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Thread: Throttle Position Sensor

  1. #1

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    Default Throttle Position Sensor

    How to change your Throttle Position Sensor.

    Step 1 Remove intake




    Step 2 Locate the TPS




    Step 3 Make sure the guy at parts store sold you the right part




    Step 4 Unplug whatever gets in the way




    Step 5 Remove the TPS




    (I had to drill the TPS blots off and used power drill to break off the heads of the phillips screws. They were stuck for some reason and rounded off.)




    Step 6 If your screws were stuck also and you popped off the head, Come up with a way to get the screws out. I bent the screw to be able to grip it better to therefore get it to rotate. (If came out easily Skip to 7)







    Step 7 Install new TPS make sure to have it catch right by turning it a 1/4 turn clockwise then rotate into place. Re-plug everything you unplugged back in and re-install intake.



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    My sensor reads a range of 16.5 to 96 % . Do I need to replace?

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    Are they knows to go? Whats your reasoning for replacing it?
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    good write up.

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    lol kimberland battery "just like walmart/ sams club battery"

    they still do the job but seeing for the first time...
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  6. #6
    iceracerdude's Avatar
    iceracerdude is offline Any idiot can go out there and mash their foot down...it's knowing when to lift!

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    Quote Originally Posted by 00zx2s/r View Post
    Are they knows to go? Whats your reasoning for replacing it?
    Northern Michigan Interpretation: Are they known for a high rate of failure? Why did you replace it, because I don't like the color of mine either!
    Last edited by iceracerdude; 08-24-2009 at 07:32 AM.

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    Default

    FYI. It might be easier to remove the entire TB , and if you have access to a vise or some other clamp device. The best way I have found for removing the TPS without damaging the bolts or the TPS or TB is to remove the TB. Turn the TB on its side with the TPS facing up (make sure you support the bottom as not to snap off the butterfly or anything else) and firm press down as you back out the screw with a screw driver. If it is still fighting you . Get a soldiering iron. get it hot and rest it on the head of the screw for a minute or 2 . Then try again .

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    On top of removing the TBV (good advice), I found that the reason the screws get "locked" in is the oxidization of the aluminum. Befor trying to unscrew them, I've gotten alot to back out easier if I douche it with PBB, then tap/hammer the tip of the screwdriver in the head if the screw. It's soft metal, and the hammering helps the PBB get into the threads, as well as seating your philips into the slots.

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    Quote Originally Posted by iceracerdude View Post
    Northern Michigan Interpretation: Are they known for a high rate of failure? Why did you replace it, because I don't like the color of mine either!
    WTF? Not even close in translation. You Fail my sir.

    Good Day

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    Quote Originally Posted by 00zx2s/r View Post
    WTF? Not even close in translation. You Fail my sir.

    Good Day
    Haha, I just read all posts in this thread and when I got to his michigan lingo I lost all direction. I was stumped, I knew that couldn't possibly be what you meant
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    I hate those damn screws. Mine got rounded off as well.

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    I've found the black-tipped screwdrivers fare better with these. Chrome ones strip them pretty well. I have a craftsman with magnetic bits that takes them out and the butterfly screws for further dissection
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    You can grind a slot across the head with a dremel cut-off wheel and sink a flat-head screwdriver in there, also. Tap the handle of your screwdiver with a hammer while thescrewdriver is inserted into the screw head to break-up the aluminum oxidization.

    I've said this before.

  14. #14

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    Never had a problem with mine.


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