How to change your Throttle Position Sensor.
Step 1 Remove intake
Step 2 Locate the TPS
Step 3 Make sure the guy at parts store sold you the right part
Step 4 Unplug whatever gets in the way
Step 5 Remove the TPS
(I had to drill the TPS blots off and used power drill to break off the heads of the phillips screws. They were stuck for some reason and rounded off.)
Step 6 If your screws were stuck also and you popped off the head, Come up with a way to get the screws out. I bent the screw to be able to grip it better to therefore get it to rotate. (If came out easily Skip to 7)
Step 7 Install new TPS make sure to have it catch right by turning it a 1/4 turn clockwise then rotate into place. Re-plug everything you unplugged back in and re-install intake.
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My sensor reads a range of 16.5 to 96 % . Do I need to replace?
good write up.
lol kimberland battery "just like walmart/ sams club battery"
they still do the job but seeing for the first time...
----98 ATX with 99 Motor
soon to become mtx!! and i was away for a long time because i am trying to finish my vw's
FYI. It might be easier to remove the entire TB , and if you have access to a vise or some other clamp device. The best way I have found for removing the TPS without damaging the bolts or the TPS or TB is to remove the TB. Turn the TB on its side with the TPS facing up (make sure you support the bottom as not to snap off the butterfly or anything else) and firm press down as you back out the screw with a screw driver. If it is still fighting you . Get a soldiering iron. get it hot and rest it on the head of the screw for a minute or 2 . Then try again .
2000 Yellow S/R- , FZ racing header,Full ES kit, tinted tails, pnp intake mani, pnp tb, Focus armrest, 03 Radio dash kit, LED swap in gauges, Recessbilly's Yellow stitched ebrake boot and shift boot, Zxtuner CF hood, CF cowl, Progress STB, Fez PC'ed 98 vc with SPC, ES mounts, Mfactory LSD, sedan 5th gear, Fidanza LW Flywheel,R1 Cross drilled and slotted rotors, PC'ed Front and rear hubs, PC'ed Front and rear calipers, PC'ed trans mount, Cougar door switch conversion, Rota 16" grids, corksport shifter bearings
On its way or stored in my garage
03 front bumper conversion, ww kit,
03 Explorer Sport Trac XLT
On top of removing the TBV (good advice), I found that the reason the screws get "locked" in is the oxidization of the aluminum. Befor trying to unscrew them, I've gotten alot to back out easier if I douche it with PBB, then tap/hammer the tip of the screwdriver in the head if the screw. It's soft metal, and the hammering helps the PBB get into the threads, as well as seating your philips into the slots.
* Don't be afraid of hittin the sumbitsh like it stole your paycheck.![]()
I hate those damn screws. Mine got rounded off as well.
Do you know the size off the top of your head?
2000 Ford Escort Zx2
*BWAROOOOOOM* "Yeah, it's got a glasspack."
I've found the black-tipped screwdrivers fare better with these. Chrome ones strip them pretty well. I have a craftsman with magnetic bits that takes them out and the butterfly screws for further dissection![]()
You can grind a slot across the head with a dremel cut-off wheel and sink a flat-head screwdriver in there, also. Tap the handle of your screwdiver with a hammer while thescrewdriver is inserted into the screw head to break-up the aluminum oxidization.
I've said this before.
Never had a problem with mine.
2013 Toyota Tacoma V6 SR5 4X4 double cab long bed (daily driver and rescue vehicle for my racing team)
2000 ZX2 (The KLDE block/KLZE head hybrid V6)
1982 Suzuki GS1100L (when I want to be a badass)
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