall clip is the toughest part of the R & R. It's high up on the firewall tucked behind the dash so it's a pain to get a set of pliers up there to squeeze the clip. If you have the hand strength then I guess it wouldn't be so hard but it's in a hard to get to place so it's awkward at best. I removed the gas pedal and the drivers side seat to make it easier to maneuver around but even then it was a pain. I couldn't get a set of angled needle nose pliers up there so I took a wide flat blade screwdriver and pressed the bottom part of the clip through and then took a shorty flat blade and pushed out the top part of the clip. Again, lots of body contorting to get the leverage to be able to do it but it is doable.

    I couldn't find anyone selling them new so I used Darealls clean up method and it worked. Accelerator cable works again but I can tell it's not long for this world. I went to my local yard and found a low mileage Z and pulled the accelerator cable out of it so that the day mine dies I have a good replacement.

    John

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •